twotirefryer

i was out wheeling but i got it now

got the rack on, i'll post some pictures tonight. it was so easy, the whole install went in about 20 minutes. i got the factory torx screws, so a socket did fit down in the feet. i had to cut about 6" off the front down tubes, and cut 4 slits in the tubing to get the factory pieces to go back in(hard to explain)and drill the holes. i used some silicone to seal the screws and walla, it's on. anyways, worthwhile mod, easy to do and cheap. you must do this if you want a rack. i did not get the factory wind deflecter, but it would be super easy to make that fit. the factory basket doesn't fit, but oh well. Dustin

for my 89 at least, VIN cut keys are no longer available, but ignition/door lock sets are. $170 from the dealer

got one local for $150 for everything. YES! i'll post pics as soon as i get it on.

OMG, just go to a junkyard and get the bolt, and take a 1/2 impact and tighten the piss outta the bolts. problem solved.

i have looked high and low and can't find a xterra rack anywhere. argghh. i need one for snowboarding. i see the damn things all over the place, they just belong to someone else. that rack looks great on the pathy.

ok, ok, i updated. sheesh. now you have no excuse to NOT stop by, bring some beer if you do

anytime you change ride height on an independent suspension car/truck, your camber will change, which in turn will effect toe. weight in the vehicle will effect ride height, so any winches/bumpers/fat chicks added would warrant an alignment. cupping is from toe setting that is off or bad shocks. there is no reason for cupping on a properly maintained vehicle. however, if you have wear on the inside that is even and not cupped, this is from negative camber, which on a pathfinder, is adjustable. outside wear is generally from excessive positive camber or negative toe, and inside wear is generally from negative camber or positive toe, although a combination of angles or bad parts(loose tie rods, bad centerlink...) can show these conditions as well. hope this kinda helps there. Dustin your resident alignment tech. BTW, anyone in the PNW can stop by and say hi anytime, I will align ANYTHING.

just my $.02, i would ditch the platinum plugs and stick some NGK v-power copper plugs in there. at least on turbo applications they are a high performing plug even though they don't last as long. Boohoo, they only cost $1.49 a piece. also, try taking the plugs out when the engine is warm. and yes, anti-seize will help you quite a bit your next go around.

so 88, what you are saying is that i just need the box and pitman....sweet. thanks guys

my 89 pathy's steering box is toast. talk about driving like ass. simply no more adjustment before it goes all sticky. anyways, can someone tell me the difference between the early vs. late model gear box's? since a rebuild will run me ~280 for parts from nissan, i'm thinking a junkyard will be the way to go. add that to the fact i have never heard of one going tits up(a search yielded nothing). if it means i need to go the that later style "big taper" steering thats fine, as i am waiting on gettin a new box to order the L&P stuff just in case i run in to unforseen issues there. 4 door style parts are everywhere, 2 door stuff is getting hard to find. thanks guys. Dustin

it will limit the RPMs like 88 said. thats only if it completely takes a crap. if it is just malfunctioning then yes, it can run really bad, like a carb'd engine with a stuck float, just dumping fuel down it's mouth. if you have any kind of intake that was recently built, sometimes the cheesy cone filter adapters can cause turbulence and really mess with the MAF. i've had cars that will only run if you hold the intake a certian way. you could also try regrounding your MAF, sometimes they get funky like that. whats the part number on the maf? P00 or n60 mafs are all the same from the 300zx(z32) turbo and non-turbo, pathfinder, j30....almost anything that used the vg30e and de. i have a few sitting around if you need one, but really you should be able to get one at a junkyard and save some $$$$. they rarely go bad.

damn, didn't even think about that. the 92 pathy is an auto. anyone got a good 5 spd 90+ wiring harness? i'm not afraid to cut and splice, but the automatics are electronically controlled. meh.... Dustin

ok guys, got a 92 pathy with bad motor, but it has MPI, so i'm gonna do a little write up on swapping the TBI to MPI. This will be a learning process since i've never done this, but i am armed with a FSM for 89 and FSM for 92. searching yields little info. i have LOTS of experience with nissan of this era, mainly se-r, 300zxTT and 240sx, so it shouldn't be a big deal. i will be using a stock ECU to get it going then going to the calum modified ECU that is completely laptop adjustable for bigger maf, injectors, whatever. there will be dyno numbers before and after. i'm expecting around 20 hp to the wheels with intake, headers and exhaust. this will hopefully be a fast deal because it's my snowboarding rig, with plans to have this done before christmas. LETS DO THIS. to start, since i have not tore the 92 apart a few questions for you guys. 1. does the MPI harness go from the engine bay all the way up under the dash like the 89? 2. are the accessories, i.e. heater controls, stereo, rear hatch accessories plugs the same between the 89 and 92 or am i switching the dash and guage cluster out? something tells me i am.

