Tungsten

I used the plastic ties through the condenser because there was barely if anything to attach those metal brackets to safely. Since my A/C is discharged, all I had to do was remove the condenser. If you have A/C, have fun removing the radiator.

Here is how it looks fully assembled for those interested

After doing my cooling system, the last component that I forgot to touch was the overflow bottle. It has those old coolant suds stuck to the walls but that hole is so small, I'm not sure how to clean that. The dealer wants $75 for it and I think its cheaper to clean it than pay up. lol How does one go about cleaning it? Any special detergents or just soap, water, and shake. I don't want any foreign solutions stuck in there because they are going to interfere with the coolant. Its a simple question but I just want to make sure I do it right.

nope thats a pretty good location for it clears the middle bracket, does not block any sensors, hoses don't kink or pinch, and gets plenty of air even under the grille and bumper

barely cleared trying to finish before it got dark so had no time for a real camera

done what a pain to install, the grille had to be cut a bit so it could fit 70264 is a tight squeeze

So is it like a plug in sensor? Or does it require taking the cooling system apart?

For the plastic bits, either make your own contraption thats similar to the plastic bits out of some copper wire, or go see the dealer.

Took it to the shop, just got it back. For those of you interested, it cost me $380 with parts and labor. Yes, they had to weld.

I went to a transmission expert and here is what I found out: 1. If your stock radiator cooler is getting clogged, that means there is something seriously wrong with the transmission and it will die anyway even if you clean the radiator. 2. The stock cooler should not be bypassed because if you sit in traffic or do something that will heat up the transmission cooler at least the transmission can run at radiator temperature. 3. The only time you can bypass the stock cooler is if its a large enough cooler with possibly its own fan and there is no A/C condenser. Otherwise you run into the risk of blowing your transmission up. There are other factors to this so there is no definite answer. To account for all environments, run to the radiator first and then to the cooler. However if your stock cooler is unusable and/or damaged you should bypass it so that way you at least have some cooling for the transmission. 4. If its a durable stacked cooler like the B&M cooler, always place it in front of everything so it catches the most air. 5. The orientation of a stacked cooler does not matter. The recommended way to mount it is with the fittings pointing down. If the fittings are sideways it would make no difference as there is at least 100 PSI in the system. The air bubbles would eventually squeeze out no matter how its mounted. FYI, Ford Explorers use a stacked cooler and the fittings are pointed downward. 6. There are some weird coolers which require specific orientations; in those cases follow them. 7. Be careful when dealing with ATF, you don't want anything that is not ATF inside the transmission. I hope everyone can benefit from this!

Looks like it is the RMS and I have an auto so there is no clutch.

Thanks B Can you (or anyone else) tell me how your cooler is hooked up? Top in, bottom out?

Someone please chip in (see above post)! I have to know what to do by Thursday so I can get to my friends garage. Here is something I found in the service manual on page 48: The temperature range of 68 F - 176 F appears to be the correct operating range for this transmission. FYI, there is your "free" temperature gauge! Click to see the attachment, its blacking out again...

I have a seat heat fuse on my truck but no switches anywhere, I assume its automatic with the climate control panel.

I found the leaks on mine, just no money or time to fix them. lol 1. High pressure port from A/C compressor 2. Evaporator Probably have to replace all the seals along with the receiver drier of course. Then recharge and enjoy! This is my case so I hope it helps you.

Thanks for your input! My 1991 does not have fog lights where the later models are, my fog lights are at the bottom. I have a BRAND NEW radiator with BRAND NEW transmission fluid and a BRAND NEW transmission filter. I drive like a maniac up and down hills so I'm probably going to hook the cooler up along with the OEM radiator. What kind of a filter (if one is needed) should I put before the radiator? http://www.amazon.com/80277-Universal-Remo...f=pd_sim_auto_6 ???!!! If a second cooler is installed inline with the first one, will it fry the oil pump? Also, like I said before, the transmission already has a filter and a big ass magnet and I change the fluid often so I don't know what the fuss is about as I have not had a problem yet. How about installing the B&M cooler BEFORE the radiator?

i'm thinking oil pan gasket it only leaks when i'm standing still, there is no oil trail behind me or anything like that the oil pan and the crossmember is wet with oil i don't see anything else will check the bottom of my timing cover soon just to be sure (it better not be the oil pump gasket )

arghf the crossmember is still getting soaked in oil someone plz tell me its not the oil pump seal like on doctorbills i had the timing belt done and the cam seals replaced already also, new master cyl for brakes and new drain plug i swear its turning into a ford i wanna go blow something up now

The B&M 70264 is rated to 14400 BTU which is what I got and planning to install next week. Are you sure you mounted the cooler correctly RJ? Remember these coolers have a special orifice which makes the cold fluid bypass so that the transmission oil can get up to its operating temp before it begins to get cooled. Or am I going to have to get another cooler? Or not bypass the OEM?!

yikes!!! just checked mine and they are about to snap off will be taking care of that ASAP, time to go see dealer again

been there done that fill the tank, take the spray nozzle off in the back, push the spray button until creamy stuff comes out, replace spray nozzle (might wanna clean that too)

How about putting in a large mattress that matches the protruding height of the folded down seats?

94pathyman and Precise1 got it right its definately a buildup/burnup problem in some cases i use 93 octane gas so that could have been the engine adjusting too maybe use a lower octane? cleaning the intake did help with the power curve and made the idle much smoother also i had to lower the throttle cable to drop the idle back to 800 as my idle increased by 200 rpm

Here is my 2c. After weak A/C operation, I took it to a shop to flush and recharge the system. The A/C worked great until a bad smell came in from the vent duct and my A/C quit entirely. I'm thinking its a bad evaporator but might as well replace at least the high pressure line too. I have been putting this repair off for a year now because I barely use the A/C but now I'm pretty much broke after the timing belt change so its going to have to wait a little longer.

Well its not doing that anymore... I don't know what happened but the problem is gone.