NissanNismoZ
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Posts posted by NissanNismoZ
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I agree.. Seems hard to choose between uncc (with the massive flex making the woman look tiny!!) a Silverton (completely flexed out!) and pa's pic.. Especially with those jeeps hating on the Pathy..
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Mine was fairly easy compared to what you guys are saying.. My starter went out and my Pathy is stock height.. I unplugged the starter connection s and oil pressure connector and twisted and turned it, pulled on the tranny line in the way and it came right out.. Did the exact opposite and the new one went right in.. I didn't remove my oil filter.. Has anyone not tried it this way? The center link seemed like the only thing that would get in the way unless you move the tranny lines like I did.. Also the truck was driven up on ramps and not lifted up (may make a difference in steering/suspension placement)
hope this helps!
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Looks like o have to do this now...ugh. I'm not comfortable doing this but can't afford the 300$ to have it done..
Btw 1994SEV6 did you tighten the two nuts together really tight first? Just an idea..
I have a drill but its not the most powerful..so lets hope none break inside.. thanks for the great write up!
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Hmmm..I could do it myself.. but what would I need? I'm kinda iffy if ill screw it up or not..
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I was quoted 200-300$ to do the job..is that bad? And worth it? I really want to know if leaking studs can cause a power loss..thanks guys..
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Yep..i think you got it now..ugh. My exhaust studs are broken worse im guessing by how loud it is now.. Looks like ill have to dish more money into that part..as long as thats the problem?
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I do have a CAI. So I guess that could be it..but I do wonder ..when it started hesitating it would sometimes go back to full power or bog.. since this adjustment it hasn't bogged yet, but I'm worried it will as it seems there's still some power loss up hills..but 90% better.
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Engine was cold, it only seems to do it when its on its cold start phase
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Okay..so. I can confirm it feels like most power is back but the hesitation problem is back now
I was backing out of my driveway and felt it stumble unless I let off slightly or push it harder.. so what could this be? Sometimes it feels like I have to fluctuate the pedal some when it's feeling powerless..any ideas? I noticed the manual Pathy doesn't have a potentiometer..so does that mean the auto's tps has no effect on fuel mixture? Thanks. Just trying to track my problem down..unless the maf is screwing up..
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Nope, it's the auto TPS
Well, i mean mine has the auto, the on e in the video does look to be the manual one.
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Aha. So, apparently i hooked my leads backwards.. I find it shifts smoothly at .50v and tada! Power is restored.
I'll confirm this tomorrow after its had time to cool down..but so far, so good!
Thanks fMan for the video!
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Okay..can someone please help me? I need clarification on how to adjust my TPS... Okay, so. At idle, it was reading 4.23v...ok so i shut it off and review the FSM..it says it should read .4 - .6 volts. 4 volts seems way too high..so i open the throttle wide open, and adjust it to .49v and take it on a test drive.. WOW. HUUUUGE power increase..but wait. Why does it shift so late and why do i have to let WAY off the pedal for it to shift now?
Can someone clarify on how its supposed to be adjusted, and maybe a picture of their TPS adjustment...?
It would be really appreciated...Thanks! Here's a pic of my adjustment now...:
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Its not, its just conntected to the EGR. I don't have a way of blocking it yet.
Good news: I actually adjusted the TPS until it finally idled right (my multimeter can't stick in the connector far enough to read voltage...
)So I adjusted it by test drives of most power..and hesitation is gone! It idles at 550 - 600 rpm instead of shuddering at 450rpm. I will adjust it properly as soon as I figure out how to get my multimeter to read it..ill do it properly. It actually just spun in wet pavement.
Ill give more results when I get it adjusted right..
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So i made a REAL block-off plate today, and used some RTV sealant to seal it off, and bolted in the EGR to hold it tight.. i let it sit for an hour and test drove it..meh. it's doing some better but it's still not right..there's still that hesitation.. Looks like i'll be re-adjusting my TPS...
Also, i've noticed my exhaust tick is extremely loud lately....can that cause a power loss..?
I have a friend with the same year pathy with an exhaust leak and in need of new plugs/wires and it still outdoes mine by a LOT. Acceleration used to be to 3k rpm..and id be up to speed..lately i have to drive it up to 4500 to get anywhere 'fast'
It just seems like the less pedal i give it, the better off it is..so im guessing the TPS may be adjusted just a hair too far? can the TPS adjustment mess with it this much?
Thanks.
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NissanNismoZ
Not much..but I love it.
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Pepsi to the rescue!
I cut it to fit the EGR gasket exactly and put it in and at first it idled way down..to where it was showing 0 RPM and an occaisional bump..tehn straightened itself out..either way its better than before.
I know this isnt permanent but its going to work until i can get a block-off plate made.
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Looks like im cutting up a can and blocking it off until i can either get a new one or get a plate made.i think messing with the EGR by pumping it may have cracked or ripped the diaphragm because now it wont even reach over 45mph on flat ground! ah well. itll work until i can get it fixed properly.
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I know someone that drove without one before getting a new one and as long as the pump is already bad what can you damage? Its only safe if you have the strength to handle it..
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Ugh..now its back to waiting. Letting the EGR sit all night in Carb cleaner still results in me having to pump it a few tines before leaving or it falls on its face. Can't afford a new EGR and the junkyard doesn't have one. Ha. Who knows maybe the people junked that Pathy because of its EGR and I grabbed one in the same condition as mine.
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Yep..its practically leaking out as soon as i put it to it..also, when its installed on the truck it makes a purring noise anyway...ill probably just cap it since it doesnt do anything but steal my air power.
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Also, when its driving RIGHT i have brakes..when the EGR is acting up it idles so low i barely have brakes...
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So it's safe to remove? because i spray carb cleaner through it and you can see it 'radiating' through the inside of it..it also doesnt hold vacuum when applied?
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I had this SAME problem. The reason being is because you have to use the guts of your old one.
A golden piece slides in the inside from behind, and a golden washer goes in front while a cap piece goes on the outside.Hope this helps! I
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Quite a lot actually..
Put on new tensioner and new belt for A/C
Recharged A/C
Put the skid plate back on after repainting.
Installed new EGR valve (new to me, anyway.)
Removed new EGR valve for cleaning.
It's been a long day, but it's getting to where it needs to be, and the heat has been extreme lately so i thought i should go ahead and get the A/C going again...
cant find the source
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by NissanNismoZ
I'd it possible one of your belts are just loose? Have you tried removing one belt at a time?
alternator whining?