wd21overland
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Posts posted by wd21overland
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Being that there both 4x4s theres just one little diffrence, chevy 3/4 tons from that era are 8 lug.
Thats true but they do have 2500 4x4 in that era that are 6 lug with light duty package and 8 lug with heavy duty package.
Not all 2500 were 8 lug same goes for the 88+ chevy truck era you can get a 6 lug 2500 with light duty package.
I used to work on them all the time at the chevy dealership most of the telphone repair trucks were 2500 with light duty package 6 lugs(Heavy duty springs and axxles but still 6 lug.
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How big of a tank are you planning to install i have pics from a Austrailian Site that install a 5 Gal air tank on the passenger side under the rear seats basically opposite of the exhaust so they could bolt it up high so it wouldn't get damaged.
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The closet nissan dealer to me has been there for 40 years at least it seems and i don't think they ever get rid of anything so they had the connectors for me when i broke the water temp sensor connector.
I think it was about $3 so you can check there or auto parts store.
If all else fails a normal female connector will work i just use the ones with heat shrink on them to keep the water out.
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When i bought my 92 from the elderly couple ( it was a 1 owner) he said he couldn't remember ever replacing the plug wires, rotor or cap.
They were very worn and the cap (which was factory nissan cap) was cracked in a few places making it run horrid when water got on it but it still ran when dry and no issues with idle.
I replaced all the ignition component minus the coil for better wet weather performance bu wasn't bad.
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If you don't have a lsd though is not a downfall( at least if you plan on installing a locker) since some lockers require you to have to open diff for install like a (Detroit locker) if you have a open diff its $450 for the internal unit if you have a lsd you will need the complete unit for $650.
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So i got bored today and took a piece of the center console ( the tiny cover over the bolts under the hand brake) to the local Lowes Hardware store since i was bored and they have a machine that will tell you the exact color of what you have so you can custom match things.
The Machine said the center console at least is ( London Grey ) in color its a brownish grey and they should me a spray can of that color and it was spot on LOL.
So at least my console with what ever sun fade and where it has is that color lol.
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looked back at the chart on that website it says 67-87 have a 108mm center bore must be 4wd's only down further on the chart shows same year with a smaller center bore, the only difference between the 2 listings are the lug sizes, the larger taking 1/2" lugs the smaller 7/16". Chart says Nissan center bore is 100mm. Just going by what they are saying I haven't measured anything personally, and it's been a real long time since I had a Chevy rally wheel in my hands,lol
Correct the older pre 88 model year change does have the proper center bore.
The 67 to 87 1500 4x4 will have the 15x7 with 3.75 BS
The 67 to 87 2500 4x4 will have the 16x7 with 3.75 BS
The only down fall will be finding the stock rims in a junkyard ( at least where i live) since most are either still in use or someone has changed the rims in the 25+ years.
But if you can find them your good to go.
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There's 2 wd21s I can picture in my sad running sr5 aluminum Toyota 4 spokers, they require different lugs (I'll look them up when I'm on my desktop comp if one of them don't chime in before hand), Colbywan and his ZAV have six spokers off a newer Nissan that the hub had to be bored on (check his members rides thread, they DO look sweet and blend with his trucks look beautifully IMO). Laxman I belive had S/C Xterra wheels on his r50 and had to work the hubs as well if my memory serves me right. There was a wd21 for sale on here (can't remember if it was a part out or truck sale) that had chevy steelies on it (with hub work as well). That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'll try to hunt some of those pics later as well (if I don't forget
)Thanks for reminding me the early 4runner / truck rims that are 4 spoke aluminum do require Acorn lugs nuts that have a small shaft that goes into the rim unlike regular lug nuts.
Here is a link to a site that will let you look at all rims for factory vehicles. there lug pattern , what lug nuts they use and also the rims weight.
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Ok i have looked into every stock will possible for our trucks and i will give you what i have found and know.
Also the 2WD nissan can use the chevy wheels becuase they lack the 4wd hub which cause the cehvy wheels not to fit if your 4wd with out work.
The stock companies you will be able to use are Nissan, Toyota, Isuzu, Honda(passport), Chevy (mods required).
Honda passport is a Isuzu rodeo so those wheels will work.
Chevy stock rims will require work due to the small center bore. The center bore will need to be enlarged for it to work.
Another note for Nissan is the titan rims have a small center bore also and will need to be drilled out.
Also note that most 00+ newer nissan and toyota rims have 4.75 BS or higher making the wheels tuck in which isnt the best for bigger tires to if you do go with those you might need spacers depending on wheels.
I personally run rims fron a 95 isuzu rodeo they have the same backspace and look just like the SOFT 8 but cost 8 dollars at the junkyard.
