tx_flatlander

If 100 people out of a thousand are screaming their heads off about something, you may well think that its the entire crowd thats making the ruckus. In reality, those other 900 people dont have a problem and are therefore silent, yet you cannot hear silence. While a few people holler, shout, and pound their chests at GW, there are obviously more people who dont have a problem with the guy, and that showed at the polls. The silent voiced their opinions where it really matters, at the polls. And not surprisingly, that shouting mob that sounded like the voice of the entire country, turned out to just be the minority. Its the same thing with these "polls" you see ever so often. Most people who are supportive could care less about what a poll says, and therefore pass it up...they stay silent. Where as the opposition will send out chain letters and round up a possee with their torch and pitchforks to go vote on some NBC survey.

^ dude, pop it!

sure seems like it eh? im sorry, chick or not...shes an R-tard. the stupidity of people amazes me. its apparant that she dosent know how oil is related to the engine..yet she goes on to say "it shouldnt have broke JUST because i failed to change the oil" so.....your claiming ignorance...yet your gonna go on to lecture nissan about how it should not have happened. gah its one thing when your wrong..and quite another to go on and on about it and blame someone else for your own mistakes.

dont hook it right up to the stock wiring, do it right and use a relay. also, i wouldnt have it turn on only when the reverse lights are on. my buddy has a dodge that he wired up like that. the only prob is he cant use the aux lights on their own if he has to....say....hook up a trailer in the dark. or if he needs the lighting while he's outside the truck. what i did was put it in a rocker switch to where i could turn the aux backup lights on at any time. youll thank me later

im afriad to dump anything in that would actually CLEAN my engine! at 250K miles i think my engine is being held together by gunk and thats whats stopping any oil leaks

a "cat" is short slang for a catyletic converter. which is often at the bottom of the headers. therefore, a "cat back" exhaust is a system which replaces everything from the cat where the majority of the exhaust system bolts on-all the way to the tail pipe. usually includes a muffler as well as all the piping all pre bent and ready to bolt in.

i seem to recall someone made a "false raised floor" with a huge pull our drawer in the back. also, anyone ever thought about making/altering a set (or even just one) of those boxes for pickups that sit over the wheel hump? my OEM speaker box's are falling apart. i could even see cutting a hole in the lid of the new box's and poping a nice set of aftermarket 6x9's in there. it might not hold alot of bulk, but where it would shine is the everyday small things. like little air compressors, jack, tools, hitches, straps, etc. and for those that do have the over the hump speakers you already have lost that space width wise, might as well make use of it. maybe buying some fit for a truck wouldnt be teh ticket since their so long. but making your own would be a snap if you didnt mind a little gap around the hump here and there.

a few EMT terms... DRT- Dead Right There ART Asuming Room Temperature LOLINAD Little Old Lady In No Apparant Distress other less specific PDT (often referring to a nonspecified torque spec) Pretty Damn Tight BFH Big F'n Hammer

that would be an 06 kawasaki ninja 500r

Unfortunatley its winter. Spring really needs to hurry up!

Mine, which is doing alot of good empty, is mounted in the back in the cargo area. Its right infront of the little "doorway" that leads into the body work on the passenger side held upright by a little "neck" holder bolted to the trim panel.

Just find you a place where there are no lines or wires. I ran the wires for my subs and aux lights on the passenger side. Be sure to use a rubber grommet or something of the sort so you dont end up rubbing a hole in your wires and shorting them out.

Is there any way you can use a bigger MAF? I know some people (mostly sports cars though) use larger GM style. Now that you look at it, the body is rather restrictive.

1. Get a full sized spare tire/rim combo 2. If pulling one additional lever is too much of a workout to open your hatch then yes, maybe its not for you But nevermind all the aforementioned benefits. saftey, ergnomics, flexability, mounting points, etc

Harsh but the man has a point. If you bring home most of the bread, you have a right to a few things of your liking. Your snorkel doing damage to the fundage dept dosent even make a dent in all the scented candles, special soaps/conditioners, shoes, clothes, decorations, etc. Why does it seem like as soon as you get rid of your mother and get married, you end up with another mother (your wife)? And why am I seeing more commercials depicting grown men begging like little boys at a toy store in order to get permission from their wives? Im not some "men are superior and should do whatever they please and the woman should just listen" but GAWD lol!

Im a shorty and have no probs with having a full size spare on the carrier of my pathy. Its also nice to know you have that "cushion" back there if something ever happened and you were to get hit.

Thanks for the tip nessy. I do have access to one, I live in a pretty decent sized city of 175K. Im really dreading things like chaning the VC. Because AGAIN nissan chose to use philips head screws instead of hex head bolts!

So like alot of people here, ive been looking for a good bit more power out of my rig. I have seen L&P's Eataon blower...seems like a crapload of not only bracketry work, but manifold work as well. Not to mention kiss changing your spark plugs goodbye w/o taking the thing off. Ive seen several of the vortec style S/C's and they seem like theyd be much easier to fab up. I would think going the way like L&P did and robbing off of the AC portion of the damper..maybe even using the AC bracket area to hold the S/C itself. For those of you not that famalier, the vortec looks like a turbo, and really IS a turbo which has its "hot" side being driven by a belt and not exhaust. Then you simply run your piping to your TB. So really, the worst of it is mounting, but no mani fabrication and relocating the TB and all that mess. Ok ok, with all that in mind, im sure youd need bigger injectors, but what about a computer? Would our computer start freaking out at the first sign of a (+) mani pressure? If so could we use something like a missing link (used in turbo application of NA cars)?

Hmm, might try the mallet trick. I just dont wanna mess anything up seeing as how this is my only means of transportation through the winter. I would say "screw it" but im pretty certain this is the cause of my light misfiring. And plus the one on there looks a bit toasty.

Nobody here done it huh?

Well, today I did alot of much needed tuning up. I changed my plugs (hate that #6), wire, cap, belts, fuel filter, and I was going to change my rotor as well. So the first problem that arose was that one of the screws (why couldnt nissan have used bolts?!?) stripped and i literally had to break that ear of the cap off. Then I proceeded to atack it with a pair of vice grips. Well all that did was twist off the shank and left some of the bolt still in the threads. so right now its all held with 2 new BOLTS. I read up on here this morning before I left to get parts on changing the rotor. Just remove the little bolt and it pops off. Easier said that done. I removed the bolt and tried by hand with no luck. Next I enlisted the help of a wide flat screwdriver. All this accomplished was denting the little pan. I tried WD-40 and various other lubes to try and help. It dosent want to come off. So, any advice?

Is it a squeel, or a whine? A month or so ago mine developed a rather annoying whine, similar to a SC noise. I tried tightning belts, no dice. Then i felt of my AC/fan belt tensioner and it was warm. Sure enough i pulled the pulley and spun it in my hand. Bearings were shot.

Im also pretty sure that they use some sort of loctite or something. I dont remember my 5 speed shifter being that bad. However, the transfer case selector was a major PITA.

Well, the way I see it is wheather you go hi-comp, turbo, SC your gonna have to run higher octane. There seem to be plenty who would buy a SC if there were one made widley for the vg30E. My question aboug hi-comp was merely wondering if it were possible (if there were pistons made for it) because going hi comp would be alot easier than scrapping together a SC kit. I have been looking around with little sucess for hi comp pistons. Since most vg30 engine upgrades are centered around the 300zx platform, Ive found about the only aftermarket pistons are LOWER compression for running a turbocharger.

What year were they down there? my 91 dosent have it there. IIRC its right under the radio on mine.