MaritimeMan
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Posts posted by MaritimeMan
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So, what's next? What? You say you want to drive it for a while?
Heh, that sounds familiar. I had the ultimate check in my quality of work by driving to Seattle from the Bay Area (just under 900 miles). She made it without a squeek, noise or even a grunt.
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Most insurance policies cove windshield replacement, call yours and ask. When I had mine done, I called ahead, and they told me to come in the next morning. They already had the glass there, and it took they guy about 20 minutes to swap em out, they were that fast. I don't remember what the total was, but like it was said before, alot of companies cover their work. In my mind, something like that is worth paying for. You mess the bead up in one spot, you just got yourself a leak.
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Any special tricks or hang ups? I need to get back there and track some gremlins down, and I'm not really lookin forward to it.
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Hey cool, thanks for the heads up Simon. Please let me know when you get them which way it goes. And by the way, glad to see you back around.
M.M.
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Looks good. I'm not sure on the final thoughts on leafleting but sounds like a good idea.
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Usualy there's descriptions of components, with pictures. It might take a little intuition, but if you look at em long enough, you can see the differences in their outter appearance, and help you identify which is which. As far as specific application goes, I'm not too sure about that.
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I know some out there have the 8mm Taylor wires for our 90-95's and my question is their application. Do they come with the boot extentions needed to reach down past our ait intakes, or is that something you have to do yourself with your existing ones? I imagine it would be next to impossible to even attempt to put those buggers on without the solid extention. Thanks for the heads up.
M.M.
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I was just curious to see how many of us caught the mod bug. I did. Now that I have a solid base for information, well mostly, and a group of people who share the same enthusiasim, I really have gone hog wild with her. I was just wondering if other are wearing the same shoes. Also, my mentality of; If it needs to be replaced, might as well upgrade it, has definately led to alot of mods. However, I don't think they would have been done the way I did them if I didn't know about NPORA.
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FSM. Factory service manual has all the numbers, specs, etc, etc etc
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I'd actualy like to hear what's availible for the front, besides pullin a junked diff from a 300Z
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Ok, so on a scale of 1- 10 how easy is it to pull your dash?
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Here's the header, can't really see the mating surfaces so well here
And here you can kind of see the collector flanges.
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Hmmmm that sounds very strange. Let me go look at my car domain page, cause I pics of them there. lets see if you just got a crappy set or what, cause I don't remember mine being that bad at all.
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Cool dude. See, we all need NPORA stickers so we can get free advertising. I usualy give a wave to other Pathy's on the street, but since in this town it mainly ghetto folk drivin in them, I prefer not to. Always fun meeting other Pathy nuts, especialy since we are so rare.
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cool, I hope that works out for you as well as it did for me. Shouldn't have any problems at all. All it does is pick the vibration of a knocking motor and tells the computer to retard the fuel a bit.
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Its a good feeling when you finally tackle a project like that and come out sucessful. Congradulations. Welcome to the tranny club
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tehe it sounds like German in the end, I get it.
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And you're welcome for those JGC coils too B. Yeah, lifting a Pathy can be fairly easily. Read those links, re-index the t-bars, replace them if they still sag, and go with the JGC coils. 20 bucks for a 2" lift, you can't go wrong. You want more, then the bucks come.
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to change it no, there's no other way. When I put my new motor in, it didn't have the mounting hole for it, so I just drilled a hole into the bell housing, engine side, and made sure the bolt didn't hit the flywheel. Close enough to do it's job, yet it's now accesible.
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jeez, you guys still posting on this thing? Let my laziness die already, I'm too lazy to do anything else about it.
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HAHAHA, ok excuse my laugher but that's just plain funny. Have fun finding the nest, and hope they didn't poop too much.
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LOL if you want the ultimate lazy; order the bolts from AC, measure them, post the measurement on the web, then send them back and find them for cheeper on the web. Now thats lazy. I think I might do that.....
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Or you could do what I did, and get the best of both of best worlds. I know this is goin a bit futher than you intended, but bear with please. I just built a box, one half is sealed, the other half is bandpass style, with a 10" eclipse sub in each side (Subs) This give me the best of both worlds, as I do listen to alot of techno, but will rock out with the best of them to the hardest metal riff you can imagine. Try it you'd be amazed.
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I'm with Mr. P on this one. Most tubes are poot quality at best, and it's not a matter of if it's gonna blow, it a matter of when. There are plenty of good priced 10" subs out there. Like he said, just use a bit of particle board to build a nice cozy enclosure that you couls even mount an amp to. Thats what I did, and I can have it out in 2 min, amp and all. Then again, I have 2 amps, with the second being mounted on the back of the rear pass seat. I'll see if I can drum up a camera and take a few pics for ya. Just be warned, by box is not small, but easily removed for trip reasons.
dumb question
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted