devonianwalk
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Posts posted by devonianwalk
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The knock is audible when I hit bumps in the road (rr crossings, pot holes, speed bumps) but, they are not loud enough to annoy me. In fact, if I'm listening to music on the radio it is merely a "back ground" nuisance. If I'm listening to NPR (talk radio) the knock is more prevelent.
I'm greatful that other posters here on the forums gave us a "heads up" on the noise as I would have thought that I had some sort of install problem.
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The truck deff has a lot of "rake". Even with the strut spacer there will be some height difference. I really don't mind as I often load my rig down with tailgating equipment and occasionally go on extended trips (luggage, tools, gear, etc.) with family and friends. I more or less got the spacers to level the rake and help with approach angles when I start hitting the trails. The mud is only fun for so long you know.
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hopefully your neighbors!
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Sea-foamed my mountain bike (I ate)...
Smoke out the neighborhood?
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truck looks great man. thats exactly how i want mine to end up looking. and thanks for the advice. are you running any spacers to level the suspension and did you adjust the camber at all with the AC lift?
Funny you ask about the spacers. I just bought some NX4 1" strut spacers from PaMountainbiker (he upgraded to a SFD). I have yet to install them as they will require me to re-align my front end.
As for the camber? Yes, I went with four (two per strut) camber bolts. I highly recommend them as they do make a huge differnce. With out them the front wheels would have a "bulldog" stance when viewed from the front of the truck. I was not completely sold on the camber bolts until my friend installed them to the struts and "adjusted" them before mounting the wheels. The camber angle was greatly noticeable.
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I did notice a HUGE improvement in how "freely" the front wheels rotated when lifted off the ground; comapring permanently-locked hubs (OEM) and manual hubs. Even after driving it around, I also noticed that it coasts down the road easier.
Anyway, I will admit that the primary reason for me for installing manual hubs was MPGs... but since I didn't get any, i'm just happy I and saving myself from new CV axles every so often since I mainly drive asphalt anyhow.
Excelent points. I too noticed the "lighter" front end feel and the longer coasting. This is a no brainer mod. Super-uber glad I did mine with the Warns (would have gone with the Mile Markers as they cost lest though).
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I havn't seen this one on my 3.3L R50.
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Thanks! How long can I go/what happens if it breaks?
Asked myself the same question a couple of years ago. $600 later I had the answer.
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Drove it through a "hellashish" thunder storm. Looks like I drove it through the freekin' Amazon with all the mud and leaves stuck to the sides. Had to avoid two downed trees on the way to work to boot!
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I was (almost) in your boat a couple of months ago. I went with your formula but, changed my plans going with 15" rims as the tires seem to be a little cheaper. I too, went with the GY Duratracs that are 31" in diameter. I can tell that the 31's would be a bit too tall for the stock height suspension.
My suggestion would be to do what I did. Wait to install the AC 2" susupension and put the tires on at the same time. I too wanted to do it in steps but, I would have had to go with smaller tires. I am happy as could be with my 31 x 10.5 x 15's that are aggressive enough to do some moderate trailing. My next steps will be the skid plate and rock sliders. Until then ...
Also, looking forward to your pictures. Please take a couple of "before" pics as you will for sure provide us with plenty of "after" shots!
Here's My link for my build several weeks ago.
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I went and pulled my heat shields off of the piping under my R50 because of the terrible rattle that was going on down there. Under the hood I'm fine but, should I worry about the undercarraige?
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i bought wrong ones years ago from 4x4parts(not sure of part #) and had to have strut mounts machined down to fit.
Same here. However, we ground mine down as opposed to paying a machine shop to do it. Took all of six minutes for both sides.
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Not to mention the saved wear and tear on the CV axels. Win-win!
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Cut a peice of 1/2 square black electrical tape to cover my SES/CEL light, damn tired of seeing that thing.
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Do you just add more transmission fluid to system, or do you have to flush the whole thing?
Mine was flushed as the cooler was installed after my tranny was rebuilt.
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Took a couple pics of mine while I had the grill off today. Sooo .... here ya' go?
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Nice. Looking forward to the upgrades.
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Put the plastic flares back on. Couldn't take the holes in the fenders. Also stole SilverPathy's (I think) idea of removing the grill and painting it graphite "black".
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Youtube? It's quick and easy.
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Don't know about your leaking problem but, I love the look of your Pathy! Where in NC are you? Killer avatar pic.
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Yes. I've heard that Griot's is awesome. Won't use it on the Pathy but will look into using it on the wifey's Prelude and my Miata. I'm going with mud (southern red clay) on the Nippo.
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Ripped the plastic fender flares and rear mud guards off. Now I'm staring at the holes lining my fenders.
(but loving the added "visual" height of the wheel wells!)
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True that. My "brush guard" is aluminuminnmum (that's how I pronouce it). I'm gonna' use it to drive up to my front door and make that my excuse to quit mowin' my lawn.
Tire size and suggestions.
in General Forums
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Judging from your "before pic" above, it'll look great! I'm a fan of your factory roof rack.