BIGFINDERMAN

Few more pics. Paint is done.

Got the rack pretty close to done. Got the light tabs welded on and sprayed with bed liner. Got to put another coat on it. Gonna put a 24" light bar on the front and a 7" on each back corner.

Not at all man! Precite it.

Thanks man. Went back and installed some Rivnuts in the middle holes of the track. I didn't really feel good about the red moly inserts. She is tight now.

Few more.

Been working on a roof rack. Gona mount the spare up there and 1 30" LED light bar on the front and probably 2 small ones on the back.

Thanks man. I have quite a few more plans for her. Im working on a roof rack now. The springs are from Bronco Graveyard. They are Dever Superflex 5 1/2 lift for a 66-77 Bronco ID # 13208. Linear rate with spring rate of 190 lbs. per inch. They feel great so far. I dont really have enough seat time with them to give a full review. On the road they feel good and sturdy, and flex very well from what i have done around the house. Haven't been on any trails yet. The shocks are Bilstein 33-185569. 29.7 extended and 17.9 collapsed. 12" stroke.

I agree with the addition of a truss. It is kind of a pain due to space, but it will give you added strength. You dont want that mount tearing loose when your rolling 50 down the road back from the trails. You could at least build up to your existing mount with some 1/4" plate and get a good strong weld on both sides. See pic below.

How do you have your panhard mounted to the frame? Also, i think that upper link is gonna give you some problems being so short. If i did it over again, i would have modified my trans crossmember again to where i could make the upper the same length as the lowers. It keeps the angle of your diff consistent with your output on the transfer case. I see some binding issues happening with your upper being that short and angled up. What size tires are you planning on running?

Click on enlarge photo. Might help. http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-1029.htm

Took the pathy to my buddies tire shop and got some numbers pulled on the alignment. He said everything looked fine and was in spec. Whats your guys thoughts? Also went by the local jy and pulled a factory roof rack off of a 92 pathy. Got it cleaned up and installed. Had to shorten it side to side about 1.25" and length wise about an 1/8th. Drilled 2 holes on each side and used some moly anchor inserts for the 2 inside mounting holes. Turned out pretty good. It will be much easier to build a rack off this one than the factory 88 rack.

No problem bud. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. I'll do my best to help you out. I hear ya on waiting for the parts delivery man!

There is alot of information over on pirate about the effects on the upper being on the driver side vs passenger. But the general consensus is to put it where it fits the best. My driveshaft is from an xj. I shortened it up and made an adapter plate to attach to the spicer flange. I copied nissanuts work. I noticed that rugged rocks offers a replacement flange that will adapt straight to a 1310 or 1350 cv shaft. https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-tx10-front-cv-flange-yoke-by-rugged-rocks-1987-1995-p-58744.html

Im not an expert on link suspension but i can just say that i followed suit from all the other sas nissan guys. On the vg30i the starter is kinda in the way on the passenger side. You also have all your fuel lines and misc. lines running on the inside of the passenger frame rail, which might interfere with you upper link mount bracket. It really just depends on where you can efficiently fit everything. Im sure some other guys will chime in and add better info on your question.

Little update. Haven't had much time to work on the ole girl. I did do a tune up, rebuild the throttle body, install a new radiator, and pcv valve. That pcv valve is a fun little bugger. It is not bad getting it out, but is a pain to put back in unless you have small hands. I am trying to work out a little miss that it seems to have at idle and occasionally when you hammer it off idle. I am taking it to my buddies tire shop Friday and get some numbers pulled on the alignment. I am going to have to install some camber shims. I drove it around a little the other day and noticed the inside tread of the tires were fresh.

Yea it does have cruise. Didn't think about that. It appears to have not been hooked up for a while. Thanks for the info bud.

Got a few questions for you guys. I just got done rebuilding the throttle body on the pathy. Installed new orings and gaskets. Also replaced some old vacuum lines. My question is i found an open vacuum line with nothing hooked to it. It is behind the throttle body right beside the egr valve. With the motor running, i can fill it pullling a vacuum. This sensor, or whatever it is, also has a vacuum line coming off the top that runs to the bottom of the air filter base. See attached picture. I have no idea what it is called or what goes there. Also, there is a vacuum line hanging in that area that routes back to the passenger side firewall. I dont know where it is supposed to go either. See attached picture. Thanks in advance.

Thanks man. I have a lot of plans for it. Just takes time!

Few more pics.

Few more.

Went by the local offroad shop to measure some disco's. Ended up buying a set of rough country 2.5" lift for a tj. I think its going to work out just right. It is tight, but everything clears. I took it for a little drive after i got everything mounted and it is definitley stiffer. I have more pics but my computer is acting up. Here are a few that i got uploaded.

Yep should have mentioned that. Works like a champ!

Thought i would add some info on my removal process for cam seals, or really any seal for that fact. I always use a small wood screw. Screw that puppy right in the center of the seal lip, grab a pry bar or something for leverage, grab the screw with some pliers and she will pop right out. I just got done doing a timing belt swap on my 88 pathy and i had both cam seals out in about 30 seconds. Just my .02 cents.

Thanks man! The wrangler sway bar is still a little to wide the way i have it setup. On a wrangler its mounted on top of the frame and swings down, so the tires wont come into contact with it. With it like this, at full lock the tires rub a little. I plan on getting some new wheels one day with a little less backspacing built in to give me a little more clearance.

Been working on a sway bar setup. I did some research on different factory bars and ended up getting one off of a 2000 wrangler. I wanted it to stay up tight to the frame and be able to disconnect and swing out of the way. Its tight with everything under there, but i think its going to get the job done. I have to find some disco's now that are the right length. Probably going to go with the new style rough country disco's.