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Iceman2989

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Posts posted by Iceman2989

  1. Picked up some coils off craigslist for the rear for $25, and started playing with it to see what all I'll need. Here are some pics of the rear setup I plan on using.

     

    DSCF9527.jpg

    This is the lower perch where the bottom of the coil spring will sit. I plan on welding a small piece of pipe to the center of this, and having my coil spring fit snugly around it.

     

     

    DSCF9528.jpgThis is the top perch, where the top of the coil spring sits.

    DSCF9535.jpg

     

    It is just under 4" in diameter.

     

     

    DSCF9529.jpgThis is the stock coil spring, with a rubber seat that fills the gap between the coil spring and the upper perch. The rubber is there to help eliminate noise, and make sure the coil is seated properly.

     

    DSCF9531.jpg

    This is a close-up of that rubber spacer.

     

     

    DSCF9536.jpgWithout the rubber spacer there, the coil diameter is a hair over 5" in diameter.

     

    Here are the coil springs that I got in comparison with the stock coils.DSCF9532.jpg

    Much taller, with a slightly higher spring rate. These are off a 93 Jeep Cherokee.

     

     

    DSCF9534.jpgThe new coil springs have a diameter of just over 4" and will fit perfectly over the upper perch.

  2. Okay, so I did a quick double take of the prices of everything, and I wanted to save more. Instead of the 8078 coils, I am going to go with 77 f150 front coils. Theyve got a free height that I think will work, in addition to a higher spring rate than the pathfinder, plus they are much more available. I couldnt find any fairlanes at my nearby junkyards, so after asking around and finding the f150 coils at several different places, it seems like they may be a better option. Plus, after shipping, the fairlane coils are close to $100, and more than I wanted to spend on the coils. At $30 a piece for both the f150 coils and the WJ coils at my local junkyard, I'm just going to go ahead and use those.

     

    For reference, Part #CC814 and CC816 are what I'm talking about.

    Free height of 17.5 and 18.25, spring rates of 271lbs, and an outer diameter that matches up with the stock pathy coils at the top. For the bottom, I'm going to sleeve them.

  3. Its one of those days.......................

     

    a lady called.

     

    CALLER: Is this the parts department?

     

    ME: Yes Ma'am, it is how can i help you?

     

    CALLER: Do you sell parts there?

     

    ME: Yes we do how can I help you?

     

     

    What is it with people today???????

    Heeeeeeeeere's your sign!
  4. Those pictures are before getting my new tires/wheels. My tires poke out a good 2 inches now on each side, and make sure that the sides of my pathfinder get extra dirty whenever I find a puddle or mud. I'm not worried about scratches, but if you were, and plan on getting a wider stance from different offset tires/wheels, then you may wish to keep them on.

  5. I had a local guy fab some up for me. I didnt plan on ever taking mine off, so I had him weld them straight to the unibody. I've lifted the vehicle by them several times, very sturdy, and have saved me quite a bit of trouble. Sprayed em with a coat of undercoating to leave a nice durable surface.

     

    Here are a couple pics for reference.

     

    2011-04-14_12-30-35_528.jpg

     

     

    2011-04-14_12-34-58_693.jpg

     

    2011-04-14_13-16-25_706.jpg

     

    2011-04-14_13-47-36_870.jpg

     

    2011-04-14_13-47-41_277.jpg

    • Like 2
  6. shoesandsocks, on 16 May 2013 - 15:22, said:

    just thought of something backspacing of your wheels may make them rub a lil

    Bingo. More than the tire size, what will make them hit or miss the strut is the backspacing of the wheel. Lower backspacing means the tire is pushed further away from the body of the vehicle. Of course a taller tire is more likely to rub, but you can fit a taller tire and NOT have rubbing as long as the backspacing pushes the tire out enough to clear everything. As far as what the stock back spacing is on your 17s, I have no idea. Regardless of backspacing, however, if the tire diameter does not exceed what anyone else has done on stock wheels with the OME lift, you should clear the strut just fine. Does that make sense? If the overall diameter is the same as someone on 31x10.5R15s wether its metric or standard or whatever you decide, you'll clear it just as well as they did with the 31" diameter tires. I have 265/70/R16 on my stock suspension and clear the strut just fine.
  7. Failure is one's best friend...well, unless one's failure is catastrophic, then its just one proving Darwin's theory of evolution. :clap:

    or survival of the fittest!
  8. I am in the process of making some custom rear spring spacers so that it is leveled out nicely. I also have some really awesome plans for the front suspension. Not SAS but something more unique. Will take a while but will promise to post up everything.

    I'm excited for this.
  9. Used rust encapsulator on front and rear tube bumpers, as well as both rock sliders. They had been getting a little rusty, so that helped a ton. After it had dried several hours later, I sprayed undercoating on all of them as a protective coating. Looks great, and after that dries It should be preserved for a decently long time!

  10. There was already an aftermarket deck when I bought my pathfinder. My treble was fine stock, but the bass was starting to buzz from the stock 16yr old paper cones in the speakers, so I just upgraded the bass by putting a sub in the rear. 15" Memphis sub on clearance from a local auto store, ported box off ebay, and an alpine amp off craigslist. $110 for the whole setup, and now it sounds the way I like it, and I can make my neighborhood hear it the way I like it too if I crank it. :laugh:

  11. Just a research update. I've narrowed it down to which coil I feel will be the best fit. I nominate Moog 8078 (on rockauto.com as RC8078 for part numbers).

     

    Spring #8078

    Inside Dia 4.63

    Bar Dia 0.69

    Install Height 11.5

    Load rate (lbs) 1880

    Spring Rate (Lbs/in.) 275

    Free Height 18.34

    Ends Type ST

     

    It has the ends that I want (one square end for the top, and one tang end to be trimmed)

     

    It has a pretty high free height at 18.34", but I chose this coil because if I cut off an active coil (there are 7.7 active coils to begin with), the spring rate goes from 275 to 315. If I take off that extra .7 of a coil it goes to 353lbs. The AC Springs have a rate of 380lbs, and 353 should be close enough to this to offer some substantial height gain, yet marginally reduce the harshness of the ride. Granted, its only 30lbs difference, but it will still count. At cutting off 1.7 coils from the 18.34" free height should drop it down to where I could feasibly fit the coil in the strut assembly.

     

    Rockauto has these coils: Part#RC8078 for $74.99

     

    Who would have thought that a 1962-1965 ford fairlane coil would work??? I dont have any in the junkyards around me here to try em out for even cheaper than the $75 from rockauto, but I'll take $75 over the $180 AC coils anyday.

     

    If anyone has ideas of where to find these cheaper, let me know!

     

    So I'll take this coil, wrap the bottom rotation of coil in vinyl or rubber tubing layers until it has grown to fill the bottom perch on the strut assembly, and then mount em!

     

    For the rear I still plan on using the WJ coils. I will weld a small piece of pipe to the coil spring perch so that the pig tail can stay on, and the coil wont bounce around.

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