wd21overland
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Posts posted by wd21overland
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Just check the shipping company i used and to get it from arizona to new hampshire for example runs $495
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the problem is i want one thats not all rusted, so if you know of or have a vehicle like this in the area that would be great, please pm me if you do
lookin to spend like 2500 for a real clean pathfinder, willing to travel but not across country
I know its probally not what your wanting to do but i also wanted a completley rust free pathfinder and there none around here in nebraska due to the salt so i just looked at ads in arizona, new mexico , texas etc
I found mine for $1600 in arizona and it cost me $400 to have a shipping company deliver it to my house so i know its a strecth for you but if you find a decent price one you can get it shipped and still be under your $2500 amount easily.
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I just went out and looked (rain let up) and no, there are no reinforced points already there, but they look like the could be installed from right to left. Just be a bit interesting doing the lower one. I'll head out to one of the junk yards this weekend and see what it takes to strip it out. It'll give me an idea of how hard it would be to put one in.
My other thought was similar to that Terrrano carrier, but move the wheel to the drivers side and put the Scepter cans closer to the hinge. I'd rather have the tire hanging out there on the end and the ~100lbs of weight between the three cans and mount on the inside. We'll see what I come up with.
I've looked into moving the tire closer to the drivers side but with my 33" spare on there i cant even move it over about a inch or it hits the swing bar the unlocks the carrier so you wouldnt be able to open the the carrier.
If you have stock tires it might be different for you so might work.
I just ended up buying the jerry and water holders that utilize the spare lugnuts i have 2 gas and 1 water right now.
Here is the website for them.
http://www.expeditiononestore.com/Expedition-One-Geri-Water-Packs-Geri-Water-Pack.htm
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No, your gas gauge doesn't only move when the engine is on, your gas gauge moves when the key is on ACC. I'm not sure why it moves so slowly. It's probably the physical gauge. A small gauge like that isn't going to move rapidly. the gauge mechanism doesn't move that fast I suppose. Also, the anti-slosh feature that Tungsten referenced is a contributing factor as well.
Btw, these tanks ARE 21 gallons LOL. Nissan only made two twos. 15 gal and 21 gal. 15gallon tanks were for the 4cylinders. People around here have definitely put 18, 19+ gallons in their tanks.
Anti-slosh my ass. It sloshes plenty.
Yep there 21.1 gallons unless you have the 4 cyclinder i had to drain the tank in mine before to fix a hole and took right at 21 to fill it up.
Easy way for me to tell is to just look in my factory owners manual under capacities where it says with VG30E 21.1 fuel capacity.
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I noticed the other day when I went out to run some errands I was on a little more than a quarter tank. Then the needle would sink way down to E and slowly go up a little. I was afraid I was almost out of gas and so I put some in. Today about the same thing happened. I stop to fill up and I could only get 10 gallons in. Well I think it has a 21 gallon tank so is this a common problem and is there an easy fix or is the sending unit going out? It's a bit frustrating not being able to trust the fuel gauge
Thanks~
Sadly it is pretty common mine does the same when its just above e i have about 5 gallons left in the tank because if i fill it up i can get right at 16 gallons in.
The fuel low level light comes on right at about 2 gallon left for me. I drove around with it on E one day till the light cam on finally and took about 18.9 gallons to fill it up that time. I just did the light once to truly see if it would work and to see when it would kick on.
99% of the time its the fuel gauge sensor in the tank.
If you have ever taken one out you'll see the senor and on the side there is a strip of metal and the sensor needle the metal wears away after time and it loses contact.
www.courtseyparts.com has the illustration on it sadly you have to get the whole unit.
Now depending on your year there is a massive price difference.
For 88-92 its $210
For 93 only its $157
For 94-54 is $137
no clue whats the difference is but there you go.
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Someone had told me that Nissan didn't start rust proofing the Pathfinder until 1996! We'll I have a '95 that is rusting throughout! Is there anything that I can do?
Nissan rust proofed there vehicles but only to the standards of the year it was made just like most late 80's and early 90's vehicles most have rust some where heck even most vehicles that are only a few years old around here are rusting thats why i bought my pathfinder from arizona and drove it back home so i would have a totally rust free pathy.
