Slartibartfast
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Posts posted by Slartibartfast
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universal joint
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Lightning round
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push rod
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^ That's a good idea! I didn't know slow-blow blade fuses were a thing.
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Yeah, I haven't heard of it happening, but figured it might be worth mentioning. My cheap OBDII scanner shows live data (no graphing or anything special) and pending codes.
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If the computer is pulling timing, it's probably got a reason. I would start with the scanner, live data and codes.
Only other thing I can think of is if it's jumped timing. I wouldn't expect a chain to do that, but I do remember reading about some chain guide issues on the 4.0. I don't know the VQ, but the 2UZ-FE in my dad's Yota ran poorly with the belt one tooth off, and not at all two teeth off. (A mouse found its way into the timing cover, and had a Very Bad Time inside.) Threw a cam sensor code IIRC.
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knock sensor
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LOL, reminds me of the stereo that was in mine when I got it. The faceplate motored open to reveal the CD slot, which would've been kinda neat if the faceplate didn't run into the shifter, strain for a moment, and then close again.
I think I saw someone a while back who moved the HVAC controls down to where the head unit used to be, and somehow put the double-din up above. Might've deleted the middle vents to make it work? Must've been a square-dash. Better spot for the screen, but probably more work than it's worth.
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Looked better tucked into the hole IMO but I imagine the neck makes it easier to read and reach the screen. How's that pivot locked? Looks like something that could start working its way down after a few good bumps.
I kept mine simple, basic single-din HU that I can plug an ipod into. I spend enough time swearing at touchscreens when I'm not driving. When I need maps, I just stick my phone in the ashtray.
+1 for Dire Straits, though.
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Coolant temperature
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Banned for being the same age as me!
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Banned for assuming I'm old enough to get junk mail from AARP!
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micro controller
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There was no info in the post, just pictures. Looks close to the same width as the top of the fender, though.
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Yeah, I think the group got set to private at some point. Here's a screenshot of the finished product.
I like that Flatout kit. A friend of mine used plastic lawn edging for flares on his S10 Blazer. It was cheap and quick, and it does keep the mud off the sides of the truck. It does however look like plastic lawn edging.
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No aftermarket ones that I'm aware of, but a guy on the Farcebook page (what are the chances that link actually works?) made up a set a while ago. Looks like sheet metal and tubing, pretty simple. Also looks like the guy has a pet monkey.
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Sounds like junk to me then. I'd be surprised if you got more than the core charge out of it.
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fair game
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Banned for making me feel as old as him!
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If you're throwing a computer at it without knowing for sure that the old one is the problem, might be worth keeping it, or at least stalling on sending it back, until you're sure the old one is in fact roached. If it is verified junk, send it in as a core and let someone else deal with it. I doubt anyone but the rebuilder is looking for a blown up computer for a '98 Pathfinder.
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Banned for watching old Dukes of Hazzard re-runs instead!
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fever dream
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Banned for suggesting time is exponential!
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The fuse links are intentionally undersized. That's what makes them the weak link, so they burn up before the harness does. Looks like they're usually four sizes smaller than the wiring they interrupt, which matches your observation that a wire which should be 12ga to take the rated amps appears to be 16ga.
Blade fuses would be more convenient, but might be tricky to size properly. They don't work the same as fuse links. Fuse links are slow-blow. A blade fuse might pop for brief overloads that the fuse link never noticed, and if you fixed this with a bigger fuse, it might not fail for a lower-but-sustained overload that would've taken out the fuse link. I'm not saying that it can't be done, or that it would definitely change the failure point enough to matter (surely it's not on a knife's edge if they trusted it to fuse links in the first place), but I don't know how far I'd trust it.
I've never had to replace a fuse link on mine, so I'm inclined to leave well enough alone. If I was going to reengineer them, I like your idea with the screw terminals. Make sure you get the special fuse link wire, sounds like its got special insulation so it doesn't start a fire when it blows.
Another new forum game - 2 words
in Off-Topic
Posted
war effort