1999R50

Why not just buy my 96 Terrano with QD32Eti and then do a LHD conversion. I brought it over from Japan a few years ago but I need something 7 seater now. http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-Nissan-Terrano-W0QQAdIdZ452476051

Well the fix didn't last. I just replaced it with one from NZ. It was only $150 shipped.

So the tach on my Terrano has been not working properly since I got it here 6 months ago. It would work but be a bit higher then it should, and then fly all the way to red line and then not work at all, all in a matter of 15 seconds. I wasn't concerned because its automatic and running fine. I decided to try and fix it. I took out the tach, 2 screws up the top of the cluster and then 4 to remove the whole assembly. Once it is loose you will see the 4 screws that hold on the tach. One of the top ones is on a connection line that says GND next to it. This screw was not giving a good ground connection to the cluster. I loosed it and played with it while the truck was running and I could see the tach start working and then stop as I moved it. I ended up pushing it to one side and slowly tightening it. My tach is now working normally.

Buy my Terrano http://barrie.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-Nissan-Terrano-Diesel-W0QQAdIdZ386170862

If I sold a set I would have to charge $250.

I imported a 96 Terrano with the QD32Eti engine. It runs great, lots of torque, but shes looking a bit low for my liking. I found on here that the engine mounts are suppose to be the same as the VG33E. I can assure you that they are NOT. I sfd'd my Pathy and I know what the motor mounts are like on it. The spacing for the VG bolt pattern is around 1.5". On the QD they are closer to 3" spacing. Does anyone know where I can find a SFD for the QD? Mud Jayson doesn't seem to want to get back to me...

http://www.omix-ada.com/gear-ratio-vs-tire-size.asp Check it out.

Those are just 31's. I have 33x10.5 BFG A/T's in the garage waiting to go on.

I wouldn't start hacking at your fenders. What I would do is jack up the one side and when the tire is 1/4" from the fender measure to see how big of a bump stop you will need. I know it will reduce the flex, but It will definitely be nicer, unless you are amazing at doing reconstructive body work. Just my opinion...

So after being inspired by people on this site, I decided to make myself a SFD. Thanks to the info available I had all the block dimensions without even pulling a bolt out. The strut spacer geometry was the only tricky part. I actually only spaced the struts 2.125" and the sub frame the full 2.5. This way it brings my cv angle back closer to stock. Here are the strut spacers I believe the angles were 12 degrees and 5 degrees and you can't just simply add them together and divide by two to find the created angle at 45 degrees to the normal axis. If you draw it on a 3D softare you will see that it is closer to 12.5 degrees. I just wire EDM cut the pipe to exactly 12 and 5 so i didn't need to find the angle at 45. Welding them in orentation to the flanges was the confusing part, but I got it and they worked great! My chamber angle is perfect. The steering was a problem. I started with just a block to bridge the gap. Bad idea. It was terrible. My steering was screwed up before which I found out while doing the SFD that the U joint was siezed. So after arm wrestling my steering wheel for a couple days, I took out the block and bolted and welding in a second U joint. It works perfect now. For the rear I used F250 shocks and made some coil spacers from some pipe. Before with OME HD's front fender height of 35.5" and rear 36.5 After front fender height 37 3/4 and rear 39"

I power steering is in and out. I can't seem to figure out what it is. It work some times(not very often) but most of the time turing feels like an arm wrestle. When I pop the hood and turn the wheel while listening, I can hear the pump going. Maybe I just need a new pump.

It probably leaks. But my idle is fine so I don't think it is affecting it. But I will silicone it like you recommended. I wonder if it will help anything?

You went straight from the throttle body eh? Maybe I will moddify mine to do that aswell. Looks good!

It must help. I can now merge into hwy traffic at 80km/h

I think the purchasing market of the WD's and R50s went to the Xterra after 2005 when the R51 came out. The R51 doesn't have the same appeal that the previous versions of the Pathfinder had.

When I built my front and rear bumpers I priced out 2x6 .125 wall tubing. From a small place they wanted $185 for 24'(1 length). I priced out at The Metal Supermarket, a franchise, they wanted $175. I found a place that was a wholesaler that sold to the public, I went there, torched off 1 length into 4 pieces. I paid $106. Go through you local phone book and price out what you need from everyone who sells. You are bound to find someone who isn't trying to make a killing.

I was excited to try it and couldn't get stuck so I just said " I just pull my self up this hill".

Well I purchased a M8000 winch from a guy on CNTC. It came with a trailer hitch mount. This wouldn't do because I don't have a 2" adapter on my front bumper. So I made my own winch mount that would use the handy dandy 5/8-11 tapped holes I put in my front and rear bumpers. Having access to an excellent tool shop in combination with being extremely cheap, I decided to save the $50 for a princess auto fairlead and made my own. It took a couple hours to find all the material, decide how I wanted to go about it and build it. But in the end, it worked well.

All you need to make this one is a chop saw, a disc grinder a welder and a drill press. Everything else is bonus.