Towncivilian

If it's possible, put an incandescent bulb in the third brake light and it'll fix your cruise control.

Transfer fluid: 2.32 quarts Use Nissan Matic D or equivalent Dexron III/Mercon, or GL-4 gear oil. ATF is used in the factory. Do not mix ATF and gear oil in the transfer case.

You need one incandescent bulb somewhere in the circuit to draw enough current, otherwise you get the issue you describe. I don't think your 91 has a third brake light, right?

Do you happen to have LEDs in all of the brake light spots?

Pathfinder has 2 of them, your mechanic is a moron. OEM ones are $560-ish each; aftermarket ones are significantly cheaper.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/my-intake-mod-w-jwt-pop-charger-t510519.html

Upload it to www.mediafire.com

Just because it seems to seal fine doesn't mean it's working properly. It's cheap, replace it anyway. See EC-406 for a diagnostic procedure for the evap vent control valve: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/ec.pdf

P0440 is "EVAP CONTROL SYSTEM (SMALL LEAK) (NEGATIVE PRESSURE)". Try replacing your gas cap with a new OEM one to begin with. P1448 is "EVAP CANISTER VENT CONTROL VALVE (OPEN)". Make sure all of the vacuum hoses for the evap canister next to the rear right tire are securely connected and none are clogged.

Great that it was just a sensor! Thanks for sharing your findings.

EC-27 of 2001.5 FSM has a vacuum hose diagram.

Cleaned steering wheel and parking brake handle and wiped down some other surfaces. Really could use a wash and vacuum. I got a growing list of other stuff to do too, and it's only getting hotter in Florida.

And on VQ35DE equipped R50s it's mounted diagonally.

See page EL-6 of the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2002_Pathfinder/el.pdf) for removal instructions. That connector looks like the one pictured under "Waterproof type".

Ideally, you would run new speaker wire to each door. Bypassing the rear amplifier for the two rear speakers and kludging the wiring for the front speakers is possible (I've done it), but it's probably better and easier to just run your own wire.

Yeah, siphon & fill the power steering fluid reservoir using a turkey baster or some sort of suction tool and refill with synthetic ATF. Do this several times with a couple days of driving in between till you use up a quart or two of ATF, then repeat once every third oil change or something to help keep the fluid fresh and evacuate some wear material.

That's why I change my fuel filter yearly or so. Fuel filters are cheap, and I'd rather minimize any possible restriction to avoid the fuel pump working harder than it should. That reminds me - it's been a year and one day now since I last changed the fuel filter... better change it soon! I think I'll cut the current NAPA Gold 3023 (Wix 33023) open to see how it looks and measure the amount of filtering media.

Since it was rebuilt, there may be more particulate matter in the fluid due to break-in wear and any contamination from the rebuild process. Ideally you would have installed a Magnefine in-line filter to catch most of this wear material, or completely exchanged the fluid relatively early (15k or so) to evacuate the wear material. A complete fluid exchange shouldn't cost very much, so I'd try that first.

You are confusing a pressure bypass valve with an anti-drainback valve. The anti-drainback valve is a nitrile or silicone disc shaped piece which holds oil in the filter after the engine has been shut off. The coil spring looking piece opens the bypass valve when the pressure differential between the positive displacement oil pump and the filtering media is too high (for example, when the oil is cold or the filtering media is clogged) to allow the oil circuit to bypass the oil filter completely. Here is a PL14610 cut open with the ADBV visible, and the bypass valve somewhat visible: http://i198.photobuc...r1/DSC09332.jpg Also see this diagram of an oil filter: Unfortunately I cannot find photos of a PL24457 or L24457 cut open.

I entered 1989 Nissan Pathfinder into the Purolator filter finder and PL24457 (and the other tiered equivalents) came up. I took another look at the PL24457's detail page and it has no bypass valve. I assume the bypass valve is integrated into the oil filter base. 0W oils really make a noticeable in extremely cold temps, as you've said. Ironically, some 5W or even 10W oils may be thinner on a typical Florida summer day at ambient temperature than a 0W oil, but I digress. For cold weather performance, 0W oils can't be beat.

The Purolator PL24457 which fits your '89 Pathfinder has an anti-drainback valve. I have had a Mobil 1 EP-110 oil filter sitting face down in a small drain pan for over 6 months and oil is still coming out of it; the ADBV definitely works. K&N filters are identical internally to Mobil 1 filters. See a particle count comparison of Mobil 1 EP filters vs. Amsoil's EaO oil filters here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1250177 5W-20 may reach operating temperature faster in the winter, but both 5W-20 and 5W-30 have generally similar viscosity at cold starts. I would run a 0W-30 oil during the winter for better cold flow (or all year round if you wish) instead of dropping a grade of viscosity at operating temperature.

NTB07-078 - VOLUNTARY RECALL CAMPAIGN 1997 – 2001 PATHFINDER FUEL FILLER TUBE http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/recalls/NTB07-078%20-%20VOLUNTARY%20RECALL%20CAMPAIGN%201997%20%e2%80%93%202001%20PATHFINDER%20FUEL%20FILLER%20TUBE.pdf

Yeah, if it's crazy bright pink then that indicates water or coolant entry, which is BAD.

Pull the cluster and make sure the bulbs are undamaged. See here for instructions on accessing the instrument cluster: http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-replace-instrument-cluster-lamps-t461756.html

Motorcraft filters are manufactured by Purolator to Ford's specifications. An FL822 fits VG33E/VQ35DE equipped R50s, I believe. SuperTech filters have been discontinued. All but the smallest filters used a nylon inner cage instead of a steel tube. I would not run one. Mobil 1 filters are made by Champion Labs and are well built; I'm running one right now on my PF and my mom's '07 Altima. As far as I know, K&N filters are identical to M1 filters save for the welded nut on the bottom.