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Did this job today and just thought I'd report back for posterity. Also did the front sway bar bushings. Answer to my original post is it's fine to remove both brackets at once and in fact that's what I had to do to get the old bushings out. It's find to do so as the steering rack sits in the lower brackets just fine. The FSM shows the brackets as being vertical but they are actually about 45 degrees tilted and sit somewhat on top of the rack. Ya just gotta prop up the rack to get old bushings out and new ones in using a large screwdriver...but being careful as it is the steering rack. Lots of silicone on the new bushings and they can be pushed around the rack and into place no problem. all went fine including removing TONS of grease laying about. Only problem I had in the overall job is when I went to put the sway bar bracket back in place...and was using new bolts....several of the bolts just began to spin long after they should have tightened. Seems the captive nuts are kinda trashed from rust etc. Got it together but want to see if my local guy can snug them up somehow. Maybe re-tap and use some larger bolts? A new front suspension complete member is $500 just for the part!!

I genuinely appreciate your efforts to assist here...but I have to say I've re-read this post about 4 or 5 times and despite an expensive and under utilized engineering degree and 5 decades stumbling around this planet....I cannot for the life of me translate all of this into what exactly one should do. Here's what I know...The Michelen LTX M/S's I've had on my '97 SE OR for the past 9 years and 100,000 miles indicate on sidewall "max load 2250 lbs at 50 PSI". There is no "recommended" pressure on the sidewall. There is no "recommended" pressure in my owners manual. I checked the pressure today and all tires are right at 34 PSI. After 100,000 miles on these puppies I'm down to and moving past the wear bars and, more importantly, I've never seen such even wear on all four tires...especially not with this kind of total miles. Given the even wear....I guess 34 psi is the "right" pressure...at least from an evenness of wear perspective. Lastly, my dissatisfaction with these tires was road vibration which I'm chocking up to lack of road force balance....and terrible traction in most any kind of condition. Modifying pressure to improve traction I think would likely have resulted in less even wear and/or accelerated wear. But who knows. With respect to where I am on the purchase...It's time to pull the trigger and quit the analysis paralysis so I'm gonna put REvo 2's in 31x10.5 on my 15" rims...and if need be get a second set of tires/rims come spring if I'm not likely the highway manners of the Revo 2's. Figure it's best to have my winter/offroad setup on the 15" rims and my 3 season commuter setup on something like 16" rims. Thanks to all for the guidance and opinions.

Hey, I'm the newb guilty of digging up this thread. As a matter of practice...when I'm new to a forum I try to scan back on old threads for a couple reasons. For one...no one likes it when someone new joins and their first thread started is something like..."my pathy is swaying violently what could it be?" when there are probably 40 or more existing threads on that issue alone including pinned one. Another reason I do it is for my own education....like many folks I know a lot about automotive stuff and then again I don't...so I use back searching or scanning to educate myself. Lastly, when I encounter a thread that seems to me to be left dangling or contradictory to what I think I know I dig it up like this one...why? Well because we all encourage newbs to use the search feature and isn't it better for them to encounter accurate and fully concluded discussions...rather than incomplete or possibly incorrect info? Anyway...back to regularly scheduled programming.... The symptoms and evidence presented here sound a lot to me like the lack of a road force balance....yet after a dozen or so responses no one has gone there. Anyone know why this is NOT a road force balance issue? Anyone else think it could be?

AFAIK....the lower links are the biggest culprits to death wobble. I believe they take more of the stress and so go sooner or more often than uppers. For one thing I believe the longer length of lower links means the same twist applied to both creates greater torque on the lower links as compared to uppers. How did I know I needed uppers done again last year? Welt....it was at my stealership for state inspection in March and the dealer told me so...I had no ability in my schedule to do em myself and at the time was still new enough to the area that I didn't know a more..... say...customer friendly place to get an inspection sticker from...I do now.

Jasonb, That's a bit clearer....I'm not sure what the incremental $260 for the rugged rocks links gets you ...besides you like them...but my guess is they are a lot stronger which is important for the hard core offroaders. I figured you were doing your own labor which I highly recommend. For those considering having a dealer do the work...just be sure to grab your ankles and walk in there backwards...saves some time!! Zoiks! This might not be any help to you but here's my experience...original owner of 97 SE OR. In 2004 did the lower links myself by just swapping replacement OEM links in...at the time the upper links looked a bit complicated....harder to get to... for me so had a dealer do those. Last year I needed upper links again so again had the dealer do them...last time for that!!! Last month I put one piece poly ones in the lower...in a couple years or so plan to replace the uppers with poly ones too. I also put poly one piece ones in the panhard rod but thinking that was a waste as the original 13 year old rubber bushings looked as good as the day they went in. FWIW...also did my rear shocks, front struts and mounts and this weekend front and rear sway bar bushings. I have to say so far I'm happy with the poly bushings. They might ride a bit stiffer but my view is that the R50 is such a squishy ride as it is...it needs all the toughening up it can get. Now just gotta get my new tires and I'll be GTG!!!

