BrianD

I am under the hood of my 98 Pathy preparing to change the passenger side valve cover gasket. It's leaking and it stinks of burnt oil after running great for 312,000 km's now. I've started to clean up around the valve cover and wires so I don't drop dirt into the engine & clean out the Phillips head screws so I can get the screw bit deep into the screws without stripping them. So...I'm trying to disconnect the plastic wire connectors that are pushed onto the brackets that are welded to the valve cover. The 1st one came off the cover easily and then I tried to separate the connector into 2 parts and snapped a pc of plastic off from the under of it. I DON'T want to break anything more if possible. I lukd thru the 4" thick factory service manual and there's nothing I can find on most of the questions below.. So my questions are: 1. How do I separate the plastic wire connectors from the brackets on the valve cover? 2. How do separate the male and female sides of the wire connections from each other without breaking them? ( the light grey ones near the firewall don't have the same release tab as the front ones) 3. It may be a stupid question but.. does the rubber hose at the back of the VC hold antifreeze? I think it's an oil vapour tube yes? 4. If I damage the rubber tubes at the front and back while removing them, can any type same size rubber hose be used as replacement or will I have to order them O.E.M.? I did get the O.E.M. VC gasket but NOT the rubber grommets/ washers cause they cost almost $7 each. 5. Was this a bad choice? 6. Do I need to apply gasket glue at installation? 7. What type shud I use? 8. Shud I be disconnecting the battery before doing this so I don't screw up the ECM? 9. Too many questions? I've already labelled the connectors a with black Sharpie so I don't misconnect ( is that a werd?) them. I wanna do this right the 1st time & I HOPE I don't have to do the driver's side. Thanx in advance.

My 98 has 310,000 km on it and no problems - if it ain't broke then don't fix it. jus sayin'

The can reads : 3 in 1 Professional Silicone Lubricant High Performance Lubrication Safe on metal, rubber, Wood and Vinyl Quick Drying, No mess Formula http://www.3inone.com/professional It's the Yellow and Black can I guess it's wet cause I wiped the runs off of the Vinyl cover when I was dun. truck doesn't stink no...and the belt returns better than ever. I WAS surprised when I cleaned the belt "hook" shoulder thing tho..It didn't look dirty but when I cleaned it anyway with a white rag it was WAAAY dirty. Kinda hard to get at the back of it - U'll figure out sumpthin' Gud Luk.

I've had this prolm too - I took out the retracter mech between the back doors at the floor - spooled out all of the seat belt - removed the pin from the end of the seat belt, then rewound it. ( as per one of our members suggested) and it seemed to work for a while) but it's back to being a pain in a**. I just had it out again to rewind it more but it's maxed out. So I cleaned the upper plastic belt / loop thing ( near your shoulder when sitting) & the lower plastic pc where the belt enters the retractor mech - then sprayed the entire belt with silicone spray - a LOT of silicone spray. It's never worked better. It retracts very quickly now! I'm gonna do the passenger side now too. I hope this may help U guys out there. Cheers!

When I 1st got my Pathy I saw the assembly was seized ( the"axle" was rusted solid)so I removed it and had it rebuilt with new brushes etc - I connected it to a 12 volt battery on my bench before re-installing it and it werkd fine. A buddy and I tried trbl shooting the switch and wiring but only got a few turns out of it b4 it quit again. I haven't tried anything since a few years ago now. The local Auto Electric place wants $95 and hour to look at it..shheesh! so it sits doon nuthin' till I can get sum advice on what to do next.Thanx man.

Ya man - I found later that the passenger door was a "c" hair from being open/ closed so that was prolly the cause of the alarm. Thanx for that. I saw sum guys with their broken new 1/2 shafts on line and have sum leads on what and where to buy them now - they said the same thing - thanx 2 x - The wiper motor has/ had voltage - a few years ago when we were working on it. I got it to turn a few times and that was it. Fuses were Ok - RELAYS? ..uhmm. I dunno 'bout that or where even to look. What is an FSM? Thanx 3x Cheers

I actually found that the passenger door was a "c "hair away from being closed/ open and that was prolly the cause of the alarm going off. Thanx As for the wiper - I had it turn a few times on me after replacing the brushes but that was the end of it working. There's a LOT of wires to trace - I suck at wiring. I had the switch out too I found nuthin obvious. Relay? UH.. fuses were also gud. What is a FSM? Thanx

The horn started blasting like someone was trying to break into my 98 Pathy just now but there was no one around. I was in my garage on feet away when it went off. I don't want it happening in the middle of the night or while I'm away from the vehicle. I opened the drivers door and the horn stopped beeping. I started it - no prolm. What now? Is it gonna start on fire?? I also need to replace both front drive shafts because the boots are torn. Any advice on the best replacement parts for the lowest cost? I rarely go off roading. I'm in Kitchener - near Toronto, Canada so I bleev shipping will be outta the question. Aaand while I'm at it - I nvr did find the prolm with the rear window wiper even tho I had it rebuilt. Suggestions pls and thanx.

