BrianD

I just spent over an hour posting pix to Photobucket, naming them with explanations, then wrote out a detailed post on my fix and posted 5 pictures and at the end of it all, it gave some stupid "can't use that file extention" message and then erased everything. too pissed off right now to explain that I fixed my Distributor/ misfire prolm.

Thanx again man - I was too busy to werk on it yesterday - Maybe today I can get'er dun. Cheers

Holy COW! man! Now I know I will NOT be driving it to my mechanic to get it fixed...cause it's crunching pretty badly. Hopefully I can get my distributor out of the engine without it disintegrating.....having those parts fall into the engine wud be a REALLY bad thing. I will try replacing the bearing and hopefully that will fix the random misfire in my truck too. Thanks for doon this - much appreciated! Cheers!

I hope this will finally be the answer to this yes...PITA prolm. Is it worth checking on a distributor machine? Thanx

Thanx Dislaugh - hahaha! Luv that name. so this had nothing to do with a misfire tho - correct? ..or did it? U changed it because of a bad bearing only right? I saw a video ( which I can't find now) where the electronics inside the distributor went bad because of excessive heat. Wud a bearing cause a misfire because it's not running true? and where did U find a bearing for this? Cheers

Sooo...I've been driving my Pathy for a month waiting for something to fail or the CEL light to come on but it has not...and the misfire has been getting worse. Today I stopped at a red light and it quit dead. It started right back up so I took it to my mechanic right away who hooked up his scanner and still no codes...but this time when I opened the hood we heard a crunching sound that wud come and go. It's coming from the distributor! So I HOPE I found the prolm. No time to werk on it. I found some used ones - $100 - $125 - $160 - new for $250 and a reman from Nissan at $677.44 + taxes. Your thots on which one to buy? Any advice pls and thanx. Cheers Brian

Thank you very much.. I'm in the middle of teaching so I can't watch it all right now - TTYL

IT'S BACK! I took it out yesterday and it was running great. Got on the highway and bit by bit the misfire returned. MF!! Cud it possibly be the alternator not producing enuff juice when under load for long periods? I'm now stumped as to what to look for - I've already checked just about everything I can think of. I might try taking out the plugs one at a time and look there. I dunno. So why why why? did it go away after removing the relay switch? Is that sum sorta clue as to what's going on? Shud I look again at the interior driver door light switch? What the hell? Any suggestions? Thanx Brian

UPDATE - PROBLEM SOLVED! - It dawned on this morning that my driver's door interior lights stop working about 3 weeks ago when this prolm started. The on/off interior light switch is located at the bottom right of the door frame. When I'd open the door there was a click coming from a DVD player that was installed when I bought the truck. I dropped it from the ceiling and in a mess of wires was this little black box - I lukd it up and it's a relay that draws between 20- 30 amps. http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332209150.asp I took it out of the wiring harness and drove it up the highway with the wires hanging from the ceiling. Voila! No mis-fire! Not once did I ever use the the damn thing anyway. Thanx for all your help. Cheers Brian

Thanx - I found a guy who will let me borrow his scanner. I thot my laptop has Bluetooth but no & I don't have a super phone or android.. anything. Sooooo..having nvr used a scanner before I don't know what I shud do with it..besides plugging it in and reading the screen. I've seen my mechanic scroll thru different screens on his. I guess I'll just do the same until something pops out at me? Cheers

Thanx man - I was thinking of getting one of these.. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool I'll take my laptop out and see what's happening...I hope to use it while on the highway - yer thots? https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EMB3B9G3G2H5VJZ65ZTE It states it werx btr than the cheaper ones and it's only $25!

Thanx - I will look into that - Cheers.

Sorry for being a noob with this ...but How do I look for a misfire count? A friend mentioned a vacuum leak - wud that be just a visual inspection or is there more I can do? Again..Sorry man..Noob! How do I ..do the fuel trim...uh thing? I've Nvr heard of it. This misfire prolm comes and goes and never when it's standing still. & Yes - now am trying to Avoid to playing the parts replacement game. Thank You. I appreciate your help. I also sprayed every connector that I cud find with WD 40 too..no change. Shud I take each connector apart? - I've got this spray stuff called Termin 8R corrosion protection that is pink and bubbles on contact and it werx it's way into the smallest places. A waste of time? Thanx again. Cheers

My 98 pathfinder started missing occasionally when on the highway. It misses more when U have your foot into it under load but runs perfectly in town at slow speed. The CEL was not on and no codes. We cudn't duplicate the prolm in the parking lot in drive at 2200 rpm with my foot on the brakes. I mentioned that I'd changed plugs..except #6 ( it got dark last year so I nvr got it finished) so I finally changed that one. No change. Then changed the cap, rotor and new NGK plug wires(It's got 320,000 km so it was time anyway)..no change BUT now the CEL is on which shows the crank sensor. I cud NOT get my arm/ hand up in there while in my driveway. Took it back to my mechanic with new $75 sensor in hand. He found that the wires were pulled out off the sensor plug and repaired them. ..how that wud happen? I have no idea cause it's waaay up there. So I nvr installed the crank sensor seeing that was the cause. Drove it today and it's still not fixed. No CEL either. I'll check for codes again IF the CEL comes back on. It seems like the ignition is breaking down when it misses - when I let off the gas a bit, it goes a away for a while? DUH?! Cud it be a fuel prolm? Where do I look? Where's the solution? Just added some BG44K and a full tank of gas. Gonna see if it's a sticky injector. Has anyone ever changed a crank sensor on a vg33 and if so, how do U get at it? I'm afraid if I break it off while removing it I'll have to pull the transmission! He says they don't always want to co-operate when they are that old. Don't think I need to change it now anyways. Any suggestions on a solution will be appreciated. I haven't got the bill yet but I'm sure it won't be cheap cause he had to comb the wreckers for similar plugs to find one that wud work. PS - I did change a leaky fuel filter about a month ago but it's was running just fine after that. Anyone have a similar prolm? Help pls.

