87pathmaker

I'm scared to the point of wanting to get out of business and get back in to a 9-5er where I can benefit from his socialistic policies..

schizophrenia is a bitch.. one of my dishwashers is schizo.. funny as hell to listen to his stories though If I were you i'd get rid of all your strange pictures on the net, because if somebody REALLY wanted to screw with you, all they'd have to do is print one out and put it in his mailbox

Funny, I'm listening to Killswitch right now "My last serenade" I do number crunching better when I'm listening to metal for some reason.

You guys are awesome, I didn't think to check courtesy parts... i thought they only dealt with newer model nissans. Just incase anybody is every curious, I also ran across these from Spencer Low Racing for the d21/wd21; Reinforced T-Bar Anchors (a little more than I want to spend, but would be great for somebody looking to do upgraded t-bars and didn't mind spending a little more). http://www.spencerlowracing.com/products/t...onbaranchor.htm

That would be great!!!! Do you have a paypal address? Or, pm me your physical address and I'll send you whatcha want for it!

I actually googled and found that before posting this... After checking out their "illustration" things just don't look right, and there is no description of whether it's a front or rear anchor just that it's an "anchor." So even though tempted, I closed the page before I made the wrong decision I really appreciate your help though!

Well, I've been searching for days. Napa doesn't have anything in their system that is anywhere near what I'm looking for (they're the only parts supply store in the town I live in), and I can't find anything online for the part. I've stripped out the front passanger side Torsion bar anchor, and need to replace only it.. the splines on the t-bar are 100%. It'd be much easier to find the part if I knew the part #. Can anybody help? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

I'd just check the fore and aft torsion bar anchor points, if you jack it up, you'll be able to tell what you're looking it... very simple setup. I don't know for sure, but I'd say that if the bar is still set in the anchors, you're looking at the same scenario as I am. IF it's just dislodged (which I doubt is even feasable under normal suspension compression), you should be able to reset it in the anchor that it's out of after checking to make sure that everything is still in good working order (no stripped threads).

You know how earlier in this thread I mentioned that the bar popped out after hitting a log while overcoming it? I think that may be the culpret (albeit 2 years ago!?) At that point the bar had completely extracted itself from the front socket, so I checked the torsion bar, everything looked fine.. reinserted it and went. Maybe that's where the problem was. The bar could potentially be bent as previoulsy said... my eyeball level says no, but being that the torsion bar is rather long, even a marginal bend in the bar could affect how far it is inserted into the socket, and being that the end of the torsion bar's threads are slightly tapered, that could have caused it to strip out if not fully seated. I dunno.. it's an easy enough fix, but I may have found a free Waggy D44

This is exactly what happened to me.... Either the bar completely unseated itself or the anchor is stripped out... I'm not sure what they mean by the torsion bar "went." I don't think we have enough in our pathys to rotate a torsion bar to the point where it breaks

Great Information! Thanks! I absorb pretty quickly I would assume that a progressive torsion bar would be the same tensile strength material, just tapered. I know that's how progressive springs work, I've used them on my track cars in the past, and coils are thicker at the bottom than at the top.

Ok... so... managed to get the torsion bar out, just let the jack down to about half the level it was at to put some compression on the control arms, which moved the rear anchor back to a postion where I could move it. I found the problem, half of the front anchor was fully stripped out. WTF.. I'm not really sure how the hell this happened. The torsion bar threads look fine. I'm pretty confused... I'll go ahead and order a new front anchor. OR I might just say f-9k it and look for d44. Will any year wd21 anchor work? I'm only assuming they would because of the interchangeabililty of torsion bars. Is there another part name for the front anchor? When I do a parts search, I can only find torsion bar anchor, no front or rear descriptions.

Ok... so I finally had time to play with the pathy today. I jacked it up, the c-clip is still on the rear anchor/passanger side torsion bar, and i'm not sure how, but the anchor re-indexed itself where it had been adjusted to orginally. Now, I can't figure out how to lodge the anchor loose, because there is reverse tension on the torsion bar... wtf? Anybody have any ideas?

So by preloading the bar by cranking it, you're not going to feel any difference in ride quality? Is it just the change in the front suspesion geometry that I'm feeling? Just curious.

BFE is an old military slang acronym that means "Bum *my "vocabulary" is so small* Egypt" there is no "Butt" involved, it just means in the middle of nowhere. Seriously, if you decide to ferry up, just swing in and say hi while you're layed over in wrangell for the 45min to an hour that you're docked... On the otherhand, if you're going to do the road trip america thing... things to see, Black Hills, Yellowstone, Rocky Mountains, the Mississippi... Swing through Vegas, before heading north, drive the california coast (Pacific Coast Hwy/California State Rt 1). Before you do that drive through the Sequoia's in the Sierra Nevadas, then after drive through the Redwoods of Norcal... It's all a beautiful experience.

Yeah, first day out of shop, some asshole backed into a spot and ran into the front end and took off..

I stated that the there was collision damage in the post. Those lenses were cracked along the seams, and I placed tape along the seals to protect the $200 HID bulbs inside from water damage.

