Slartibartfast
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Posts posted by Slartibartfast
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Huh. Now that I'm looking closer at the kits, yeah, those are just spacers! I had assumed that they were entire mounts. That makes it easy then! Especially if they offer a 50mm option.
There's all kinds of good info in the service manual, but yeah, they don't make it easy sometimes.
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Aftermarket body lifts replace the rubber body mounts with thicker ones. Nissan lifted the 4WD D21's cab by modifying the body mount brackets on the frame. This thread on Infamous has pictures showing the difference. The 4WD D21 brackets sweep up, while the WD21 and 2WD D21 brackets sweep down. The bushings themselves are the same (I confirmed one of them by part number). I have not confirmed that the D21 cab and WD21 body have the same spacing from the top of the bushing to the floor, but I don't see why they wouldn't, so I am assuming that they do, and that the difference in body height is entirely due to the brackets on the frame.
Finding the height difference of those brackets took longer than I expected, but as usual, the service manual had the goods. All info below is from the BF section of the '95 service manual. I did not cross-check this information against other years because I've already spent far too much time in this rabbit hole and I would very much like to come out now.
The BF section has coordinate measurements for a bunch of different points on the frame, including the body mounts. Each point has an X, Y, and Z value. I'm not sure what sets the zero point for the Z axis, but I know it's in the same place on either frame, because the front-suspension droop-stop bumper holes and the compression rod mounts match perfectly. (The front shock mounts do not, but neither do the part numbers for the shocks, so I guess that's just a D21 quirk that I was not aware of.) This means that we can directly compare the height of the body mounts between the two frames. I'll spare you the math--each one of the 4WD D21's cab mount points is exactly 50mm higher than the corresponding mount points in the WD21 and 2WD D21.
In freedom units, that's 1.96".
TL;DR: the D21 ARB bumper should fit a 2" body-lifted WD21.
And yes, a body lift would leave a gap over the rear bumper, but you could fix that pretty easily. Slice the brackets, lift the bumper 2", weld the brackets back together. Even if you half-ass the welding, they'll still be stronger than the bumper they're bolted to.
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The sealed-beam D21 grille and corner lights are no different in size than their WD21 counterparts. The D21's bumper matches up to its body the same as the WD21's bumper matches up to its body. The D21 bumper sits higher off the frame because the body does, too. So your options are raising the body to match the D21 bumper (which I know you don't want to do), or lowering the bumper to match the WD21 body.
B posted some pictures of the mounts on his WD21 ARB, which should give you an idea of what you're up against. The top mounts look pretty easy to work with, but those lowers would need some thought. All things are possible with a welder, provided you don't mind cutting up a brand new $1100 bumper, and provided you're confident that your mods will be strong enough to take a winch. Take pictures if you do. I've read posts like this one saying that it should be possible, but I don't remember seeing anyone actually do it.
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Finally found where I stashed the other two! Unfortunately they were in the junk switches bag, because they both have busted rocker pivots. So that's disappointing. PM me if you're still interested in the dimmer/defrost/hazard switches, and if you want I'll throw in what's left of the other two. Might be good guinea pigs for trying disassembly methods if nothing else.
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I found the dimmer, hazard, and defrost switches in my stash. I know I pulled the cruise and EAT switches, but they are currently hiding from me. I'm tied up the next few days but will have another look later, see if I can track down the missing ones.
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I'll check my stash. I know I've got at least some of those, and no use for them as mine's got the square dash.
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Invisible ink
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That Trail'd can is a cool idea. Their site says in a few places that their cans are for water, not fuel, though that may be an EPA thing rather than a materials thing. That said, I'd be a little nervous about suspending twelve gallons of gasoline over the road in a container it's not supposed to be in by a single chain hooked to a twenty-year-old hoist designed to raise and lower a spare tire. A secondary strap or even a skid plate to catch it if it falls would make me feel a lot better about it. And, yeah, accessing those in wet weather would not be a good time, though I don't imagine you get much of that in AZ.
If you're planning to use the extra fuel often, I would consider mounting a permanent tank in that space instead. You might find a writeup somewhere like Expedition Portal, or wherever the Cannonball guys hang out. You might look at how Ford did it, too--they built a lot of dual-tank trucks, and I'm told some of them even worked right. Trouble is, the dual-tanks I've seen have a second filler neck, and I'm guessing you'd rather not attack your quarter panel with a hole saw. There's probably a way around this. Whether it's less work than fetching cans from under the truck, I don't know.
Whichever method you go with, I would come up with a heat shield between the fuel tank and the muffler, and consider installing a trailer hitch (if you don't have one already) to protect the fuel tank from a rear-end collision. I doubt the unibody was designed to protect the spare tire the way it would've been to protect a fuel tank.
8 hours ago, Strato_54 said:I was looking at the Viair Quarter Duty kit on amazon. Still have to meassure and make sure everything will fit properly for that kit, but it should at only a 1.5 gallon tank.
I'll bet the tank off one of those oilless pancake compressors would fit in there real nice.
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Is there a screen on a solenoid, maybe? I haven't had a solenoid out of one of these, but IIRC the solenoids in my friend's 4L60E had screens to keep junk out of them.
