wd21overland
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Posts posted by wd21overland
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My parts will be here from rockauto on Tuesday so if no one has posted a write-up by then i will post one with pics.
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catalytic converter is part of the exhaust.
i know lol i was saying your right it looks like the exhaust temp light.
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Hi
My pathfinder has started to wobble like if you were steering from one side to the other quickly at almost all speeds but gets worse at higher. I've been trying to search around for what it could be and have found the death wobble so far but i haven't read anything about in that that the steering wheel also is moving back and forth rapidly. To keep it from wobbling it i have to have a very tight grip on the steering wheel and hold it as still as possible. It happened right after i went out 4x4ing and hit the pavement where i noticed it. i also read it could be a bent rim. Does anybody have any insight on anything else or where i should start? Oh and its a 1993 pathfinder xe 4x4.
thanks
Very first thing i would do is jack up the front of the truck so both wheels is off the ground and then grab the tire and move it left to right and see hoe much it moves and also what is loose.
Anything causing that much movement should easliy show up when doing that.
If for some reason your not able to get it off the ground have someone get in the truck and move the steering wheel back and fourth while watching the steering linkage.
It could be your tension rods, tierods, idler arm or center link. My guess is a idler arm but with the way your describing multiple things may be bad.
But since you said it happened right after you went offroading guessing its a idler arm or tension rods broke.
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Nice write up.
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Remember if you need to test it the ecu has a built in O2 sensor test.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21
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Yeah just go with all 6 if you cant since if one goes bad another always seems to follow.
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Passenger side valve cover is leaking terribly... maybe my rear main is not toast?
I see no issues with the passenger side, but I assume that if it is leaking then the drivers side is probably in need of a gasket as well... I am not a half way kind of guy... so if I do one the other will be done as well...
Anybody done this before that can shoot me some pointers advice? The intake over the drivers side looks like a PITA...
I would do the pass and drivers side at the same time.
When mine were leaking it looked just like a rear main so definatly do the covers first.
Passenger side is a breeze just remove the 2 pcv vaccumn lines from the cover and take the screw out.
Now i don't know if yours will be like mine but the rubber had turned into solid rock it seemed and i had to practically chisel it off of the valve cover.
For the drivers side you need to remove the intake manifold, coolant passage lines, spark plug wires and random vaccumn lines it takes alittle more time but still easy enough to do.
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WTF!!! I tried to look for this for 5 minutes and I thought I was going crazy!
Here's my evidence
It looks just like the exhaust temp light to me.
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Waiting for a buddy to wake up in Aussie to tell me what the light is if you havent found out by then.
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OK i forgot today was a 4 day weekend at work due to presidents day so i took the parts pathy to the offroad park today.
After 5 hours of playing and bashing the pathy over some jumps the steering system is still nice and tight and steering wheel is still on center and nothing is bent.
The exhaust tail pipe on the other hand fell off but ehh its the parts truck so no worries lol.
So i went on rockauto.com and ordered all new moog parts with 2wd hb centerlink and inner tre's so should be here in a few days fun fun.
Now all i really need to do to my pathy is figure out how to adapt some skid plates to it since no one makes any other then the front for our lonely wd21's
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Well here is a pic of what your cluster look likes for you.
The one your talking about in the middle on the bottom just right of the door ajar light looks kind of like a muffler or cup of coffe lol with 3 lines above it.
I will check the manual to see what it is since i dont have a 94 to 95 pathy with that cluster.
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Just a quick question do you know what size/thread pitch the bolts for the pin are? I lost mine a while back and need new hardware. thanks.
Not sure but i will definatly take them out and check for you.
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This weekend i'm taking it to the offroad park to bash it around some and see how it does. I will have the pathy centerlink with tierods in the back incase some thing breaks.
It takes me a whole 15 mins to swap it all out as a whole so no issues.
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Also for a update after another day of driving i really enjoy the way it feels even though it using used parts for the test it has a better steering feel then my 92 pathy and it has all new steering components lol.
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Here is a example of what mine looks like just swap it to the idler side and all is well.
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Okay im trying to figure out which parts to use so i can install a steering damper with the 2wd steering links. i went to nissan and the frame pin for the 2wd hardbody and 4wd pathfinder have different part numbers but look very similar in picture. can someone with both center links take a measurement of the placement of the steering damper mount on the 2wd hardbody center link?? i want to know which steering damper and which frame pin will need to be used with this setup..
I'm running rough country steering stabilizer on both my pathy and the parts pathy with the 2wd hardbody center link conversion.
It uses a L bracket that bolts using 2 of the pitman arm bracket bolts and then bolts to the center using the stock centerlink tab.