As for your vehicles here you go.
92-95 Isuzu rodeo / Honda Passport 15X6 3.75 BS
16x7.5 3.75 BS
96-99 Isuzu rodeo / Honda Passport 15x7 4.25 BS
16x7 4.5 BS
Nissan Xterra/ Nissan Frontier 16x7 5.0 BS
84-85 toyota solid axle 15x7 3.5 BS
86-95 Toyota truck / 4runner 15x7 4.25 BS
96-99 Toyota tacoma / 4runner 16x7 4.75 BS
96-99 Toyota tacoma 15x7 4.25 BS
00+ toyota tacoma / 4runner 16x8 4.5 BS
05+ toyota tundra/sequoia 16x8 4.75 BS
05+ Nissan frontier/ xterra 16x8 5.00 BS
88+ Chevy trucks Heavy duty 6 lug 16x7 4.75 BS
92-00 isuzu Trooper 16x7 5.25 BS
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93+ grey is easier to match aftermarket stuff to, 92- brown-grey is more sweet Nissan goodness, but neither hold a candle to rapist red
I Agree the Crazy red or blue would be pretty cool to have but probaly a pain to find used parts that are those colors.
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OK i know this might sound weird but for the life of me i can't really figure out what color the interior is in my 92.
I want to order all new carpet for it but i can't decided what color it really is.
Nissan shows that for 92 it came in Red, Maroon, Blue or Gray.
I know it has to be there version of gray but if you buy anything gray for it like steering wheel cover or floor mats there no where close to the color i really think it looks brownish to me but just want to think what you guys think it is.
In 93 or 94ish when ever they went to the rounded dash they have gray interior that easy to tell but new clue on mine.
This is what my interior looks like.
It really looks brown to me but maybe other will chime in.
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Yeah i thought originally they just had horrible gas when i saw the 85 octane for regular at the stations lol.
Here is the octane info if any one is curious.
United States: in the US octane rating is displayed in AKI. In the Rocky Mountain (high elevation) states, 85 AKI (90 RON) is the minimum octane, and 91 AKI (95 RON) is the maximum octane available in fuel[citation needed]. The reason for this is that in higher-elevation areas, a typical naturally aspirated engine draws in less air mass per cycle because of the reduced density of the atmosphere. This directly translates to less fuel and reduced absolute compression in the cylinder, therefore deterring knock. It is safe to fill a carbureted car that normally takes 87 AKI fuel at sea level with 85 AKI fuel in the mountains, but at sea level the fuel may cause damage to the engine. A disadvantage to this strategy is that most turbocharged vehicles are unable to produce full power, even when using the "premium" 91 AKI fuel. In some east coast states, up to 94 AKI (98 RON) is available.[23] In Colorado as well as parts of the Midwest (primarily Minnesota, Iowa, Illinois and Missouri) ethanol-based E-85 fuel with 105 AKI is available.[24] Often, filling stations near US racing tracks will offer higher octane levels such as 100 AKI[citation needed]. California fuel stations will offer 87, 89, and 91 AKI (91, 93 and 95 RON) octane fuels, and at some stations, 100 AKI or higher octane, sold as racing fuel.
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what controls where the flow if air goes is a white circular mechanism that is moved by a cable. When you move the dial from defrost to head & feet, the cable spins this circular thing in a different direction which shuts off the defroster vents while opening up the dash vents. If you only have air at the defrost vents, then something may be faulty with that mechanism. It's right above the gas pedal secured to the center console thing where your radio is. Just give it a look over.
Agreed you can easily see it move while you changing between modes good place to start.
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Do you have a aftermarket radio if so i would definatley remove the head unit and check for loose wires.
A loose wire would defintaley would cause the problems your stating.
As for the rear speakers not working if you have an aftermarket radio there will be 1 lonely wire coming out that connects to the wiring harness that is the signal wire for the rear amp check to make sure that is not loose.
My rear speakers quit working last year and found out that wire came off.
Also when hitting bumps and the stereo goes on and off also sounds like a loose wire that loses connection when hitting a bump.
As for you horn i would check the horn pad first since it will be easy to do and make sure that its touching when you press the horn.
There is a chance the radio it self might be on its ways out but i would check wiring.
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WHen you were going through the high altitude did you ever stop the car durning that time or get gas when in high atittude.
I know in my wifes 06 nissan maxima owners manual it says when driving from a low alittitude to a higher alittidue that will be excedding 3000ft difference that the car must be shut off and restarted for the ecu to learn a new fuel map since there less air at high alltidudes.
Cars that live in the high alttidues are already programmed for the air up there so they run fine.