This all sounds to me like the well documented road force balance issue....no?

Your post is all kind of confusing to me...for your lower links you are considering $350 + labor to put in the rugged rocks links which indicate they are for offroad use only vs. $90 for poly bushings + labor?? Clearly I'm missing something here....

You had said the M/S in "LTX M/S" stood for multi-surface...so is it multi-surface? or mud + snow? or both? What I meant by "not caring about load carrying capacity" was....my understanding is that the whole purpose of light truck designated tires is that they have greater load carrying capacity than passenger designated tires. Being as my '97 SE is my daily driver most often carrying me and me alone ...I have no need for greater load carrying capacity. And if a trade off of the greater load carrying capacity of an LT tire is that is not as smooth a ride as a passenger tire....then it seems to me I want to avoid an LT tire if at all possible. If all the above it true and accurate....being as my OEM tires are 265/70-15's....which translates to overall diameter of 29.6" and width of 10.43"...wouldn't I be better off getting some 16" rims so I can stick with a passenger flavor of the Revo 2 in a P265/70-16 which is 30.1" H x 10.2" W??? rather than go with an LT in 31"?? ETA: BTW...WTF is up with 50K miles warranty on passenger Revo 2's and zippo for warranty on LT Revo 2 tires? Why the heck is that??

Thanks to all...some good insights here. Laxman...curious why you'd go with a dual summer/winter setup and use essentially the same tire being an A/T for both? I'm contemplating moving to a dual setup myself. Edwinsyip, thanks a ton for all that detail. You know it amazes me that "M/S" stands for multisurface....I think Michelin intends consumers to believe it is a mud and snow setup...nowhere that I can find on their website does it state what M/S stands for. My dissatisfaction with the Michelins could very well likely be atributed to the fact that I learned about load force balancing just this year....after 9 years of riding on the Michelins!! The michelins had the steering wheel wobble from day one. It also may be due to struts. I replaced the OEM struts in October of 2003 after putting close to 40K miles on the Michelins...but at that time did not replace the any part of the strut mounts. When I put my new KYB struts on last month myself I replaced the entire original strut mounts which at that point were 13 years old...which were quite tired and the struts were so warn the strut rod just sank down into the strut on gravity alone. Anywho..fast forward to today. I hate the whole tire code system despite understanding it well. I do have the option of going to a dual setup with say some Revo 2's for the winter....then pick up something the Gen'l Grabber or whatever for my summer/on-road setup. So right now I can put Revo 2s on my OEM wheels or on some new wheels and go with like a 16" if that'll give me better size options with the Revo 2's. But I don't necessarily have to decide that now...meaning I could put the Revo 2's on my OEM wheels...which I guess only option is the 31's...then if I don't like the highway ride I can get myself a whole new summer setup next spring...tires and wheels. Load carrying capacity means nothing to me...all I care about is sizes that fit..which I don't know why I have to go to an LT to get something that fits...great snow performance. There's no one tire that does it all...which is why I'm contemplating a dual setup. Anyone running a dual setup that they love? It's always a saga buying tires isn't it..thus so many threads about the process. It's virtually impossible to do too much research. But at some point ya gotta say no mas. I'll say this...reason I want Revos is...if you go to say tirerack.com....for pretty much any tire you can find many positive and negative reviews...but with the Revos there are very few negative reviews and so many people RAVE about them. And one recent review I read said they are very well behaved on the higheay for an A/T design...thus my thinking that I might be happy with them 12 months a year. Edit to add: Another reason to go with the dual setup is that with the 16" or even 17" wheel I could possibly get into the Revo 2's without having to get a light truck tire that I neither want nor need.....as I believe the LT 31s are my only option on my OEM 15" wheels?

Thanks man. Kind of begs the question why they still making the originals?

