wd21overland
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Posts posted by wd21overland
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I had to use a decent size Hydraulic press to replace mine but a torch would also make easy work of it.
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Custom built from a friend
He should sell those lol very nice.
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Do the F350 shocks bolt right on? I got some F150 shocks and had to push the bushing out the bottom and use the nissan bushings from my old shocks because the lower mount hole on the F150 shocks was too small.
Also do you go with a heavy duty bronco II shock in the front? I would think that a shock in the front from a compact truck the size of ours and a shock for a 1 ton truck in the back would be quite unbalanced.
James
The rear shocks did need to have the bushings swapped out took me about 1 min with a vice.
As for the shock don't look at what vehicle they go on these f-350 rear shocks cross refrences to 11 different vehicles most of them were suv's(example rancho list the same part# for a stock rear f-350 shock as it does for a 90's ford explorer with there 2" lift kit)same shock used for different applications) i used the f-350 as an example since thats the first one is cross refrenced with.
As for the shock being balanced the shocks are great and wouldn't have it any other way.
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Man that is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Thanks so much!!! Excellent information, and I can get the shocks for those vehicles I believe for even cheaper than the original pathfinder shocks, perfect. I would buy you a beer if I could man you just saved me a bunch of $$.
Also just to be clear I use the front Bronco II shocks on the front of the pathy, and the rear f350 shocks on the rear of the pathy, correct?
Yep that will work perfect.
And since there ford most of the local auto parts stores at least around me always have them in stock.
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I've went down this path and looked into every shock length from any vehicle a nice thing to have is the shock length chart from monroe.com it list every shock they make its part number and its compressed and extended length along with what its mounting whole size is.
But to help you out rear shock from a 1995 ford f350 are the perfect length for a 3" lift pathy. There extended length is exactly 3" longer then the paths stock shock and its compressed is only .25" shorter so you dont loose any compress length so you get the full 10" of travel now up from the 7.1" from the stock path.
As for the front the stock shock extended length is 14.7" with my rough country control arms up front and ultra low upper bump stop it max's out at 15" on the do so if you have regular or lower profile bumpstop stock length might work for you if your like me i went with front shock from a 1986 ford bronco II there the same compressed length but there 15.2" extended to make use of the ultra low pro bump stop you wont need any longer then that since you cv's with be maxed.
SO to wrap it up 1995 for f-350 rear shock (F150 rear shock from the same year might be the same length but i know the f-350 is the right length)
And 1986 ford bronco II up front i went with bilstein shock all around and love them and have had no issues at all.
Also i know some places already list 3" lift shock for are pathfinder put when you look at the extended length there only 1.5" more or else so i like the route i went better.
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thanks for the info...i am going with the 10.5
Not sure which brand your looking for but i run BFG at ko the best place i have found to get the tire at a decent price and in stock is
http://tirecrawler.com/shop/detail_tire.php?product_id=5694
Tire is $155 and it was $18 per tire shipping so right at $173 a tire
Discount tire is about $184
Tirerack was about $196
If you have a 4wheel parts close to you you might find it cheaper there but with shipping its more for me.
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Also not sure it it matters my pathy didn't come with fender flares or mud flaps.
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3.75
so your 33x10.5...would they rub with just the SL
No my 33x10.50 didn't rub before my body lift.
The 12.50's rubbed on the tension rod mount on the frame the height of the 33's didn't pose much issue it was just the width.
My wheels are the same backspacing as yours.
Also the main reason i went with 10.50 over 12.50 was i didn't want it to have a chance to rub and also tire weight so save what little mpg i can.
My 33x12.50 were 57 pounds each where my 10.50 were 45lbs each and i could tell the difference big time when i swapped size even though they were the same height.
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When i tried installed 33x12.50 with just a 3 SL it rubber like crazy.
After i install my body lift i had no issues but i now run 33x10.50 since i can't stand the look of the 12.50's.