I would write down the instructions for the blinky-lights OBD and keep that in the truck so it's handy the next time it acts up. Figuring out what it's actually upset about could save a lot of guesswork.
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What sort of play? Rotating, radial? Either way, I wouldn't expect it to only act up on decel. How's the oil level/condition in the rear end?
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The filter's not ringing any bells for me, but the AT section of the manual should show it somewhere if it's supposed to be serviceable.
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Overfilled fluid could do it. The fluid level rises as the transmission warms up, so if the fluid's on the high side normally, a little extra heat could get it high enough to get air whipped into it and make the hydraulics act funny, which makes the computer think the sky is falling. Make sure you check it with the transmission warmed up, otherwise it'll read wrong. I overfilled mine by about a quart by believing the dipstick when it was cold.
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I doubt the oil leaks are related. Any codes? If you can't get transmission codes through the OBDII, there is a workaround using the old blinky-lights OBD. The diagnostics for that start on AT-48 in the '03 manual. I don't know if they're like the WD21 where they only store the code for one drive cycle, hopefully not. The "judgement flicker" setup is a bit of a PITA, might be worth a try, though. Once you know what it's upset about, you can track down why.
Any issues with the engine temp?
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Worth a shot, I guess. Let us know if it feels different afterwards.
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You're in for the same job as a body lift, minus the supporting mods to the fan shroud and fuel filler (though you may want to loosen those so you're not yanking anything when you jack up the body). I haven't done one, but from what I've read here, there's not much to it. Given how little you'll need to lift the body to slip the mounts out, you may not need to remove the front bumper brackets. The steering shaft may still put up a fight. It would be a good idea to have new bolts on hand, or at least have a plan for where to get them, in case the old ones do not come out politely or are otherwise not good enough to reuse.
Are the existing mounts collapsed?
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I do like that gen of patrols! You can keep the mud, though.
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Frenchy, I believe you are confusing our early fuel injection with more sophisticated modern systems.
Modern vehicles use wideband oxygen sensors, which allow their computers to dial in any air/fuel mixture they want, so they can stay in closed loop all the time (once the sensors are warm, anyway). These older rigs use narrowband oxygen sensors, which are useless* for any mixture but stoich (around 14.7:1). The narrowband can't even see stoich--it can only report rich or lean, so the computer bounces the mixture back and forth between them in a zigzag that averages out to stoich. This means these rigs can only run in closed loop for light acceleration and cruising. In any other conditions, they fall back to open loop, and run on stored values.A while back I added LEDs to my dash that mirror those on the back of the computer, and running the computer in one of the first two test modes lets me monitor the operation of the oxygen sensor while I'm driving. The green light flashes with the oxygen sensor when the system is in closed loop. I only ever see the green light flash under light-to-moderate throttle. Under heavy throttle or engine braking, the light does not flash. The light does not flash at idle, either, though I have seen it continue to flash briefly after the engine has returned to idle following closed-loop operation. I assume idle (even warm idle) is set a little on the rich side, and as such cannot be monitored with a narrowband sensor.
(*There may be a little more going on here than I'm giving the system credit for. One of the test modes is supposed to tell you if the mixture is more than a certain percentage rich or lean in closed loop, and hell if I know how it's working that out from a sensor that only reads 0 or 1. Nissan may have done something clever to squeeze a little more data out of these primitive sensors, but clearly they were not able to get wideband performance out of a narrowband sensor.)
Anyway, Teesetz, good to hear it's back on good behavior, and good luck tracking down any residual gremlins.
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Wrong fuel pressure, unmetered air, and 30-year-old EFI that doesn't monitor the mixture at idle. Yeah, that makes sense.
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I would never have called that being the problem! I'm guessing the incorrect fuel pressure was throwing off the idle mixture, which threw off the idle speed, and the computer ran out of adjustment trying to fix this and went to high idle. Still not sure why electrical loads calmed it down. In any case, good work finding it! Hopefully the issue stays gone.
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Sounds like the slide pins are seized. The caliper's supposed to float from side to side so it wears the pads evenly. Once that's sorted, I'd look up the spec for endfloat on that axle to hopefully rule out the clips being damaged from the last guy driving it like that for who knows how long before scrapping the truck.
The nice thing about (most) domestic rigs is parts availability. I remember someone on here having a hell of a time trying to find a flywheel for a VQ/manual R50.
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atomic monsters
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C clip rear end? Some play is normal, don't know about 1/4" though. Never heard of one oscillating like that. My best guess is a warped or bent brake rotor, or debris/rust making the rotor sit wonky on the axle. Or the axle itself is bent, that would do it.
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alarm clock
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If it's not isolated to the headlights, then tracing the headlight circuit might be less useful than I hoped. I would expect the alt to struggle more with the lights on than it does with them off, but I'd be curious to see battery voltage at idle, loaded and unloaded, when it's acting up vs when it's not.
Was your defroster on when you heard it idle up on its own? The auto HVAC system kicks in the aircon when the defroster's running to dehumidify the air. Could be the compressor cycled and that's what made it idle up. It's been a while since I had working aircon in mine, so I don't remember how much it's supposed to idle up for that, but I don't think it was that high. I don't think the manual HVAC does that.
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