Thanks for the input and opinions. I'm kinda settled on the Revos (more on that in a bit)...and was curious on the branding/positioning on the Revo 2s....wasn't sure if they were a companion to the Revo in the product line or more like a successor...sounds like a successor. And on that front...sometimes companies will mess with a good think in an attempt to improve it but in the end only F it up big time (think New Coke). So hoping the Revo 2's are truly as good or better than the Revo. As I had said I was set on the Gen'l Grabbers after many months of research but local tire guy I like to use says he can't find any in the pipeline til October...suppose I could go tirerack.com....but honestly had read so much about Revos I did a bit more research and deciding on them. The first 40K on my '97 SE were on some cheapo OEM Duelers. Being as I ski and camp a lot I wanted to trade off a bit of highway comfort for snow performance in the LTX M/S 31s. Have to say those were VERY unimpressive. Not a great ride on the highway but didn't get the snow performance I was hoping for. And they are slip all over the place in any rain..can get the rear LSD slipping like crazy on the slightest of inclines. Reason they are so bad in the rain is they are so hard rubber...which is the good news....I have 100K miles on them and still rolling. Best snow tire I ever had was BFG All Terrain's on my old '84 Bronco. Considered going with them but don't think I wanna go that aggressive unless I make them a dedicated winter/offroad set up as my Pathy is my daily driver 35 minutes each way to/from work...live in PA. So have read these Revo's are very well mannered on the highway for an AT tire. And that's where I'm at..for now. Thanks again for the edumacashun!!!

'97 SE OR...due up for tires...was going to do Gen'l Grabbers but can't seem to get a hold of them. Rethinking going with the Revos since I've read so much good stuff about them. Have 15" wheels and originally 265/70-15's..but just finishing up Michelin LTX M/s 31s..the Revos don't come in 265/70-15so figure I'll do the 31"x10.5s....but I'm trying to figure out...Are the Revo 2 the successor to the Revo? Seems there's very few size options in the Revo and none that will fit my Pathy. But Revo 2's are avail in the 31". This is my daily driver but I need it to get me around the mountains for camping and especially skiing so need good snow performance. Should I not worry about difference between the REvo and REvo 2?? Basically the same thing?

Well that's pretty dang interesting....I'll first state that yes I DO know how to use a clutch....but I am original owner of a '97 SE and I replaced original clutch in 2003 at 70K miles....put the next one in about 40K miles later in fall of 2007....zoiks! Both done at dealer...I'm thinking if it fails again I should do it myself.

Thanks Precise1. I did some searching before posting...and just did some more rigorous searching of that forum. Did find some useful info but not quite what I'm after. Reason for my questioning is...I'm presuming if I have to remove both brackets simultaneously....then wondering if I might mess up the alignment? Or will it go back on right where it was because maybe the bushing/bracket slot will index the rack right back to where it was. I need to get new tires and alignment ...probably this week...and do want to replace the rack bushings but won't have them for another few weeks and don't want to have to do two alignments. So just want to nail down whether I could/should do one bracket/bushing side at a time or does it not matter? Never did steering work before...many other things though. Also, anyone know a source for poly steering rack bushings? Or is OEM rubber my only/best choice.

For the work they'll be doing the price is actually quite good. Dealers will charge in the vicinity of $500 just to replace two links...they usually will not replace just the bushings as they say they'd have to charge more...or maybe they are just lazy. Either way...I've done this job myself...twice...first time I replaced the entire links. A few weeks ago I finished the second replacement...went with the one piece poly ones from AC..just did lower links and panhard rod ones...uppers were done by dealer a year ago with replacement links. I've NEVER heard/read of poly ones cracking...in fact many peopld swear they'll last a long long long time...AND provide "better" ride than rubber. So bottom line...the price for the work quoted is good. Panhard rod usually doesn't need to be done...but I just did mine since I was in the mindset. If you decide you want to go poly...ask the garage if you can supply thme and have them put them in instead of the rubber...or do it all yourself...lots of threads on here about how to do that. Whatever you do...be VERY careful dealing with AC (4x4parts.com)...be sure of your order in advance...hope you don't have to change/return anything...shop around on their prices where there are alternative sources (which in the case of poly bushings there are not many/any)...double check any technical info you get from them...and watch them like a hawk. ETA: Question...your subtitle states "$800 for labor" but your post states $700-$800 parts and labor" Which is it?

I am original owner of '97 SE OR. The steering gear bushings/insulators look kinda tired and I'm wanting to replace them. Can I just do one side at a time by unbolting the bracket, sliding out the old bushing, put the new bushing in place, put bracket back on and then do same on other side? Or do I need to remove the entire steering gear assembly..both brackets simultaneous in order to be able to get the old bushings out and new bushings in place? Thanks in advance for any guidance.

What are you saying is "not quite true"?? It is a fact that Rancho no longer produces a shock DESIGNED/INTENDED for the R50 Pathfinder. It is a fact that the RSX17000 (previously made for R50s) is no longer produced ....due to disappointing in sales in case anyone was curious. It is a fact (or at least it was as of two weeks ago) that there are some RSX17000s still in the pipeline. It is a fact that 4x4parts.com indicates the RS5000's are for the R50 and they are not. And as I clearly stated one can get an RS5000 onto an R50 but they won't fit the lower bracket/bolt the way they should. I can also get the engine from my Harley to "fit" into my R50 engine compartment. Guess it depends on one's definition of "fit".