Louder than comparably priced airhorns, with no compressor-delay BTW: thats a clean EK, is that a full R conversion or, do you just like the wheels ? I've always wanted to build one, but to afraid of the theft issue that is now plagueing Nissan S-Chassis owners (like myself lol.)

Here ya go (BTW that front end damage is no longer there, had it repaired) Built s13 Blacktop, 8.2:1 Comp Forged Pistons/Rods, 272 i/e cams, gt2871r .86 a/r... Waiting on me to get down to Seattle and Tune it (just running a AFC Neo right now on stock 370 injectors), probably going to go with something conservative like a JWT or Enthalpy ECU and use the piggy back to fine tune the 740cc injectors waiting to be installed. Should see around 400whp on the dyno. BUT I'm selling it Can't bring it up here unless I want it to be completely destroyed in less than a year.

The Daily (what gas prices? it's a writeoff ): The Pathy (not really put to good use anymore): The Track Attacker, and Seattle Vehicle (who needs a rental? This is much more fun):

Completly Understood I was just stating that every one of my Nissans has had touchy afm syndrome, and ususally trying to force too much air through (blow through) seems to mess with them and cause Fuel/Air Issues.

I would suggest 3." That is more than enough for adequate airflow, but also doesn't mean that your piping will block all of your view forward of the a-pillar. Ultimatly, the airflow is going to be restricted at the throttle body, and going with anything wider than that is not going to do anything for your performance.. The ram air-effect will only be noticed at speeds above 30-40mph, and at speeds much over, the pathfinder is a brick anyways, and you'd need a lot more hp than what it would produce to notice anything. I've never had a nissan (built performance cars albeit) benefit at all from a ram air effect. Some actually caused issues with the electronics.

As previously mentioned, you could take the Alaska Marine Highway system from Bellingham, about 60 miles north of Seattle, that will run you all the way through SE Alaska's Inside Passage, as far north as Anchorage. It's a three day or so trip on the Ferry, and I'd suggest getting a state room, and the price of the trip would be comparitive to the cost of driving the Alcan with current gas prices (which will be as high in some places on the AlCan as $7/gallon this summer). The Ferry Trip is considered one of the US's Scenic Byways, and I can attest (I've done the Wrangell-Ketchikan Trip a few times) on a nice day, you will WISH that you die in a place this beautiful as you're one step closer to heaven (see a couple of my pictures posted in the picture section of some of SE Alaska's Views). The only issue you're going to run into is getting on one, they're usually really booked for the summer, and this year the United State's Hottest Governer (google Gov. Palin) is allowing the AMHS to cut it down to one run a week from Bellingham to Skagway (where you would get off and head to the next ferry that took you further North). I personally don't think you need to worry about a gun unless you plan on deliberatly camping in bear country during sow birthing season. And to put down a large bear or moose you better be packing a .44mag or BIGGER (.454 ruger, .50 S&W), otherwise all you'll do is make a big noise before you're trampled/mauled, and you'd better be accurate with the first shot because those size pistols are pretty hard to reset after their recoil. OTOH, you'll find that once you get to Alaska, the Gun laws are EXTREMELY liberal (as are most of the laws here, and there aren't really enough cops to enforce most of them anyways). If you're a Registered Alaskan, you don't even need to apply for a license to carry a concealed pistol. IF you are going to attempt the 5k (+) mile drive, be prepared for anything that you would normally think couldn't happen, cause it will (and in the middle of BFE) Good luck! and "Welcome To Alaska" When you get up here. IF you decide to try and get on the AMHS, make sure you stop by the Stikine Inn (the primary property in my p.m. firm) in Wrangell, AK (about 90 miles north of Ketchikan, and your first stop thereafter), and ask for Jake (that's me) I'll show you my Pathy's battle scars and buy you a half pound burger (just one, i'm a cheapass).

Yeah, I took him in knowing that I would have to. I just new that in a town as small as the one I live in, there is no chance that he would be adopted by a good family in the state that he was in before.

I ended up with this Korelean Bear Dog/Black Lab Mix after my sister-n-law and boyfriend moved out of town. The dog had literally been kept on a 6 foot leash for most of his first year of life outside, and was treated well "when convenient." I felt for him, and took him in. He started out in a pen in the garage, and slowly introduced him to inside life, and then started leash training him. He's extremely exciteable, and fun, but pays attention when commanded but a little skittish. In the last two months I've house trained him, taught him how to army crawl, shake, speak (they didn't allow him to bark so the most I could get out of him was a skittish whimper), go to the door when he has to go, and other basics. He's turned out to be a pretty good dog, and he is much more intelligent than the previous owners said he was. I am actually looking for a good home for him now, I run a business for a good 12-16 hours a day, and Have to run home 3 to 4 times a day to take care of him, and knew from the begining that I would have to give him up once I trained him well enough. Here are some fun pics of him: He likes to lock up his front paws and push them across the kitchen floor for some odd reason (I think he thinks it's ice and is afraid to fall over).. here he is in the act: Here he is looking really mean (while playing): And here he is sticking his tongue out at you: Making his way back in 3 feet of snow, lol.. I couldn't even see him.