spazman

I believe most cars have the limiter for what the tires are rated at. At least that's why my dodge stratus had a 105 limiter. My impreza was 135 because it came stock with z rated tires. We never found the limiter on my brothers eclipse. All of these top speeds were found on a track not on the highway. Awesome story by the way and I'm glad you caught the kid. Had people throw stuff out like that in front of me before but nothing actually hit so I can understand how pissed you'd be!

Yeah mine has a couple of things for tire changing, but there are 2 long sockets in there too, one longer than the other. I'll try to take a pic tomorrow. They make the job much easier!

Look in the little black bag under the back set with the jack stuff in it. There are 2 special sockets for the spark plugs.

29091 is the part number. I was averaging just over 15mpg hwy and city before I swapped some on mine, now I'm getting between 18city and 20 hwy. I can definitely tell the deference, it coasts much easier, goes up hills better (my cruise doesn't shut off due to losing speed up hills that I use to have that problem on), and turning is easier. Best $160 I've spent on the beast yet.

The newer pathfinders seem to have a lot of gremlins. I looked into them for my wife when we were looking for something with 3rd row seating. They are affordable but don't seem to have the reliability that the older ones had. Just my .02. I'd keep the pathy and get a sports car or look into a wrx or forester xt 2500lb towing, plenty of room for a dog or the occasional groceries and decent gas mileage.

So are you talking about the bottom of this? It looks like you can get the whole front support to replace. - $74 to $150 new Otherwise the bottom part(#5) is the lower tie bar. - $156 new

I'm with you on this one. I could replace my pathfinder 3 times or buy all the equipment to make my own system for that price! You can't tell me it would take that long to develop an exhaust system, that's what they do!

Kind of figured that. I was almost to that point too! Can't wait to see the hidden antenna, will probably steal your idea when I bend this one!

Yeah what he said, I pushed the rack and all the little black crossbars all the way back, then realized I never use them and took them off and that got rid of even more noise. So take the bars off it cuts down on a lot of wind noise. I have the crossbars on my 06 impreza and the only way to get rid of the whistling was to take them off. The take all but 2 minutes to put back on if you need them.

I helped a buddy change his out yesterday and I think his was doing what it sounds like yours is. What I ended up doing was taking the silver retaining nut off, the black bezel thingy that goes against the fender, then there is a black grommet right above the threaded part, take that off with a little motivation. Then take some pliers as low as you can get on the antenna mast and pull like hell twisting and pulling and it should come right out. Remember the way the teeth come out on the antenna, put the new one in the same direction by sliding the white toothed part down and having someone turn the radio off, it'll suck the mast right down. I thought about it after the fact but should have taken some picture to better illustrate this. The mast that came out didn't have the prongs I spoke of but teh new one did so I don't know what's up with that.

Yeah I felt dumb because I don't drive at night much, just back and forth to work and got done late a coupel days after I did the swap and looked out and had a very confusing moment. My lights are on but something's not right... oh I can't see how fast I'm going?!? WTF! I left the orange ilumination wires untouched and I think they touched some bare metal to pop the fuse. Oh well, it's figured out now, couldn't find anything about it online becuase I was thinking maybe I wired it wrong. I guess you live and learn!

Finally figured it out, if anyone else has this problem you've blown the tail lamp fuse under the hood. Makes sense right? Somehow I missed it the first round of fuse checking.

I changed out my radio a couple of weeks ago with an aftermarket one. Now my backlights for the gauges, a/c don't work but the interior lights work just fine. Checked all the fuses inside and tried to get them to work by bypassing the dimmer switch. Anyone have any ideas? I'm not sure what the hell's going on and it's more of an annoyance to have to turn on the map light if I drive at night to see my speed/fuel levels/etc.

Don't do that chip, they're crap! Most "chips" out there are crap. There is a company out there, I think it's superchip or something, that will reflash your computer based on the mods you've done. As for intakes, most people say stay away just put a drop in K&N filter, others build their own with a MAF adapter, and there is a Jim Wolf pop charger. Best bang for the buck MPG booster are manual hubs either WARN, Rocky Ridge, or Mile Marker. They're cheap ($99 milemarker, $160 rocky ridge, $160- $200 for WARN) and easy to install.

There are a couple of prongs at the base of the antenna that didn't stick on mine but I remember the first time I replaced it I had to reach under the fender up where it goes out and push the prongs down so it'd slide out. I'm probably going to see about getting a none power one next time. I replaced it 8 years ago and went wheeling and forgot to shut the radio off. I hit a tree branch with it and bent it so it would all the way down except the last big section, that's how it sat until I replaced it a couple weeks ago and figured I'd spend the $13 again before I broke it off with it sticking up like that still. Not sure of the lube, I've heard of using a silicon spray type lubricant and also of using wd40 and just wiping the excess off and the film is suppose to be good enough. I'd probably sway to the silicon spray side of things personally if I ever were to do it. (the antenna looks like this where the base widens out at the fender, under the fender there are prongs that stick out) . | <- antenna _|_ <- fender | | | | / \ <-"prong" | |

The actual liner inside the wheel well, the fender itself stays untouched. I didn't take mine all the way out, just took enough of the fasteners off so I could pull the plastis liner back and reach in. It's pretty obvious where the antenna motor is once you get the liner pulled back.

My OME lift gave a rear rake appearance. I'm considering spacers to level it out. BTW, I have stock bumpers so there is no extra weight anywhere on my PF.

I just did mine, Take the nut off the top, turn on the radio, once the antenna raises just pull it out, then thread the new mast down the hole, shut off the radio and it will suck itself down. Now that its on tighten the nut back down and you're good to go. And if it doesn't come out or breaks you have to take your fender liner off to access the antenna motor where you can take the side of that off to remove any broken pieces from in there. I was able to access the motor by just cranking the wheel towards the drivers side and that gave enough clearance to get to it without having to take the wheel off.

Bought mine 5spd from my parents. When they got it new, the dealer was all but giving it away. It was loaded and when it was all through they paid less for it than the auto base model that was next to it on the lot. I just wish it had the 3.5!

I recently did mine and the socket definitely makes life easier. Of course I could not find the one I bought years ago and went to the parts store thinking they've have one. Not so much but there's one for GM's that works, it has 4 prongs though so I just took off 2 with a grinder.

Mine did and from what I can tell everyone did. I've noticed a lot of R50 people have swapped to manual which I was going to do when I did my brakes but ended up having to do the brakes sooner than expected.

Thanks guys, I'm an idiot. I even knew it was there. Everything was seized on everywhere. So I'm still not done swapping all this crap out...

I got a 98 pathfinder with the auto hubs, 160k miles and I doubt they have ever been taken off or the brakes have ever been done. Long story short, brake pads wore down to the caliper on the inside (damn thing not having the warning strip) and now I'm in the process of trying to fix it. I'm new to the weird caliper setup these things have and hubs. I took the 6 bolts off of the hub and can get it to wiggle but it won't come off. Is there a trick to this or a pin or something I'm not seeing? Ive' gone through the other write ups on how to do it and it seems so simple. Let me know if there is a trick or if I just need a bigger hammer...

That worked for me, just got a new (to me) key fob. It took a few times of key dancing but it worked like a charm!