Also did you get Gas in colorado? I have family that live around colorado springs and up there there normal regualar octane gas is only 85 octane up there since it doesnt need as high of ocatane rating in higher alltitude.
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Well i got the tire replaced today the manager had to look at the tire to verify it was a e load rated tire since they didn't belive me.
But everything is good to go now.
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I have a '94 and I am looking at the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual and it does not even mention changing the auto transmission fluid. I believe the '95 owner's manual is the same as the '94. Where does it mention to change the auto transmission fluid? What line on the maintenance schedule in the back does it say to change it?
If anyone else knows, that would be great.
My 92 owners manual says for it to be inspected every 15,000 miles and changed every 30,000 miles.
Nothing changed from 92 to 94 as far as engine/transmission so 30,000 miles changes is still on the maintence schedule.
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There made by Smittybuilt so there not a no name winch.
Most people that have reviewed them have giving it positive reviews so i'd say its not a bad deal.
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The right way is to climb under the truck and measure from the ground to the bolt on the LCA that connects it to the frame (the pivot point). Then move down the LCA measure from the ground to the piece of metal that juts out for the turning stop (or any reference point toward the wheel). Subtract the first measurement from the second and make each side the same. Be sure to "settle" the suspension after any adjustment. I would back up down the driveway and pop the clutch a few times to hop the front end up and down. A few times doing this would work fine.
Doing it that way will eliminate unequal tire inflation, body panel sags, uneven tire wear, etc. from skewing your adjustment.
Remember that a few turns of the adjustment bolt makes a big difference on the other end.
Good luck.
Thanks everyone for the help i found my problem.
I did the factory measurment that you said but the Left front fender was still 1/2 lower then the Right Front but i figured out why.
I did it the fender crease way and got
42 in left front
42 1/2 Right front
44 left rear
44 right rear
Which doesnt make any since
so i did the center of the hub to bottom of the fender and got 22 in both left front and right front wtf lol.
well since the factory way and the center of hub to fender both take out the tire in the measurment i took alook at my tires and found my problem.
I replaced the bars last week and set them up perfect.
Well on Saturday i got brand new 285/75R16 d load rated tires all set to 32 psi.
I went back out today after the measurment and found that my Left front tire is E LOAD Rated where as the other 3 are the D load rating.
My ground to top of tire is 1/2 short on the e load rating tire which is why my measurments is of so looks like i need to go back to the store tomorrow to get them to replace the e load rated tire lol i thought that tire look like it was low on air when they were all 32 psi lol.
Thanks everyone for the help.
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Lots of yota and jeep guys on this.I guess the nissan guys are content with their gas burners. lol
There 2 guys in my area that have done diesel swap but they didn't use the cummins they just used the Factory pathfinder diesel engine for the swap the TD27.
Since they were used in 88 to 95 pathfinder the swap was pretty straight foward they said i would go with that engine over the cummins since it was factory.
Now i will admit the cummins has alittle more tq the the Td27 but not bad plus if you add a intercooler you should be good to go.
TD27
115 PS (84.6 kW; 113.4 bhp) @ 4000 RPM
24.8 kg·m (243 N·m; 179 lb·ft) @ 2200 RPM
Cummins B3.3
85 horsepower with 215 lb-ft of torque
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Right now i cranked them to where there is nice UCA bumpstop clearance about 1 in and i'm sitting right at 39 1/8 in the front from ground to fender.
I think i had it at 39 1/2 but cant remember.
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I've search thru the forums and google but have yet to find the measurement i need.
Also i know that factory method of measuring stock ride height using the formula but would prefer what people have.
I just finished replacing my Torsion bar with new factory bars but for the life of me i can't find my ride height before i removed the bar i wrote down.
My question is can someone please tell me there front fender height to the ground with a 3" body lift and if you have a suspension lift how much and what size tire you have.
Also please state if you have fender flares as i do not.
Thank you.
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Just a quick update. I have the shocks installed now and they ride NICE. I am actually really impressed. At first I was a little leery to using different Ford models but the information made sense. I gotta say the pathy rides like a cadillac now!! It is so smooth and soaks up every little bump in the road. The bouncy front end is all but GONE. I thought all pathys just had a bumpy front end by nature! lol. Well these things smoothed it out anyways.
Thanks wd21overland!!!
Glad to hear it sounds like your shocks really needed replaced.
I was second guessing also back when i replaced mine but i have about 18k on the setup now and no complaints.
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I never really thought about HPDE before it looks pretty tuff and people says they reccomended for skid plates becuase it glides over rocks unlike aluminum which sticks.
Where would you pick up sheets of HDPE?
Other OEM wheels what are you running? nissan, toyota, chevy etc...
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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That would be a nice axle indeed.