Ya man - I that's it! I thot there was a short pc that was bolt on to hold the motor mount. Lux like I'll be welding plates into it again. I called a guy who does amazing work with steel and a welder. He builds award winning hot rods from the ground up. $100 k and more. He won't work on my vehicle..says they are too much a PITA to work on.? Pardon? Last time I used thin cardboard( tip: the last "page " from a 8 1/2" x 11" pad of paper werx great!) to make templates then transferred the outline onto 3/16" plate steel..then cut the plate with a sawzall..welded a bunch of plates into it. I did in the summer in my driveway - I don't have a garage I can get it into to do this. I'm worried about catastrophic failure and crashing. I can hear snap crackle pop when pull into my driveway. The last time I fixed it my mechanic said it was a $1200 job. I bleev him cause it took me over 2 days to do it. I only found the prolm cause the right front brake line failed. It'd be great to do a frame off resto - ppl wud think I'm nuts to spend $10,000 or more if i did it, but I really like this Pathy. Lux like I'll be using my mig again after I find a garage to do it in. Thanx for your help! Cheers

Thanx man - no I've already welded plates on top of those to fix that area of rust.

Yesterday I took my 98 Pathy to the mechanic to find the source of a front end/ steering wheel wobble at 80 km/ 50 mph. under torque and again when I slow down. We found that my frame was rusted out where the front lower control arm/ A arm and the ???? motor mount support bracket/ arm ? (passenger side) are attached at the rear( if that makes sense). Both the frame and the ? support? are rusted thru and have movement when a pry bar is used with some force. I looked thru the giant Service manual for the name and picture of the part with no luck. It's minus F-off outside so I don't really wanna crawl under to take a picture..and it's pretty hard to see where the problem is as well. It's hidden well from view which is why I nvr caught it sooner. I saw that the engine mount is bolted both ends so I'm assuming I cud get one from the wreckers. Does anyone know what this part is called? EVER changed one? At any rate it's not safe and if it let's go, I'll be headed for the rhubarb. I'm thinking ..why cudn't I just weld both the frame and mount with steel plates? I don't think I'm ever gonna remove this ?? engine support bracket ever anyways. I don't wanna buy another vehicle over this one prolm..but it's not safe. It's got 317,000 + km and everything still works great. Your Thots?

My 98 Pathy steering problem started last year. When driving the steering wheel wud get fairly hard to turn to do minor adjustments to keep it in the hiway lanes. I asked my buddy who used to work for MOOG & teach front end geometry about it. He came over and after some head scratching he said let's start with a fluid change/ flush of the power steering pump. Using a turkey baster I removed as much fluid from the pump as I cud and did a flush using some ?? power steering flush stuff ( i don't remeber what the name was now). That helped the prolm but the steering has always been a bit stiff. Recently when driving it wud seem like the steering wud Freeze SOLID for a moment and was freaking me out as U might imagine. Took it to my mechanic - did a bunch of tests to analyze what the source prolm is. More head scratching and decided it was the pump - got one from the auto wreckers - installed it - NO CHANGE! DOH! Then we disassembled the steering box and steering column U joints. The U joint on the end of the steering column is quite crunchy so he now wants to change it. I'm not so sure about that and can't believe the power steering can't over power the little bit of crunchy resistance in the U joint. The strut bearings aren't making any noise & there was new ball joints installed a few years ago. It's supposed to go back in tomorrow to get this prolm fixed ( and now the one exhaust pipe blew out Saturday nite). So far 4 hours was spent on this and $80 for a used pump with no fix. I Don't wanna change the rack and get no satisfaction. - So far $$$$ spent and prolm hasn't been fixed. PLEASE if anyone has a solution what this might be, let me know yer thots ASAP - Please!. Brian

NO ONE responded to my questions -NA DA - I got it finished in 2 hrs.

I just got 1 hose that U cut to fit both ends of the passenger side Valve cover. Nissan wants $70 for these 2 hoses. The one at the rear is 6" x 1" x 5/8" I.D. The front is a 90 degree elbow and is 4" x 1" x 5/8" I.D. Get AC DELCO part #16198M - or GM# 88907438 - same part ..2 numbers. It's whopping $10.10 which will do both. You are welcome.

I just got 1 hose that U cut to fit both ends of the passenger side Valve cover. Nissan wants $70 for these 2 hoses. The one at the rear is 6" x 1" x 5/8" I.D. The front is a 90 degree elbow and is 4" x 1" x 5/8" I.D. Get AC DELCO part #16198M - or GM# 88907438 - same part ..2 numbers. It's whopping $10.10 which will do both. You are welcome.

Where did U get these parts at that price? - the 2 that I need for the passenger side, Kitchener Nissan wants $70.00! part # 118260W005 rear and 118260P000 for the front.

I just priced the 2 evap/ vacuum hoses for this passenger side valve cover - $70!!!! Where can I get them for less? help! I bleev the part numbers are 11826 +A and 11826 +C

On the video at the 3:40 area he shows " once U get all the wires outta the way" ! YA ..how DID U get the those wires outta the way? Hhmmmm? Show me how U disconnected those from the valve cover wudja? haha