87pathmaker

You guys are awesome, I didn't think to check courtesy parts... i thought they only dealt with newer model nissans. Just incase anybody is every curious, I also ran across these from Spencer Low Racing for the d21/wd21; Reinforced T-Bar Anchors (a little more than I want to spend, but would be great for somebody looking to do upgraded t-bars and didn't mind spending a little more). http://www.spencerlowracing.com/products/t...onbaranchor.htm

That would be great!!!! Do you have a paypal address? Or, pm me your physical address and I'll send you whatcha want for it!

I actually googled and found that before posting this... After checking out their "illustration" things just don't look right, and there is no description of whether it's a front or rear anchor just that it's an "anchor." So even though tempted, I closed the page before I made the wrong decision I really appreciate your help though!

Well, I've been searching for days. Napa doesn't have anything in their system that is anywhere near what I'm looking for (they're the only parts supply store in the town I live in), and I can't find anything online for the part. I've stripped out the front passanger side Torsion bar anchor, and need to replace only it.. the splines on the t-bar are 100%. It'd be much easier to find the part if I knew the part #. Can anybody help? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

I'd just check the fore and aft torsion bar anchor points, if you jack it up, you'll be able to tell what you're looking it... very simple setup. I don't know for sure, but I'd say that if the bar is still set in the anchors, you're looking at the same scenario as I am. IF it's just dislodged (which I doubt is even feasable under normal suspension compression), you should be able to reset it in the anchor that it's out of after checking to make sure that everything is still in good working order (no stripped threads).

You know how earlier in this thread I mentioned that the bar popped out after hitting a log while overcoming it? I think that may be the culpret (albeit 2 years ago!?) At that point the bar had completely extracted itself from the front socket, so I checked the torsion bar, everything looked fine.. reinserted it and went. Maybe that's where the problem was. The bar could potentially be bent as previoulsy said... my eyeball level says no, but being that the torsion bar is rather long, even a marginal bend in the bar could affect how far it is inserted into the socket, and being that the end of the torsion bar's threads are slightly tapered, that could have caused it to strip out if not fully seated. I dunno.. it's an easy enough fix, but I may have found a free Waggy D44

This is exactly what happened to me.... Either the bar completely unseated itself or the anchor is stripped out... I'm not sure what they mean by the torsion bar "went." I don't think we have enough in our pathys to rotate a torsion bar to the point where it breaks

Great Information! Thanks! I absorb pretty quickly I would assume that a progressive torsion bar would be the same tensile strength material, just tapered. I know that's how progressive springs work, I've used them on my track cars in the past, and coils are thicker at the bottom than at the top.

Ok... so... managed to get the torsion bar out, just let the jack down to about half the level it was at to put some compression on the control arms, which moved the rear anchor back to a postion where I could move it. I found the problem, half of the front anchor was fully stripped out. WTF.. I'm not really sure how the hell this happened. The torsion bar threads look fine. I'm pretty confused... I'll go ahead and order a new front anchor. OR I might just say f-9k it and look for d44. Will any year wd21 anchor work? I'm only assuming they would because of the interchangeabililty of torsion bars. Is there another part name for the front anchor? When I do a parts search, I can only find torsion bar anchor, no front or rear descriptions.

Ok... so I finally had time to play with the pathy today. I jacked it up, the c-clip is still on the rear anchor/passanger side torsion bar, and i'm not sure how, but the anchor re-indexed itself where it had been adjusted to orginally. Now, I can't figure out how to lodge the anchor loose, because there is reverse tension on the torsion bar... wtf? Anybody have any ideas?

So by preloading the bar by cranking it, you're not going to feel any difference in ride quality? Is it just the change in the front suspesion geometry that I'm feeling? Just curious.