how about switching to the MPI setup? wiring harness, intake and plenum, all the injectors and crap....i bought a 92 pathy for parts for this same reason, although i haven't started the project, there is major power gain for cheap right there, just takes a little time. 200hp at the wheels with whatever tq sounds good to me. and i think headers shouldn't be counted as a performance upgrade, they are just a maint. item because the factory manifolds SUCK. I have access to a mustang dyno for free(firends kick ass), so there will be dyno numbers(weight and load simulated)before and after. I'll be dyno'ing my 89 5 spd right after i get the front end back together.

well whatever, not trying to start a war here. sorry bout that.

I'm especially giddy because compared to a street car with all the goods, this @!*% is so cheap. i have a galant vr4 that huals ass and it's fun to drive, but it costs lots of money to go fast(tickets). that pathfinder barely gets out of it;s own way, but still shines offroad. all that matters to me is that it performs well at what it's designed for. i demand lots so upgrading is expected. but really, after $1500 of stuff, these things are ready to rock and roll, like seriously. i've been in all kinds of crazy rigs, and besides bogging(haven't done it yet in the pathfinder) these things walk all over most other rigs. i showed a jeep with 35" thornbirds, lockers and some pushrod motor(don't get me started) whats up. suprised me:) he's like "are your locked ?" i said bone friggin stock. only paid $1500 too. haha. whens the next pathfinder meet

well one reason i'm not going with calmini is of they're sub-par customer service. i'm not waiting for 3 months for a steering system. if i had that much time, i could build one myself. i just went out today a bout $600 of front end stuff including the rear springs, so pathfinderphil will be expecting a call from me. got me alternator swap done, and the safari rack built outta electrical conduit tubing, so i will be ready to go i can not wait to go four wheelin again. GOD that was fun. hopefully i can use the rig like it needs to be used with the l&p stage 3.

read thru them, but not a whole lot of info i was looking for.

awesome, everything i wanted to hear. thanks guys. i think it will go with the l&p stuff. i'm not planning on adding much weight, maybe 200 lbs total so thanks 88pathy for the specs on the coils. there really should be a sticky on this stuff since one can look around forever and not find anything really pertinent.

i went to larch mountian with some buddies today. first time wheeling in my own rig. i LOVED it. the pathfinder is an impressive rig in stock form. unfortunately, i had to cut the day short after i noticed my steering wheel 20 degrees off and really bad feelings of instability from the front end. i BEAT the rig today. HARD. i bent the @!*% outta my tie rods. my idler arm is hitting the frame, my centerlink is showing some play. my steering is shot. sooooo, i need some new steering stuff. i've read around and the calmini stuff looks nice, but i just noticed the l&p stuff. what disturbs me is that these kits use stock inner/outer tie rod assemblies. they are super weak. any aftermarket approach to this? which is better, l&p or calmini. money aside. WHY? also, why are both my tie rods bent, as if at full droop there is not enough radial movement in the balljoint of the tie rod? so i need drop steering of some type? are upper control arms(aftermarket) needed? what brand do you prefer? my thoughts on a lift, am i thinking right? your EXPERIENCED input appreciated. looking for 2" of suspension lift, 2" body lift sway away TB's possibly upper control arms(aftermarket) new upper and lower balljoints(moog) so i need spacers for the BJ? l&p steering stg 3 JGC front coils (4.0) no sway bars front and rear energy suspension bushings is that a fairly solid setup? or should i just scratch the IFS and go solid axle? i'd really like to keep the IFS, but not if it does this everytime. 160k is not nice to anything on the front end, but not being able to drive like I want too sucks. it's not like i hit stuff hauling ass, but i do want to climb that dirt mound or that stack of rocks...know what i'm saying?

my fav is the 91-93 b13 se-r. put a sr20det in it and smoke 350z's

if you ran it out of fluid, then it needs to be bench bled. you say disk brake swap. are you putting a new or used BMC on? you make it sound like it's been on there awhile.

i think your running rich or your timing is way off.

it's the blue building, but i guess you know that since you stopped by. good to meet you grant. i like that bumper too.