But back to your question what part of your pathfinder is rusted?
Luckly there are alot of companies that sell new body and frame parts to get your pathfinder back in shape.
Is your frame rusted through in the back? Are the rocker panel rotted out?
Just tell us what part is rusted to give you some ideas.
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I just have a simple setup also Kenwood stereo and speakers.
I can't stand having subs or loud bass since it just takes space that i use to carry spare parts when i go out on the trail or go camping with the family.
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Ok went to there website to find it.
Here is what they say.
When adding Sea Foam® to oil, for long term maintenance cleaning, you must check your oil periodically for color and clarity, when your oil looks dirty change it.
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oh @!*% really? Why? SeaFoam says you can leave it in for the whole length of the oil before you change it.
Yeah it says you can leave it in there for extended time but then 2 lines down on the bottle it says if you plan to leave it in there change the oil as soon as it gets dirty LOL. Which won't take long at all so there covering there butts with that phrase so no one can sue.
I've done it before but will never leave in very long.
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this is the flex i was taking about the tire is totally stuffed up in there!!!
Im not terribly happy with the way the front end is with the torsion bars cranked, i have approx an inch of down travel before it hits the bumpstops up front so my idea is to source some low profile front bumpstops and then re-index the torsion bars 2 splines so that i will have the added ride height with a little less spring rate cause just cranked they seem way too stiff and have hardly any give.
sorry about the picture quality, it was taken from a phone and then sent to me, sent to email, and then uploaded to photobucket.
When i had my 32's on with a rough country front suspension lift and jeep coils in that back i didn't have to do anything with the rear bumps stops i had maybe 1/4 between the tire and the inner fender well.
Also with the new control arm and ultra low profile bumps stops i have pretty decent down travel about 3" which isnt bad and that with them cranked some.
Remember if you re index your torsion bars your spring rate will still be the same its already been dicussed many times before the only thing reindexing the bar does is allow you to crank it up higher due to the bar sagging.( For example when i got my truck i could crank the driver side bar all the way up until the anchor was as high as it can go and i still would have 2" plus clearance from the bump stop to control arm unlike the passenger side which i only had to crank it a few turn to get the same amount and could easily crank it until the control arm was up against the bump stop so i had to reindex the drivers side bar 3 splines to even out the bars lift.
And here is the info about reindexing your bars http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038&st=40
Also before you buy your tires think about how long it will be before you put your body lift on so you don't make the mistake i did and buy a nice set of new tires only to put a body lift on 3 months later and now have the look of really tiny tires and the need/want to get bigger lol. At least with me i just gave the tires to my father in law since they had like 4k miles on them
I will try to find a better pic of the rear tire stuffed.
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I have searched and really not seen topics that are similar to mine. I will do my best to explain.
I have a '95 with a M/T. I will be driving and it acts like a fuel cut or sputter. It only happens when the rpm's are around 2500 to 3000. When the tach wants to work. If you let off the throttle or give it more throttle it will go away. It doesn't matter what gear you are in. It will idle fine, no miss. No check engine light.
I have pulled the maf and cleaned it. I have looked at the cap and rotor and cleaned them up. Fuel filter replacement has not changed anything.
Clogged injectors? Bad coil? Any ideas?
Normally when i see that issue come into the shop it will sputter around that rpm range but then has no power after 3000 where yours is fine.
The 2 things i would check are your Fuel pressure and the catalytic convertor. But normally with those things you will have reduced power after 3k which is having me at a loss.
But after checking the service manual i think you should take a look at your ignition timing with a timing light, if the timing is retarded a few degrees it can causing stumbling at mid range rpm..
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Did you look for vacuum leaks? I know when the small vacuum hose on the back of the intake boot spilt, mine did some whierd stuff. Might also be the IAC valve. You can check it by disconnecting one of the connectors near the distributor, then start it up. If it wont idle, you can try and adjusting it(look right over the top of the brake master cylinder from the left fender). You may also have some carbon issues on the valves.
I agree with him it's very possible its a vaccum leak or a IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve) that needs to be cleaned or replaced.
For the vaccum lines check the ones around the throttle body and Evap Canister(right beside the washer bottle) for visual leaks and also if you have a can of carb cleaner ( Starter Fluid will also work great and evaporate quick) laying around you can lightly spray the hoses while running along with the intake boot and if the engine idle goes up for a sec because of it sucking in the carb cleaner you can locate your leak easier. Also take a look at the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line its all way at the back of the intake next to the fire wall. Mine idled like your did awhile back and i went to change the number 6 spark plug and found the hose broken back there.
As for the IAC just remove and clean the carbon out of it.
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Have you checked the ECU for any codes yet?
Also what you have sounds like limp mode.
If the transmission stays in second and wont up shift into 3 and 4th thats the diagnoses of limp mode in the manual.
I would first check the codes to see if you have anything and also do you know if you tranny cooler was froze up?
Mine acted the same way during a heavy snow/ice storm the cooler was cramped full of ice and snow on it causing the tranny to not want to shift.
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Good stuff...I also did one that steevo should be able to share with folks but esentially the same...i thought about cutting my PS hose and pitting in a hard pipe about 2-3" long with clamps to extend the lines
I just bought brand new hoses that were extended length but i wanted a good fit so there were a PITA to install.
A hard line would be a good idea since there low pressure lines.
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I looked all over the site and can't find anything on this. I was at the garage yesterday getting the old girl inspected. I noticed that when it was up on the lift the drive line was laying on the cross member. Has anybody had this happen and if so how did you fix it? Also I remember seeing on here somewhere about the pan hard bar rubbing the shock. Any ideas on a fix?
SO i can get an idea of what part are your talking about. Is it the rear Drive shaft rubbing the cross member.
I have heard of this happening but it would require that you have alot of travel in the rear.
I have a 3" in the rear with 26" extended length shock compared to the stock 23" shock and no rear swat bar and even on the lift and full droop extension my drive shaft is not touching.
Here is a post that talks about nothcing the cross member so it doesnt touch but he has this issue with 6" of lift in the rear.
http://nissannut.com/projects/SAS_3link/
As for the PanHard rod Mine has never rubbed the shock since i have owned it and that with 3" body bilsteins and when i did my 3" lift i used a Calmini panhard drop bracket and no rubbing with it either.
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This didn't personally work for me. Personally, with ANY contorting of the seat, I don't see any way possible to bend one's wrist 130+ degrees and mess with the ecu. I cut myself up really bad trying to get to that damn ECU. Just get a 12mm socket and take the seat out. It takes all of 3 mins. Hell, you'll probably find some lost quarters and make profit.
I would bet on the egg smell being a nasty cat. This is a point of maintenance that is often overlooked. Unless you know a few nifty tricks, the cat is hard to check without removing half your exhaust system. I was in an SUV about a year ago when I smelled some nasty stuff. The driver mumbled something about the catalytic converter but I didn't know anything about cars back then so I just opened the window.
Start by checking your cat. I think I heard that these trucks (or most cats in general) are supposed to have a 100F difference between the inlet and outlet of the cat. I bought a digital infrared thermometer off Amazon.com for like $11. It works pretty well I guess.
I just tilted my seat back foward then slided the seat foward and opened the rear door and i had perfect access to the ecu removing the seat is a waste of time no reason.
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x2, usally not needed unless one breaks while removing. Did a 3.8 toures and the head bolts were 200 bucks so needless to say they never were changed and the motor was still going strong 50k later when th car was finally junked.
The reason it's recommended is that the bolts are (torque to yield bolts) The bolts are designed to stretch to apply the torque required for the application.
The bolts are deisgned to be a one time use only bolt since once there stretch they never return back to there factory length and when re used will not apply the same pressure as before.
Now say that i have seen alot of people reuse the bolts with no problem but there is a much higher chance of the bolt not applying the needed pressure and also have a higher chance for the bolt to break in the block.
I know how hard it is to get a broken bolt out of the head so i will never reuse those kinds of bolts.