UP DATE! I DID get the panel off and caused some damage BUT!!! I do wish to help anyone else that might have this prolm in the future - Open the outer handle best U can and spray some Realeasall or some kinda lube thru the small holes FIRST!!! before going thru all this BS! Mine might have opened properly if I'd done this cause all it needed was lube - NOTHING was broken or disconnected. Thanx guys for yer help.OH ya - I did get a "hook tool" from Princess Auto for $9 which helped me get the panel off with only one clip being slighted damaged.Pix later.

WOW! Thanx man! I haven't had time yet to go get the "hook tool" yet - but thanx for all that! The inner door handle on the "broken side" feels the exact same as the other side - same sound too! The rods are attached as well & the child lock is also off too! WTF? I may have to take U up on breaking the handle clips if nuthin' else werx. I don't wanna be climbing in there on my hands and knees every time I wanna load my drum kit - which is quite often. Gotta teach soon - maybe I can get the rad hose removal tool afterwards - nope it'll be too late - Tomorrow. but - THANX for all yer help and time - when I know more about this I'll post it. Cheers pal! What a great website!

YA well the only way to get behind the panel is with a rad hose removal tool like one guy said above. there's NO room to pry (without damaging the panel I shud add ) - I gotta get one today and see how that goes. Agreed - it only has to come out 1/2" until it goes up. And U can't remove the plastic..? Foot guard"? on the bottom of the door either cause it's gotta come up before U pull it out..and the door is in the way. But hey thanx eh? If u DOO remove the panel PLS! lemme know how it goes!

I have removed the cushion! - that's just to get room to work on it really. Prolm is getting ..anything!.. past the steel door lip & up under it so U can pry on the door panel - there's MAYBE 1/2 to 3/4" now installed properly and IF I can get retainers pulled out - there'll be no room between, but thanx - I'm gonna try the rad hose removal tool method ....when I get one. Thanks

SOOooooo.. I got the trim panel off the bolt under the arm rest and the weather stripping & there's NO WAY and panel removal tool will fit, or anything else I can find to pry the panel from the steel door - so even tho I pull on the door handle the panel ain't moving. I tried with a house hold prybar for removing wooden trim in there too - no way. I can't even get a screw driver in there to get the inner panel off. So ..how'd U get it off again? Thanx - Brian

Haven't got that far yet ..but - what do U mean the latch was bad? How so? Did a locking rod fall off? Did U have to replace the latch? Sorry for the rash but by remedy,do U mean, apply force on the outside while trying to open from the inside? Thanx for yer help.

Thanx man - Lukd at the other rear door and the child lock slider - removed a bit of the weather strip on the "broken" door and saw that it is in the unlockd position...and it SOUNDS like the inner handle is functioning properly. I gotta get someone to operate the driver's power door locks as I apply a shoulder.

How DOOO I get this door open to fix it? The exterior handle is "flopping in the wind" and interior handle seems normal. I can't remove the interior door panel with the door closed because it's tight against the rubber weather seal and the steel lip of the door frame that holds it. I removed the plastic parts around the interior handle and both rods are connected but I can't pull it out far enuff to look inside. Called the local Nissan service manager - he doesn't have a clue but offered to bring it in to look at for $100 an hour..DUH! Help me pls and thanx.

Thanx Old Timer but U can't remove the inner door panel when the door is closed - it's up against the steel door frame and rubber gasket. So removing the seat does nuthin'. Buuut..Anyone ever call Nissan about this? I will luk into the slim Jim - Cheers

My 98 pathy has the same prolm. The outside rear passenger door handle is "flopping in the wind" and the interior handle seems normal. I took the inner handle out of the panel as much as possible and the rods are still connected. WTF? It won't open and I can't remove the inner panel when the door is closed. How DOO I get this open so I can fix it? Any help appreciated. I load a lot of stuff in an out so it wud be just swell to have it werking again.

Great info! - I gotta do this soon - it's feeling sluggish when pressing the loud pedal - what plugs did U install? Anything I shud know about getting the wires off?..besides giving them a twist 1st? Do I need to get the special needle nose pliers for plug wires? Prolly shud change wires too - I'm almost at 300,000 km. Any suggestion on those? Where to get 'em cost? etc? Cheers!

WHAT is the " in the garage section the FSM?"

Hi guys - I was dis – assembling this thing and got to one of the 3 cross pipes that was rusted a bit – I hit it with a hammer and busted thru it – so it’s trash – thanx anyways

Thanx Lerch - where can I see/ get info on this thing? Maybe I can fab it up - or maybe I shud sell it? How much is it worth? Who manufactures this stuff? Cheers!