Towncivilian

The in-pan strainer is a rock catcher, if it is clogged you have bigger problems. You can just use the transmission cooler return line to do a complete fluid exchange in your driveway. I posted instructions in this thread in the "Transmission and driveline" section. EDIT: Oh, I need to read the entire thread before posting. Either way, a complete fluid exchange and maybe a pan drop (to see if there's a ton of junk on the pan magnet) is a wise idea in this case.

Make sure the hoses aren't clogged, kinked, or leaking too.

Inspect the radiator cap following the instructions in this TSB and replace with a new OEM one if necessary.

Looks like I'm not the only one who took advantage of the DTD $100 rebate! I got a set of 4 Yokohama Geolandar AT/S 255/65R/16 for $620 shipped to my door. I had to mail in the rebate; I tried the online submission but they said they couldn't validate the invoice. Lame.

They're sure as hell not plastic, at least not on post-facelift R50s...

Yes, one is not supposed to hold the steering at full lock for more than something like 30 seconds according to the owner's manual.

You're not supposed to solder O2 wires, the sensors "breathe" oxygen through the O2 sensor.

AutoZone and some other parts stores read codes for free, go get them pulled.

My first thought was coolant temp sensor as well, even though I've never even seen a VG33E in person (damn I'm good ). A disconnected ECTS would throw P0115 or P0125 and probably cause some sort of noticeable issues as well, since P0115 is in the fail-safe chart. The engine just assumes the engine coolant temperature based on engine run time if P0115 is detected.

P0136 is the passenger's side post-cat O2 sensor. Buy this direct-fit Bosch sensor from Amazon for $60 shipped (assuming you have an auto trans here). Buy this crankshaft position sensor for $30 - 5% discount + shipping.

Yes, a faulty upstream O2 sensor can cause those codes if it's faulty, by causing an improper fuel/air ratio. Replace the sensor to begin with.

Whenever I try, the thing just rips somewhat. Am I doing it wrong?

A little OT, but the 12v microbulbs from Rat Shack don't have the blue condom filter over the light like the OEM defrost switch bulb does. Will this make a significant difference? I'm needing to replace my defrost bulb as well. I replaced it with one from an 88 Hardbody from the junkyard but the light is orange and clashes, haha. How come the main defrost bulb always dies but the hazard bulb seems to last all eternity? I remember replacing my A/C button bulbs with the Rat Shack microbulbs, but don't remember whether they have the blue filters over them. I definitely didn't move them over if they did. Does the blue filter just make the light softer/dimmer? 96-99 Pathfinders have an inspection lamp in the hood, see Courtesy Parts diagram: But the part was never offered in the USA. How come?

I meant post in that thread, maybe Alkorahil can knock off the price a bit more.

See if Alkorahil can get you OEM pumps cheaper.

Oh my, that is not good. See 1996-98 PATHFINDER ENGINE DAMAGE, MIL ON (P0300 THROUGH P0306) AND/OR ENGINE OVERHEAT DUE TO COOLANT LEAK FROM INTAKE COLLECTOR.

I'm not familiar with that cryptic light flashing nonsense. Do you have an ODBII scan tool you can use or borrow to pull codes that way? Is there any significant corrosion on the battery terminals or either end of the battery cables?

P0607 doesn't exist, you sure that's the correct code? Is your coolant level low by any chance?

That's what I get for posting at 2 am. I should have known that the 2001+ R50 bellhousing would not match up. One more thing I thought of: if you decide to use the stock cooler in the bottom of the radiator, be sure to clean it out. This TSB has instructions: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/TSB/NTB00-056b%20-%201988%20AND%20LATER%20NISSAN%20VEHICLES%20AUTOMATIC%20TRANSMISSION%20OIL%20COOLER%20CLEANING.pdf

This thread claims 2001 and newer R50s also have the -HD trans: http://www.nissanpat...on-information/

A 2001+ Pathfinder or Xterra will have the HD version of the trans, so if you look into doing a straight swap be sure to get either of those. I don't have any other advice to offer regarding the rebuild itself. However, after it's done, install a Magnefine in-line filter to keep the fluid clean and to catch any crud from the rebuild process, and think about installing an auxiliary cooler to help keep the ATF cooler. Go with a synthetic ATF from the beginning and you should be set.

Yeah, really, Courtesy Parts lists 1 per side. Someone with California emissions post up their VIN so we can look it up in the FAST system and get a definitive answer.

As I said above, the FSM lists both ATF & GL-4 gear oil as usable. Just don't mix the two (in any significant quantity).

A 75W-90 gear oil is suitable to -20F and below and is what the FSM specifies as preferable for the transfer case. 10W-30 engine oil is only listed as suitable down to 0F (for use in the engine, of course). A typical engine oil also does not have the extreme pressure additives that a gear oil has. I think you should put a GL-4 75W-90 in your transfer case.