Here is some info on the bolts.
http://freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html
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Typically a rotten egg smell is too much fuel or a bad cat causing the catalytic converter to send a lot of sulfer smell out of the exhaust.
But you said you smelled it inside so it could be electrical but i don't think i have ever heard anyone talk about that smell inside the cabin at least in the wd21 world.
Now you could have an exhaust leak causing the smell going into the cab either by rust on the floor board(Not very common) or the transfercase rubber boot seems they always rip after time and it under the leather cover so you never see it and they allow exahust fumes to come up.
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Oddly enough there is one in town for sell on craigslist.
It says complete kit with ssv shocks.
It also said its ever been installed before and from the pics it does look brand new but kind of odd that it was never installed since i think they quit making it a few years ago but i guess it can happen.
He is asking $450 usd for it which is great but the shipping might be the fun part lol.
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Also i don't know if you have done this yet but have you check your ecu for codes since the pathy doesn't use a dummy light you have to check your error codes at the ecu.
You can use it to check your air/fuel mixture, O2 sensor and MAF sensor along with codes.
Here is the procedure.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21
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Ok, I bought an alternator wiring kit as it was cheaper than just buying individual wires. I removed the fuse links from the battery port and added a multiple 14ga wires where it needed to be. I ran the 4ga wire from the battery with the 80a fuse directly in line with the dual white wire at the back of the alternator. The charging system works a little better. Max voltage is 14.46 alone, with the lights on, or the heater fan on. When everything is on and makes a full load and put the Path into drive, the voltage dips into 12.8v and the car starts to stumble.
I know in the FSM, the white/black wire from the battery goes to a circuit breaker. Anyone knows where this is located.
Here is a sketch of what I copied to what I have done and some numbers for your information.
Any other help would be much appreciated as this did not fix my problem. It just placed a band-aid.
Tony R.
It's not the voltage causing you to stumble both of my pathfinders my 92 and 95 both stay around 12.5v at idle when the heater is on full and headlights on and they idle perfect and have never stumble 12.8v is fine.
I went outside real quick to verify what you did and with everything on its right at 12.5 to 12.6v so that not causing your stumble.
The factory service manual shows that voltage is perfectly with in factory limits.
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Cloth heated seats are fantastic in the winter. You get in and your ass is already warm before the hot air starts blowing. Luckily, for those of us without the heated seats option, the VG engine will already produce heat much faster than 90% of the vehicles out there. So while they are nice and I would love to have them, it's not really that big of a deal for me.
Very true it seems out of all the vehicles i've owned my pathy will start blowing warm air before i get a few block away lol heck even my wifes 06 pathy takes much longer then my 92 lol.
Worst was her 04 neon it was just getting warm when i got to work so was useless most of the time lol and that only had 34k miles on it so doubtful anything was wrong with it to cause it to take so long.
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Just wondering what everyone thoughts about the 2012 nissan pathfinder.
There going away from the truck frame again and it will now be based off of the nissan maxima car chassis.
I was happy when it they went back to a frame again but sad to see it go back looks like xterra will be the last surving truck frame suv in there line up.
Here is the motortrend article on it.
http://www.motortrend.com/auto_shows/detroit/2012/1112_2012_detroit_2013_nissan_pathfinder/
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While i can't comment on a R50 my Wife has a (R51) 2006 pathfinder and i love the comfort on road but offroad i can't stand driving it. Both my WD and R51 have the same tires Bfg at's mine 33's her's 32's and the R51 always has trouble getting anywhere back woods where we go camping the Independent rear suspension is always a hinderence on rocks and off camber situation.
(The range rover / land rover has IRS also but it uses 4 wheel Air shocks with cross linking when offroad so it makes it more viable.
Giving that i would take the R50 since the only reason i have my pathfinder is for 80% offroad 20% highway.
95 pathy No speedometer, question on type of fluids as well
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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You said you check engine light came on when the speedo quit working.
A quick thing you can do is check the ecu to see what trouble code you have and go from there. here is a link http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21
I'm willing to bet that the code will be (Code 14 Vehicle Speed Sensor) mine did the exact same thing a few months ago very easy to replace but also before you get one check to see if it is a loose connection.