96SE

Hi there, I'm having some trouble with my 96 (VG33E). For the last few weeks it has been starting only intermittently. The starter cranks, but the engine wouldn't catch. It seemed to start better if I blipped the gas pedal, so I put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner (good idea, bad idea, dunno). That was two days ago. Today, it started fine in the morning, started again 6hrs later, and now won't start period. The starter cranks, and I can hear the fuel pump priming, the fuel filter was new last fall, and the air filter is recent (and clean). Once the engine started, it would run fine. No stalling, sputtering, hestitation etc. Any ideas as to what to look into? Thanks

For those of you with a custom mom and pop exhaust, did you keep the same diameter tubing? What muffler did you use? Did you keep the resonator? It's time for a new exhaust on my VG33E so I'm looking for info Thanks

ROFL I love sarcasm^ I'm still chuckling 20 mins later (probably lack of sleep)

So I'm looking around at some local classified ads and I come across this: "1995 Pathfinder. Great condition. Driven daily. 252km but mostly highway and still running perfectly. Has no problems whatsoever, very little rust. It's five speed, four wheel drive/cruise control, ac, mp3 player, spare tire. It's dark grey with pathfinder written along the side." He's asking $1200. Canadian. No pictures. I don't know a lot about the WD21s, but this price is pretty low for the area (Ottawa, Ontario). Typically they are up around $3K. The '96 R50 in the family has cost quite a lot in repairs (probably more than it was bought for) and most fixes have been things out of my home-mechanic league. Are the WD's more "user-friendly" in terms of diagnostics and fixing? I know there are a ton of owners/info/support on this board which helps a lot. (There is another ad here for a 94: "V6 Engine, lots of parts left for your pathfinder, engine, fuel pump, rearend,computer, starter, alternator,doors, windows, most of interior ect. Tranny and transfer case sold already. Looking to get rid of entire truck. $300" I could get a bunch of parts from this rig) Any ideas, opinions, things to look for? Thanks!

Wow, that looks really nice! Did you make that front light mount? It looks like it cover up the body lift gap nicely!

Count me in! **EDIT: From the original "A VG Community" Topic

I realize this is an older thread, but my airbag light is on. It stays solid for 3 seconds then flashes twice (not really quickly, kinda lazily). Repeat ad nauseum. This just happened today, as it came back from the shop after having new balljoints, swaybar end links, and steering put in. I noticed it on the way home and took it back to the shop. They said they couldn't find anything wrong (I trust them). Could they have knocked a sensor or wire loose while they were up there? Is there anything I should check before I reset the light? Having my airbag go off randomly (not likely) or not go off when I need it (possible?) is not my favourite idea. Thanks

Not a big fan of the outside, and I can't stand the interior. I hate those flat-style pushbuttons for everything. Dunno why, I just do. I really like the old knobs that I can touch and identify without having to check if I'm defrosting the windshield or tuning the radio. I guess I'm just a touchy-feely guy

I gots that there email! :type:

So why do we not get the Standard model, only the Premium?

Make sure you can get the new fluid in the fill hole. I was going to do mine the other day and I ended up needing some tubing/syringe. There isn't enough room to tip a bottle up under there.

Any truth to the idea that the polyurethane bushings will provide a much harsher ride than the OEM rubber bushings? Also, with the cost of the labour to have the bushings removed/pressed in, it almost seems like buying the entire link is cheaper/easier. Thoughts?

I've always wanted to go to BC... I wish I could help (nice lab too!)

I agree that preventing a problem is the best idea. I'm just not sure about the parts/install involved here. If someone does a good writeup on this (with pics please!) I'll definitely get on this.

So an additional external cooler isn't really necessary for an R50?

Since it is that time off year where this starts to matter, how long does it take everybody's engine to warm up? Mine is the 3.3L (so VG33?), and it takes forever to warm up and produce heat in the vents, or for the transmission to warm up and go into overdrive/lock the torque converter (auto). Currently it is around 0-10C (32-45ish F), and by the time I get to my girlfriends house (10 minute drive, first 6km on highway) there is a trickle of warm air coming out, the temp gauge is climbing (not yet to operating temp) and the transmission is finally warmed up. The only thing that saves my ass, literally, are the heated seats! In comparison, my dad's Vue is blowing warm air as I get on the highway. Is this normal for an R50? What can I do to improve this? I plan to have the trans fluid changed at a (different) dealer (I have $100 gift cert to compensate for the old dealer's poor service) , what else should I look at? Thanks Adam P.S. Why has no one invented a heated steering wheel to compliment the heated seats?

My guess is ball joints. In my pathy it happened mostly when the wheel was turned to the left, or when going straight down the highway and hitting a bump. It's pretty easy to check the ball joints. Lift up the driver's side front wheel (you can leave the tire on, but it is easier when it's off), grab the rotor/hub assembly and see if you can wobble it top to bottom (in relation to the truck. You should be wobbling it as if you were trying to pull the top/ bottom of the tire out away from the truck. I can't think to describe it better than that right now ). If there is play then the ball joint is worn. If it is worn get both sides done at once, since they tend to go around the same time. That's my guess, see what others have to say. Adam

How do you plan to support the truck while you're doing this? (I want to know for when I get around to this!)

Here's a bit of info about the problem and possible solutions (about an R50, but might be handy nonetheless). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10971

Wow. Just wow.

Has anyone come up with a Pathy-specific write up and pics for this? My weakest area is definitely the electrical side of things but I would like to learn how to make this work. Ten year old stock lights don't cut it.

I found a small hole at the back of part number 9. Not being very familiar with the exhaust system in the truck, it prompted me to do some research and ask a few questions. I found a diagram of the system here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...=11&catalogid=2 A muffler muffles noise from the engine so we don't sound like a souped up Honda, so what does the resonator do? Unmuffle some of the noise/add a nice growl to the V6? The muffler listed on that diagram is "muffler and pipe 2wd". Is the 4wd different to allow for suspension changes? I would think that the only difference between 2 and 4wd would be in the front drivetrain, not the suspension. Is part #4 the catalytic converter? i know there are two on the truck (well, I just had two replaced so there better be two!), where is the other one? If you have any more info/tips/whatever, throw it in here too! Also, I plan to patch the hole, any products to recommend? Thanks Adam

So, if I've figured this out right, the main benefit of having manual disconnecting hubs is better mpg from less friction (moving parts) in the front half of the drivetrain? I know I'm missing something...

Wow! Those pics sure are better than the stock lights on a 96. I need to get me some of those.

Noob question here about the four wheel drive system on the pathfinders (I assume it's the same style throughout the years?). Shifting from 4H to 2H disconnects the front drive system where? At the t-case? hubs? front diff? Another related question: how does an auto hub work? Thanks