BFE is an old military slang acronym that means "Bum *my "vocabulary" is so small* Egypt" there is no "Butt" involved, it just means in the middle of nowhere. Seriously, if you decide to ferry up, just swing in and say hi while you're layed over in wrangell for the 45min to an hour that you're docked... On the otherhand, if you're going to do the road trip america thing... things to see, Black Hills, Yellowstone, Rocky Mountains, the Mississippi... Swing through Vegas, before heading north, drive the california coast (Pacific Coast Hwy/California State Rt 1). Before you do that drive through the Sequoia's in the Sierra Nevadas, then after drive through the Redwoods of Norcal... It's all a beautiful experience.

Completly Understood I was just stating that every one of my Nissans has had touchy afm syndrome, and ususally trying to force too much air through (blow through) seems to mess with them and cause Fuel/Air Issues.

I would suggest 3." That is more than enough for adequate airflow, but also doesn't mean that your piping will block all of your view forward of the a-pillar. Ultimatly, the airflow is going to be restricted at the throttle body, and going with anything wider than that is not going to do anything for your performance.. The ram air-effect will only be noticed at speeds above 30-40mph, and at speeds much over, the pathfinder is a brick anyways, and you'd need a lot more hp than what it would produce to notice anything. I've never had a nissan (built performance cars albeit) benefit at all from a ram air effect. Some actually caused issues with the electronics.

As previously mentioned, you could take the Alaska Marine Highway system from Bellingham, about 60 miles north of Seattle, that will run you all the way through SE Alaska's Inside Passage, as far north as Anchorage. It's a three day or so trip on the Ferry, and I'd suggest getting a state room, and the price of the trip would be comparitive to the cost of driving the Alcan with current gas prices (which will be as high in some places on the AlCan as $7/gallon this summer). The Ferry Trip is considered one of the US's Scenic Byways, and I can attest (I've done the Wrangell-Ketchikan Trip a few times) on a nice day, you will WISH that you die in a place this beautiful as you're one step closer to heaven (see a couple of my pictures posted in the picture section of some of SE Alaska's Views). The only issue you're going to run into is getting on one, they're usually really booked for the summer, and this year the United State's Hottest Governer (google Gov. Palin) is allowing the AMHS to cut it down to one run a week from Bellingham to Skagway (where you would get off and head to the next ferry that took you further North). I personally don't think you need to worry about a gun unless you plan on deliberatly camping in bear country during sow birthing season. And to put down a large bear or moose you better be packing a .44mag or BIGGER (.454 ruger, .50 S&W), otherwise all you'll do is make a big noise before you're trampled/mauled, and you'd better be accurate with the first shot because those size pistols are pretty hard to reset after their recoil. OTOH, you'll find that once you get to Alaska, the Gun laws are EXTREMELY liberal (as are most of the laws here, and there aren't really enough cops to enforce most of them anyways). If you're a Registered Alaskan, you don't even need to apply for a license to carry a concealed pistol. IF you are going to attempt the 5k (+) mile drive, be prepared for anything that you would normally think couldn't happen, cause it will (and in the middle of BFE) Good luck! and "Welcome To Alaska" When you get up here. IF you decide to try and get on the AMHS, make sure you stop by the Stikine Inn (the primary property in my p.m. firm) in Wrangell, AK (about 90 miles north of Ketchikan, and your first stop thereafter), and ask for Jake (that's me) I'll show you my Pathy's battle scars and buy you a half pound burger (just one, i'm a cheapass).

Exactly... Basically, I don't think you'd notice a huge difference between a proper torsion bar for the height of the vehicle and a stock t-bar cranked. I'd just assume that the stock t bar would obviously start to wear and sag at a faster rate than normal due to the increased stress..

The ride will feel a little stiffer (mine did) when you crank the stock t-bars. I'm assuming (no physics expert) that the "torsion" affect is progressive.. it has to work harder to maintain the more aggressive load put on it by raising the vehicle, and as doing such will be pre-loaded to a higher "torsion" rate so will feel stiffer... especially since raising the vehicle means that there will be a little more motion for the torsion bar it would have to twist further to max out the suspension flex further increasing the spring rate throughout the range of motion.

I'll get it home and pull it off. After the first incident the T-Bar was not bent... I've put about 4-5K miles on the rig since it popped out last. I'm pretty confused?? I'll check the adjuster clips.. that may be the issue. It may be time for an upgrade here, as these are the factory t-bars (no real sag though).

