The Drift

Questions on the bedliner. I was thinking of doing my Rockers in it, but still undecided. Doesn't the texture of that stuff make it a total pain to clean?

I have love for both equally. But I am currently very impressed with my JB weld exhaust fix.

I'm drooooooling. I believe this will be ordered at the end of the month with my black panther skids. YUM

Jb welded all around the seam of an exhaust flange and stopped an annoying leak. Can't say I'd use duct tape on an exhaust.

I dunno with 87pathy's stories I think JB is beating Duct tape. Mods turn this into a poll!!! lol

Oh come on you can't even compare the two. I'd say they are bothe must haves though. I can't think of an instance where I'd have to weigh using Duct Tape vs. JB though. It depends on the application.

LOL Nice My most recent JB Weld success story would be a replacement tool for the Jack/Spare tire after I lost mine wheeling somehow and found that nissan wanted $80 for a replacement.

So this is a two part topic and HOPEFULLY could lead some amusing posts. 1. Have you ever used JB weld to repair a leaky exhaust flange, and how well do you think it will work? 2. What is the most assinine thing you have done with JB Weld. Come on we all know that everyone has a tube of it in the tool box, let's hear it.

Greenstuff is the type of pad. EBC Greenstuff. Thanks for your input on the thread, should come in handy tonight when I'm trying to figure this stupid thing out. It just doesn't feel or sound like a brake issue at this point, but who knows, I've never had a 4x4 or a car quite this heavy so I could be totally wrong.

As I mentioned to Venge via PM no one around me even sells this stupid thing lol. My idea is to to keep making small adjustments and measuring the preload until it is in line with what the sevice manual says. This should work right? No I need to find one of those pull scale thingys LOL.

So I literally called every autoparts store in a 10 mile radius. Everyone has the 4 and 6 prong tool. Hell I'll buy the stupid thing If I can find one, just so I never have to look for it again.

Ok new problem arises. I can't find an autozone that rents the correct bearing locknut tool for our trucks. Where the heck can I find one, or what can I improvise so I can actually get correct torque specs?

Thanks guys...and gal.

Lift and bushings. Any left over would go towards misc. suspension stuff.

So stealth is Mid I assume? Defender is rear? Does anyone have a good pic of the whole kit installed on an R50? I don't see any on BP for some reason.

Well I even mentioned to him that there were probably torque specs for a reason lol. I'm going to take everything apart tonight or tomorrow and re grease, re seat and correctly torque. All the while crossing my fingers that I don't need new bearings.

Ok, maybe I'm retarded, but what is the difference between the Champion, Defender, and Stealth skids. And what is the Super Skidplate kit. I am 99.9% sure that I will be ordering this at the end of the month. And it appears that BP sliders aren't available yet, I'm thinking of trying to make some, but in case I wuss out on that does anyone make R50 sliders?

Brand new Brembo Rotors. I was very careful about breaking them in as well. Rotors appear to be wearing fine etc. I thought it was the brakes at first, but I'm really starting to doubt that's what it is.

You can't really hear it like you normally would with trashed bearings, but with my luck they'll be shot and I'll be out $140+ for new bearings. Hopefully though just putting her at factory torque specs will do the trick. Has anyone else ever run into a similar issue with a brake jub on the pathy?

So of course we all take short cuts. But I've noticed that my ASE certified friends take them quite a bit more than I lol. Problem: I did my brakes and hubs about a month ago. Did it with a mechanic friend of mine just because this is my first 4x4. Well everything went smoothly except the bearing lock nut. I had the wrong tool for it and so we could not torque them to the factory specs. SO my friend just did it by slowly tapping it with a screwdriver, checking the tightness by spinning the rotor. He said it's just fine that way and not to worry about it. Now for the last few weeks since we've done it there has been a somewhat obnoxious grinding feel in my pedal when braking at between 15-30 mph. I thought it was the pads seating (EBC greenstuff, the seating material on them is very course) I've now determined that it's not that, and using my automotive intuition have become 99% sure that it's my bearings being over tightened possibly. I've gone close to 1000 miles since the job was done. If I try backing the lock nuts off and torquing them to factory specs do you guys think it may be the fix? I know I'll have to inspect the bearings and pray they aren't already toast. Just curious what ya'll think.

Jay, some quick tips going into this meeting. Do not go in there with a number in your head. You don't want to be the first to throw out a number. In negotiations generally the first person to lay down a number loses. Let them put down a number and then work with them to get it towards your satisfaction. Don't sign anything without reading it in detail and possibly consulting someone else or even an attorney if you have one. Don't accuse, but state facts that show their guilt. Accusations will go nowhere, but straight facts will. If I think of anything else I'll let ya know, but feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Jay, I know you're geting a new Path now, but keep this in mind for later inspiration. When I was 16 I blew the engine on my first car. It was a 92 Lebaron Convertable that I had been working on since I was 15. Rims, system, it was done up, and I did it so I loved it. Well only problem was that I had absolutely no experience wih the engine. I'd dumped all my money into purtying her up, and had nothing left when she needed repair. All I knew was that I had bad rod knock that was getting worse. I bought a service manual and a set of tools. I spent the next week in brutal cold and snow pulling the engine appart and diagnosing it. I ended up discovering a spun bearing. Fixed the car and continued to drive it for quite some time. Going in I had no clue what I was doing. But taking on that challenge was the smartest thing I've ever done. Since then I've built show cars, race cars, and I'm never afraid to do my own work. It will save you a ton of money in the long run, and it's fun. You just need to get that first car going and it just kinda flows from there.

Congrats on finding a new pathy. As far as converting auto -----> manual don' bother. Lots of fab work in it. It won't be worth it. I have an auto pathy, and it seems to wheel just fine. In fact she was showing up modded Jeeps sunday on the hill climbs.

I wouldn't doubt that played a large roll. Half the stock skid is missing. I wouldn't be suprised though if quite a bit came in through the grill. Either way. Skids and sliders are a must before my next excursion. I was going to do a lift at the end of the month, but I think armor will have to come first.

End of July I think I will be purchasing some Black Panther Armor. My stock "skid plate" ( if you can call that plastic thing that) is beyond destroyed.