MaritimeMan
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Posts posted by MaritimeMan
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search around the forums, there quite a bit of info on the subject. I personaly use the 40 series, which sounds great, and performs well. Can't really comment on the 50 series, as I have no experience with those, however, once again, search around, there have been plenty of discussion on the subject of flowmasters.
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Heli-coils are a great, solid solution. A little known fact, but heli-coils are actualy military-grade, which means extra heavy duty. If it gets the military stamp of approval, then it'll be fine for about the same amount of crap we can thoss at em.
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Thick rubber flooring works great too, is easy to come by at hardware stones, and is what 88 used for his and the ones he made me. I think mine are 3/4".
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Whoa Slick, those are some manly hands. Whe'd you little rubber gloves go?
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I think it my be the culprit. Keep in mind that even though it was running, the operating pressure of the brake system while driving is much higher. A small leak while at idle could be the source of the loss of fluid, and thus, the flashing of the brake light on the dash due to sloshing fluid as prior mentioned. Also, if your brake fluid seems to be evaporating, check the blinker fluid, as it has a tendancy to condense in there.
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Just a heads up for future reference, if you get the Nissan T belt, it already has the marks on the belt. No transfering marks, just line up with sprockets and go.
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Tag for numbers
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There should be a special socket tool in you little Nissan tool kit for pullin the #6 plug. First they were nice enough to put it back there, then said oops, hmmmmmm........ I know! We'll give them a cheep stamped steel tool to take it out!
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The stories about AC's UCA's come from me as well. I had a set and offloaded em to the first sucker I could (88) after being on the vehicle for only a couple months. Like he said, poor fitment, quality and finish. Cheep product, cheep company.
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lol, another easy way to tell Slick is that the VG30 motor is a V6, and the KA is a 4 banger. Can you count to six?
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Thick wall round is a good choice, and as prior mentioned, it's a matter of preferance. The frame is pretty sturdy, however, if your bar was desined to take the brunt of the force that would be a good thing as well, as long as you don't sacrifice any ground clearance. I used my old nerf bars as out rigger a few times, and it is very helpful sometimes. The one I remember is where the trail did a 90 degree turn with trees on one side, and a sloped ditch into a stump with rocks at it's base on the other. You just pony up to the stump, crank the wheel, and she'll kick around. Very handy indeed. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
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Sig is cool, original, maybe a bit smaller, Yes please show pics, custom work is always appreciated. As for the T shirts, /\ what DSM said.
Welcome back around Mark, always fun when life takes a new direction. There are still a few of us around that you will will remember, some more prolifient than others heh. Good to see you back around, and a free man again. So what did you do in the Navy any how just out of curiousity. Cause ya know, it killed B's cat.
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Yeah snow chains will definately help, just don't expect them to last to long. Wow that sounds like an adventure and a half Rami, glad to hear ya made it out ok. So when you plannin ong gettin stuck next?
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With all the other stuff I have tried already, I doubt that would work, as great as that stuff is. They must use some hard plastic to make those panels cause it won't bond to anything. I'll get back to ya and let ya'll know how it turns out.
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I had the same problem and attempted to fix mine in the same way. Unfortunately, the clean up process didn't help at all and it was too far gone. Just a heads up, but the actuator is a $90 part from the dealer, so don't bugger yours up.
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Hmmm that sounds woth checkin into. I think I'm gonna try the model glue idea, and if that doesn't work, next fiberglass resin. I have some of the slow kick hardener, which I used to repair my fairings on my motorcycle. If that doesn't work, nothing will.
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In my quest to install even more wires in my Pathy, I had to remove the rear interior panels. In doing so, I busted a couple of tabs off of the platic peices that hold them in place. Has any one found a good solid adhesive that will actualy work on this type of plastic? I have tried super glue: nope, Plastic weld: nope, Two part epoxy: nope.
All seem like they would work, yet as soon as they are cured, they become brittle, and the tabs just snap right off again with barely any force and it doesn't bond to the plastic. Is there anything out there that will literaly remelt the plastic to itself again? I am gonna try model glue next, as I have heard that might work, but any other suggestions would be great. Thanks.
M.M.
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SteeevO, I had the exact same problem and I tried a couple thing to remedy it to no avail. I tried lengthining the sway bar bolts as well as shorting, an either it rubbed or put the bushings on the bolts at crazy angles. I just took the bar off, and really haven't noticed too much of a difference. Now that I have a body lift on as well, there is some body roll, but not enough to make me worried.
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Yeah, thats what I figured. Has any one done them before at all? I got the new ones today, and it looks like they will have to be pressed in, but I am hoping that a bit of heat and a BFH will get them in. Any info on the process would be swell.
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Is there an easy way to swap out the lower control arm bushings? Mine are garbage, and need to be swapped out. Is there a method that is easier than than any others? I already have the T-bars off, so no worries there. I'm thinkin just take off the compression rod, and swing the knuckle out of the way with the Control arm attached once the bolt is out. I'll have to check chilton's and haynes, but there is nothing about it in the FSM. Thanks ahead of time for any heads up.
M.M.
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Whoa, sounds like you had a busy day. Maybe when you do your rear axle you could take some pics and do a write up in your usual style for those of us that have never done it. I'd like to hear how it goes.
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Weeeeeee, I love my projects, every one turns into a can of worms. I went to do the lower ball joints and put on the Calmini T bars, sounds like fun. Since I'm doin the T bars as well, I just took em off and did the ball joints. Ok easy enough. Ball joints were a pain since I didn't have the puller to remove the rotor, but if I took off the upper uca, np, roll the knuckle out, take the bolts of the CV off and out it came. In with the new ball joints. Go to put everything back together, with new Tbars, and start cranking. Ok so far. Get it all back together, and go to set the bars so I can measure, recrank, etc. Bounce bounce, BANG! uh oh. back up on the stands she goes. The long and of the short of it, the T bar on the driver side didn't set all the way into the anchor, and stripped the anchor out when I bounced it. Man the bugger was loud. Sounded like some one fired a shot gun right behind me, and trust me, I know what one sounds like.
Any how, this went down Sunday, ordered parts on Mon, and since then I've fixed my door lock, wired in my CB and additional back up lights, as well as pull my throttle body and clean it, clean the filter, and put in new plugs, cap and rotor. MSD box is sittin in the back seat, but the Taylor wire won't ship for a few more days, so that'll have to wait.
Can we say can o worms. You start one thing, and now I'm fixing all the stuff that has been buggin me while waiting for parts. Any how, thats my rant, and where I've been. When I'm done Slick, lets go wheelin to test her out!
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I used the dino stuff and have no problems. Yeah, if I don't let it warm up a full 5-10 min on a cold day the first couple shifts are hard, but nothing horrible, just an extra bump. Another trick to getting that extra bit in the tranny is to jack up the side of the vehicle with the fill plug and top it off from there.
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I'd imagine so on the emissions, but like you said, it's just speculation, and has been hard tested by any one yet. Summit does have the boxes on sale, but it's only an $8 rebate. These Guys have the whole kit (box and wires) for cheeper. Also, the Taylor wires from summit are back ordered, so you'd have to wait a couple weeks before they are even shipped. Just a few penny saving tips for those who are interested.
Pulling heads/HEAD GASKET
in The Garage
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Slick, there should be punch marks on the sprockets themselves. Just line all the punch marks up with the ones on the new belt and you sould be fine. This is assuming your new belt already has the marks put on it, and the direction it should go on. Since you have the valve covers off, you can verify the timing is in proper order by pullin plug #1, watchin for TDC, then watching the valves and the distributor for compression, ignition, exhaust and intake.