Ok... So About 2 years ago, I was on a pretty serious trail, and my t-bar popped out (passanger side) of socket.. I didn't know what it was at the time, but figured it must have hit part of the obsticle that I was trying to overcome and just pulled it out of socket. Well, today, pulled into the local gas station, and there is a large dip that compressed my right front suspension, and the t-bar popped "slipped" enough to drop the suspension about 4". I'm a little confused... this is a pretty dangerous situation, I regularly drive 50-60 mph on the way home at night and a t-bar popping out on a corner would put me in the water or on the beach (neither of which would probably be right side up...) Could this have something to do with my lift? TM 4" Or a loose front end component? I've never heard of this happening before... Thanks!

100% True.. "purpose built" vehicles are slowly becoming a thing of the past. Now manufacturers are overwheling themselves by trying to produce "do it all" vehicles that only "do it all" in a mediocre fashion. But that is what the consumer wants, because that's what the reviews say they should have.

No OT for me.. I'm salary+plus profit share with option to buy in, and last year we didn't turn a large enough profit (after our remodel expenses) to share anything, lol.. since it's family, I'm kind of ball and chained, I just have to keep telling myself "it'll be worth it!"

I Agree... I'd rather see Nissan develop their own Diesel.. They've always done an excellent job with engine development in the past. The Cummins and The Powerstroke are both great diesels... once again everything boils down to maintainance. I just prefer an inline 6 to a v8 diesel. Hell, I'd love to see Nissan co-develop a titan with CAT or even Deer! I will be looking into a full size truck in the next year or so (crew cab) that will also be my daily driver up here in Alaska. It has to do three things: Haul (dirt, applicances, build-demo waste), Tow 8-10k pounds and Seat at least 5... and I'd really like to do it for less than $50k (Ford/Chevy), and I'm not a big fan of Dodges overall build quality. If Toyota really does throw a Hino (8.0L Inline Six FTW) with a Six Speed in their Tundra, I may have to spring for it and spend a little extra (especially if they offer the flat-black model...mmmm). I DO think that it would be a really bad idea for Nissan to partner up with Chrysler for any other reason lol. I did mistake that for a personal attack, I apologize... My business runs me 7 days a week, 12 hrs a day.. I have a problem taking everything personally at the end of the day and turn into a "rock'em sock'em." I don't know how my Fiance Puts up with it... Waiting on my Gym Equipment to get up here is Killing me lol (my method for aggression dissipation has always been lifting, unfortunatly there is not a fully equiped gym where I'm at).

Thanks.. But it didn't need correction. Different strokes... Bottom line, Full size pickups have one of the largest markets in America... The Titan is a young concept (only 4 years now), and through it's shortcomings Nissan is doing a pretty good job of selling them. A diesel will just broaden the appeal. A cummins would enable an even larger towing capacity for the Titan, would give better gas mileage and hold the resale value a bit better... and "cummins" by now is a household name. I have not purchased a full size yet only because there is nothing out there that overwhelmingly appeals to me... I think that the Titan is the best looking truck on the market, has a great interior, and well, it's a Nissan... all it needs is a better rear axle and a diesel. You thinking that Full Size Pickups are "Gay" isn't going to stop Nissan from producing them, so there is no point in being ignorant and bashing something that doesn't appeal to you.

They more than likely are talking about the possibility of a cummins diesel in the Titan... if they do that, they will upgrade the drivetrain as well... that's a good thing folks. Cummins Titan= Badass. I'd buy one.

I've always been curious about how the pathy would do as a baja vehicle. If you were to convert to 2wd, do you think it woudl be possible if you removed the front differential, to maybe retro fit a long arm setup from another similar ifs truck? Maybe you could lengthen the upper mounts to be the same width as the lowers, mount them where the lowers exist... mock up a cage frame where the diff was, and mount some long arms.. then you'd just have to fab mounts for the coilovers (which you could do just like with a sas kit), and redo the steering Hoop dreams lol