Well with the 2wd center link conversion you need to flip the centerlink over which now moves the centerlink tab alot closer to the pitman arm bracket so all you do removed the L bracket from the pitman arm side and bolt it up using the 2 idler arm bracket bolts and all is well the stabilizer still function the same and has the same range of motion just swapped sides.
The rancho stabilier kit uses the 2 idler arm bracket bolt any way so its nothing out of the normal it just has you cut off the tabs on the centerlink any way and use 2 u bolt style clamps so no matter which stabilzer you go with both will work great.
Just get the kit for the 4wd pathy and you will have no issues.
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May I add that if you have an automatic, you pretty much multiply your result by 2 to take into account the torque converter...
Ah thanks for reminding me.
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Also if anyone ever cared to know the formula to figure out your crawl ratio.
Its (Transmission First Gear Ratio) X (Transfercase Low Range Gear Ratio)
Take that number and times it by your rear end ratio to get your crawl ratio.
Example -
1st gear ratio (3.82) X Transfercase Low Ratio (3.91) = 14.93
The take that number (14.93) X Diff Gear Ratio (4.6) = (Crawl Ratio) 68.70
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The 2.6:1 you got comes from the atx14x Transfer case that you see on some 2001-2004. This is the newer transfer case that uses planetary gears and is electrically activated from a dial in the dash.
S.
Thats makes since they show up to 2004 on xterra in the diagram so they just probaly went with that number and didn't notice it change prior to 2001.
Kind of makes me want to throw the 3.6 or 3.9 gears in my case that would give me one heck oh a crawl ratio.\
With 3.9 gear in my case i would have a crawl of 68.7 so very nice
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Also i found this info and all of it seems correct so go with it.
Nissan TX10A
Number of speeds: Two
High: 1:1
Low: 2.02:1
Case (or housing) material: Aluminum
Front output drive type: Gear (driver side drop)
Availability or aftermarket parts and support: Medium - Calmini 3.92:1 gearset, Automotive Customizers 3.6:1 gearset
Input spline count: 24 (I-4) or 30 (V-6)
Rear yoke: Slip
Planetary gear: No
Flange or slip yoke eliminator available: Yes
Output shaft spline count: 30
Shifter type: Mechanical
Length: ~18 inches (mount face-to-seal)
Commonly found in: Mid '86-to-'04 Truck, pre '96 Pathfinders, Xterras, Frontiers
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Actually it's more like 2.02:1. The specs should be in the FSM.
Correct i'm showing 2.02 in the fsm not sure where the magazine got 2.62.
With the 2.02 transfercase ratio the crawl ratio for the pathfinder is 35.58 so still not bad mainly due to the gear ratio.
ALso i checked out the jeep liberty transmission ratio the jeep liberty came with a 42RLE transmission with 2.84 first gear ration giving it a still lower 29.585 crawl ratio.
So 35.58 for pathfinder 29.585 for liberty.
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Alse after checking the factory serive manual it shows 2 different transfercase ratio's for the wd21 pathfinder.
one shows 2.62 like the magazine qoutes and another shows 2.02 so i will need to check into that.
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Thats good to know, I guess it would probably equal out, the Jeep Liberty had 3.73 gears w/ 2.72:1 low range. The Pathfinder is 4.6? gears 2.62:1 low range, Would it come out to the same?
I would have to see what there first gear ratio for the transmission was but for example if both have a 3.83 first gear ratio this is the crawl ratio you would get.
Jeep liberty - 2.72 low and 3.73 gears gives you 38.85 crawl ratio
Pathfinder - 2.62 low and 4.6 gears gives 46.40 crawl ration so a big difference.
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You asked and you shall recieve lol.
Nissan TX-10
Usage: 1986-2004 Nissan truck and Xterra, 1988-1995 Pathfinder.
Notes: Part-time, chain-driven two-speed transfer case, three-piece aluminum case, 30-spline input shaft (four-cylinder trucks use a 22-spline input shaft), 2.625:1 Low gear ratio, 32:1 crawl ratio. TX-10 mated to automatic transmission featured an oil sill around the input shaft to maintain lubrication. Differences in wiring harnesses and speedo sensors exist through years of use. Most 'cases are interchangeable but can only swap a T-case behind an auto transmission with another auto trans T-case due to oil sill.
Weaknesses: Low gear range is lacking compared to avg 2.72
Strengths: Versatility and parts availability
Read more: http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0907_4wd_the_transfer_case/viewall.html#ixzz1mYbEEEDt
Nice thing is there are many kits that will allow you to have a doupler or install 3.7 gears in it.
Center link
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Yeah my current parts pathfinder is using the stock 2wd HB outer tierod ends for the test and works fine but if you look at them they have a bend in them that puts the outer tre at a high angle. It works fine right now but i will be using the pathfinder 4wd outer tre with retaped sleeves on my 92 pathy.
2wd outer
4wd outer