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tx_flatlander

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  • Posts

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    its a pathy
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year
    1992

tx_flatlander's Achievements

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  1. dont hook it right up to the stock wiring, do it right and use a relay. also, i wouldnt have it turn on only when the reverse lights are on. my buddy has a dodge that he wired up like that. the only prob is he cant use the aux lights on their own if he has to....say....hook up a trailer in the dark. or if he needs the lighting while he's outside the truck. what i did was put it in a rocker switch to where i could turn the aux backup lights on at any time. youll thank me later
  2. im afriad to dump anything in that would actually CLEAN my engine! at 250K miles i think my engine is being held together by gunk and thats whats stopping any oil leaks
  3. a "cat" is short slang for a catyletic converter. which is often at the bottom of the headers. therefore, a "cat back" exhaust is a system which replaces everything from the cat where the majority of the exhaust system bolts on-all the way to the tail pipe. usually includes a muffler as well as all the piping all pre bent and ready to bolt in.
  4. i seem to recall someone made a "false raised floor" with a huge pull our drawer in the back. also, anyone ever thought about making/altering a set (or even just one) of those boxes for pickups that sit over the wheel hump? my OEM speaker box's are falling apart. i could even see cutting a hole in the lid of the new box's and poping a nice set of aftermarket 6x9's in there. it might not hold alot of bulk, but where it would shine is the everyday small things. like little air compressors, jack, tools, hitches, straps, etc. and for those that do have the over the hump speakers you already have lost that space width wise, might as well make use of it. maybe buying some fit for a truck wouldnt be teh ticket since their so long. but making your own would be a snap if you didnt mind a little gap around the hump here and there.
  5. Mine, which is doing alot of good empty, is mounted in the back in the cargo area. Its right infront of the little "doorway" that leads into the body work on the passenger side held upright by a little "neck" holder bolted to the trim panel.
  6. Just find you a place where there are no lines or wires. I ran the wires for my subs and aux lights on the passenger side. Be sure to use a rubber grommet or something of the sort so you dont end up rubbing a hole in your wires and shorting them out.
  7. Is there any way you can use a bigger MAF? I know some people (mostly sports cars though) use larger GM style. Now that you look at it, the body is rather restrictive.
  8. 1. Get a full sized spare tire/rim combo 2. If pulling one additional lever is too much of a workout to open your hatch then yes, maybe its not for you But nevermind all the aforementioned benefits. saftey, ergnomics, flexability, mounting points, etc
  9. Harsh but the man has a point. If you bring home most of the bread, you have a right to a few things of your liking. Your snorkel doing damage to the fundage dept dosent even make a dent in all the scented candles, special soaps/conditioners, shoes, clothes, decorations, etc. Why does it seem like as soon as you get rid of your mother and get married, you end up with another mother (your wife)? And why am I seeing more commercials depicting grown men begging like little boys at a toy store in order to get permission from their wives? Im not some "men are superior and should do whatever they please and the woman should just listen" but GAWD lol!
  10. Im a shorty and have no probs with having a full size spare on the carrier of my pathy. Its also nice to know you have that "cushion" back there if something ever happened and you were to get hit.
  11. Thanks for the tip nessy. I do have access to one, I live in a pretty decent sized city of 175K. Im really dreading things like chaning the VC. Because AGAIN nissan chose to use philips head screws instead of hex head bolts!
  12. So like alot of people here, ive been looking for a good bit more power out of my rig. I have seen L&P's Eataon blower...seems like a crapload of not only bracketry work, but manifold work as well. Not to mention kiss changing your spark plugs goodbye w/o taking the thing off. Ive seen several of the vortec style S/C's and they seem like theyd be much easier to fab up. I would think going the way like L&P did and robbing off of the AC portion of the damper..maybe even using the AC bracket area to hold the S/C itself. For those of you not that famalier, the vortec looks like a turbo, and really IS a turbo which has its "hot" side being driven by a belt and not exhaust. Then you simply run your piping to your TB. So really, the worst of it is mounting, but no mani fabrication and relocating the TB and all that mess. Ok ok, with all that in mind, im sure youd need bigger injectors, but what about a computer? Would our computer start freaking out at the first sign of a (+) mani pressure? If so could we use something like a missing link (used in turbo application of NA cars)?
  13. Hmm, might try the mallet trick. I just dont wanna mess anything up seeing as how this is my only means of transportation through the winter. I would say "screw it" but im pretty certain this is the cause of my light misfiring. And plus the one on there looks a bit toasty.
  14. Well, today I did alot of much needed tuning up. I changed my plugs (hate that #6), wire, cap, belts, fuel filter, and I was going to change my rotor as well. So the first problem that arose was that one of the screws (why couldnt nissan have used bolts?!?) stripped and i literally had to break that ear of the cap off. Then I proceeded to atack it with a pair of vice grips. Well all that did was twist off the shank and left some of the bolt still in the threads. so right now its all held with 2 new BOLTS. I read up on here this morning before I left to get parts on changing the rotor. Just remove the little bolt and it pops off. Easier said that done. I removed the bolt and tried by hand with no luck. Next I enlisted the help of a wide flat screwdriver. All this accomplished was denting the little pan. I tried WD-40 and various other lubes to try and help. It dosent want to come off. So, any advice?
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