You actually don't need all that much. I spent $130 on a 20 ton shop press at Harbor Freight...and $55 on a torque wrench..had one but needed another ...still saved a few hundred even with those costs. Other tools were a vise..hammer...socket set with a nice 30" of pipe for breaker bar....and other than jack and jack stands....can't think of much else ya need. I'm doing more and more of my own work as I'm tired of getting a sore backside from dealers and garages ...many of whome are clueless....but it ain't for everyone....I know I had to give it up for years when the kids were being born and very young.

It is NOT a fun job...did mine in 2004 and replaced the whole link...only to have to do it again this month. Went with poly ones from AC...so don't expect to do it again as long as I own my 97. There are lots of threads out there on how to do this job....which BTW...no matter which bushings you get you'll save hundreds of $$$$ over having a dealer do the job for you. Even if you buy full replacement links you still save some good bucks.

Looks like you have an R50 in which case Rancho no longer makes a rear shock for them. They DID make the RSX17000 but have discontinued them...BUT...there are still some in the pipeline if you can find them. Just got mine from 4x4parts.com...and on that note...4x4parts.com indicates the RS5000s are for R50's...they are not....you can get them in...but they won't fit in the lower bracket the way they should.

'97 SE OR original owner. Exhaust (2nd one) is holding up but I suspect will start failing in the near future. Being as the VG33E engine is so pathetically weak I'm seeking any performance mods I can. Have been searching pretty far and wide for a performance exhaust and (like every other performance mod) perf exhausts are out there for post-R50 and WD21 Pathy's but NOTHING for my poor R50. Anyone know of any R50 performance exhausts to help the VG33E breathe a bit better? I'd hate to have to spend all that $$$ again for another OEM or aftermarket equivalent set up that won't get me any perf gains. I'd love to do a cat back deal...not all that interested in headers as I don't want to deal with added cabin noise...which is good cause no one makes those either. Thanks in advance for ANY info.

Question on the strut mounts....I have my 97 SE apart in the driveway with KYB GR-2's ready to install and OEM strut mounts. Do you all recommend replacing EVERY part of the OEM strut mounts??? There's like 7 or 8 parts to the mount. I ended up getting them all....for a grand total of over $250 for both mounts from Courtesy Nissan. I had my original struts replaced about 6 years ago and checked the paperwork and looks like they did not replace ANY parts of the mounts so believe what I just took off the vehicle is 13 years old as far as mounts are concerned. After breaking down my old ones...my observations are as follows: -spacers - definitely needed -upper insulator - probably needed...seemed kind of ok but tough to assess wear and Courtesy said most folks replace these when doing struts -bearings - actually seem quite fine...but I already have the replacement ones for $64 a pair...wish I could save that $$$ but don't want to cheap outand regret later so will probably throw them in. Another part Courtesy said frequently replaced every time struts are done. -top rubber spring seal - amazingly after 13 years the ones that were in there seemed just fine for a piece of rubber...would have expected them to be more dry and cracked. But for $32 and have them already so will likely throw them in. -bottom rubber spring seat - well this is kind of more like a piece of plastic..old ones don't seem too bad...but new ones are going in anyway -bracket front strut insulator..lower...Didn't order these originally but lower part of the plate had some corrosion and the rubber part inside was starting to come apart a bit so I got those...they function as other half of the upper insulator so seems prudent to replace. Also replacing all nuts and bolts. Hope this post helps someone...and curious if anyone has any observations from doing this job themselves. What I learned is that when someone says OEM strut mount....there's a LOT of parts that go into that...not to mention $$$$$$$$$$$. But in my case where they all had a good 13 years of service on them...figured best to replace more parts rather than less....particularly being as I'm doing the job myself. I can only imagine what a dealer would charge to do a strut job where they replaced both struts and ALL parts of the mount including nuts and bolts....that's GOTTA be a $1,000 job give or take.

Thank you.

To anyone interested....I have a '97 SE and once the OEM Duelers were done at 40K miles I put on the Mich LTX's in p265/70-15....got just shy of 100K miles out of them!!! no joke. But you don't get that kinda treadlife without accepting as somewhat less comfy ride. Get your money's worth though!!! Course at this point the wear bars are showing and won't pass inspection. Gonna try the Gen' Grabbers HTS next up.

Newbie here....I was so excited to find this thread so I could finally figure out WTF is an SFD!! Seen it in many posts related to suspension...but can't figure it out to save my life....anybody? Thanks.