What's the back spacing you have on the rims your wanting to use since that will be a major factor.
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Let me look into on the part numbers when i get to work.
I just used the whole engine and tranny from the xterra so there wasnt alot of swapping i had to due but i'll get you a anwser on the oil pump.
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I'll gather all my stuff notes, pics and write-ups from my my old external hard drive and post them for you in a few.
I did a right up about a year ago when i installed a 2000 xterra vg33 and xterra auto trans.
The whole process took about a week to do but that was mainly becuase i had another DD to drive and was working alot of hours that week.
If you can find a 98-02 frontier or 00-02 xterra for a parts vehicle it will make everything much easier.
I found a 00 xterra that has been rear ended hard for $800 and had it towed to my house.
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As precise suggested i got it to fit by removing the bracket and and just bending the heck out of the other bracket down but now it fits securely.
It's pretty close to the hood but there's no contact.
On the plus side i plan on getting a snorkel one day and the two i have looked at both require the stock airbox to connect to.
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So I installed a common Cone air filter style intake a while back to try and free up a few horses.
But after going wheeling today with a few of my friends a buddy took a waterhole in his xterra to quick and soak his cone filter and hydro lock his engine which is the same style filter as mine.
So i decided to throw the stock airbox back on so went and bought a new k&n filter and went to install the box and it wouldnt fit at all.
Looks like with the 3" body lift on now the air box sits to high up now and i can't even get the hose back onto the maf.
SO just wondering if people that have a 3" body and the stock air box if you needed to modify it at all i took the air box brackets off and just had the air box sit on the fender and it still wasnt low enough to get the hose back on.
If worst comes i will just modify the box to make it fit.
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a 91 Pathfinder is going to have 27 spline hubs. They did the switch to 28 in 1993 or 1992.5. Same time they changed the centerlink business.
Also, the only different between a D21 and a WD21, is a bunch of glass and sheet metal. All the mechanicals are pretty much the same. At least your issue was simple! I was going to suggest that you probably don't have all of your old auto hub removed.
That's completly wrong i have a 92 and a 90 and there both 28 splines.
Also the factory service manual shows 90 and up to have 28 splines.
Now keep in mind that it has to have the V6 in the early 90's to get the 28 splines 90 to 93 4 cyclinder hardbodys that were 4wd did have 27 splines.
Also here are a few sites to show that.
http://www.milemarker.com/pdf_downloads/hubs_appchart.pdf
http://www.warn.com/truck/hubs/premium_application_chart.shtml
http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-wd21-r50-manual-hubs-c-38_39.html
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I smack mine every time i go into my garage lol. But with 6" of lift and 33's now i'm only about 2 inches from the roof rack hitting it anyway.
I think that why the wife wants me to get a roof basket because she knows once its on i can't fit into the garage so its all her's lol.
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Never mind i just read your first post where you stated you have part# 430 which is only for the older 27 spline 86 to 89 pathys.
Those will never fit you need part# 435 which is for all 90 and up pathfinders, terranos and hardbodys that have 28 spline shafts.
Here's a link to the mile marker application chart that shows yours is that wrong one for your year.
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Here's the write up i used.
It's for a warn hub but there no difference at all between the 2 on install.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1405&st=0
Should take you a max of 30 minutes to do.
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yeah i have the randomly locking locks also when its cold out and it sucks but im way to lazy to tear rear panels off and looks for it. to bad that part is so spendy from the dealer i would just get a new one
Mine did the same thing and was also the door lock timer.
The part is extremely is to get. In the back remove the drivers side access cover in the the hatch and put your hand in behind where the speaker is the unit right there.
There (1) 10mm bolt holding it in you wont be able to see the bolt but very easy to feel and remove took about 5 minutes and no more issues.
I just picked up a junk yard one so if it goes out again i'll just buy new.
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Oddly i just did this last week.
Now i only did the drivers side and never looked to see if the vehicle had passenger heated seats also.
Thanks to nissan wanting to keep the different wiring harness to a minimum everything is ran already.
All i needed was the seat, console switch and install the fuse in the fuse panel it will be marked heated seat.
The wiring for the switch is there it was just taped up on the harness.
Also if you don't feel like getting a seat or cant find one that matches courtsey auto parts does sell the heated seat pads still and just have to remove the seat covers and install the pads there very sticky on one side so fits nicely on the cushion.
Oddly alot of foreign vehicles have alot of cloth heated seats but never caught on in america our old Volvo and Bmw had heated cloth seats i really prefer heated cloth over leather you dont stick to the seats when its on and there no down fall in the summer.
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I help a buddy to his awhile back it not hard to do at all really but i would highly recommend finding a donor manual trans vehicle with a blown engine or crash so you can easily walk over to it and get the parts you need. But if none can be found to junkyard will work fine just alot of trips.
On a side note *** Make sure to keep all the bolts you take out at the junkyard since most hardware stores don't have the right thread pitch to buy if you forget bolts.***
Here's a link to his build thread it has everything you need and also has pics.
http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/931602833/m/52110051241/p/1
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a 3+3 allows you to run 33x12.50's.
but like Simon said, depends on the back spacing of your wheel as to just how well they will fit. 33x10.50's fit at stock height on Lego's so I imagine 33x11.50's will do just fine with your lift if you're running the stock SE lego wheel.
Currently i'm running Stock 16" 1995 Honda Passport rims there offset is -5 so right at about 3.75 so i should have no issues.
Here is what the rims look like.
I have alot of friends that have 4runners and its the main rim they use due to great offset and very easy to find in the junkyard.
I ordered the 285/75R16 tires so they will be here in a few days.
Also i quit using 15" rims since Treadwright.com doesn't sell 33x12.50R15 and since finding the site i will never pay more then $125 for some 33's lol.
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Just wondering who is run 285/75R16 on there pathfinder and what backspacing they have on there rims.
I currently running 265/75R16 with a 3" body and 3" suspension lift and there tons of room.
Just wanting to see who is currently running that size.
There basically 33 x 11.50 size.
Here is a link to what i'm looking at.
https://www.treadwright.com/p-55-285-75r16-guard-dog-m-t-d.aspx
I love treadwright i have been using them for 4 years now and cant beat the price no matter what $550 for all 4 tires to my door.
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Hello,
Since i've added my body lift and 33's i would like to install the factory fender flares on my pathy to give me alittle more tire coverage.
My question is there a difference in the fender flares from a 90-92 and 93-95 pathfinders.
I was told that the fenders change slighty from 93-95 along with the bumpers but not sure if that affected the flares.
I also was told i can use the front hardbody flares also just not the rear of course.
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This isn't really true though. What will happen is your rear wheels will spin for a revolution or so before the autohubs engage, then you will be in 4wd. Now, whether or not you will make up it the hill I don't know, but the hubs should engage.
I've found that to not be true at all.
The auto hubs require forward momentum once you put it in 4wd for them to engage.
If your stuck on a icy hill and not able to gain traction( i.e. stuck or sliding backwards some) if you put it in 4wd your front wheels will never be able to lock unless your able to move forward some where as manual hubs are ready to go.
It says in the owners manual it can take up to 3 ft for the front auto hubs to engage.
For a quick example i can take my wife's bone stock wd21 pathfinder with auto hubs on the lift and put it in 4wd the front wheels wont spin unless i rotate the front wheel forward and it will engage.
skid plates
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
From the Factory you should have a Gas Tank Skid Plate , Small Front skid plate, and A transfercase skid plate that bolts on the transfercase.
As for aftermarket 4x4parts.com Makes a really nice heavy front skid plate but thats it.
There's no company that i'm aware of that makes any other skid plate for the wd21 pathfinder which sucks since i would really like a oil pan skid plate.