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Everything posted by Orangetang
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Their sound quality is alright.. I had some Type R 6.5/1" components in my Firebird and they were great. Mind you they were powered by Pioneer and Clarion. From the head units I have used, Alpine's build quality and user interface quality isn't good. Especially their idea of MP3CD and iPod navigation.
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You're all wrong... Day-Time running light module... $289... That kinda sucks... For the record, the R50s have fuses, relays and a DTRL module. I really appreciate the assistance though. Thanks everyone.
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If anyone is interested, I can post pics of my S-DIN Alpine install. I also had the D-DIN Bose... I didnt'use an adapter plate or cubby hole though, I made my own... The 3 kits I bought didn't fit properly and looked terrible. I'm not sure if my Chilkoot has different trim than other models, but the kits certainly didn't work for me. Volume 4-7 was about my normal listening volume, 12 seemed to be the point where volume peaked... Anythign after that didnt' really do anything, I think the factorya mp compensates, as to not blow the speakers. Also, my subs, being at volume level 4, did absolutely nothing, while the rest of the speakers were producing... Yay for double amplification. I ordered the PAC ROEM-NIS2 adapter kit, with supposed distortion free sound reproduction... I'm not very impressed. While the dials can turn roughly 90 degrees it seems there is just off and on... For a proper adjustment, one would need to test the wattage going to each speak individually, while adjusting this POS. There is distortion, and it sounds as if the speakers are blown if you have the thing set to a reasonable level which is extremely hard to accomplish inthe first place becaus eof the tiny inaccurate dials. I found a spot where i could compromise functionanlity with sound quality, but still the amp is just weird. I think it seriosuly adjusts or compensates volume levels. Or the BOSE speakers just completely suck, which is totally feasible I suppose. That or my Alpine deck sucks, which wouldnt' suprise me. I'll never be buying another Alpine product after the crap I've been through with my last 2 decks... I'd be happy to take pictures of or post comments on any of the crap I did to get this stuff running.
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Uh, I think it depend son the model year dude. The white 01 SE I was looking at had grey plastic flares. However I'm pretty sure the newer SE and LE fender flares are actaully part of the fender panel, not a bolt on piece... Just something to consider.
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SO your guess is as good as the mechanics... Trial and error. Replace a part hoping it fixes the problem. Replace another, and so on. So maybe I'll rack up 8 hours of labour and some new parts that havn't done anything for me, and the problem is still there. It just seems kinda stupid to me... Especially since they can't even tell me if it's going to be covered or not. It sounds to me like I'll be leaving with a $1200+ bill whether or not the truck is fixed... The vibration is a grumble, not a rattle, it doesn't have the sharp cracking or whining sound of gears or joints falling apart. My best guess is an unbalanced cv axle, or shaft or loose joint. The vibration increases with speed, not RPM, feels and sounds like knobby tires on the freeway. Whiirrrrrrr.... I don't really have the money to spend on this is it isn't covered. By the symptoms I described, do you think that by leaving it, the problemw ill escalate and become more costly over the next moth or two? I just drive around town mostly.
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This vehicle is turning out to be a real nightmare. I'm almost ready to cut my losses and trade it in for a civic or something. I experience a slight vibration when travelling at speeds over 80km/h in 2H. The vibration is more obvious when accelerating. If I engage 4Hi or Lo at any speed and accelerate, the sound and vibration is much more pronounced and rougher feeling. At first I suspected this was a worn drive-joint or shaft in the front wheel drive area, perhaps the passenger side CV-Axle Boot or something.... So I take it to Nissan for a diagnosis (I'm covered by the 100,000km powertrain warranty still). They just called me after a 1.5 Hour diagnosis @ $95/hr saying that they have no idea what the problem is right now, and whether or not it would be covered by warranty at all. So I can let them continue and start pulling drive components off, and replacing them, test-driving and seeing if the noise goes away, or call it off and pay them the $150 plus whatever the problem is with my suspension ($600 or so), on top of that. At $95 an hour, i'm frightened that they will call me in 4 hours saying they havn't found the problem and to come pick up the vehicle at my cost. However if they DO find the problem and it's covered by warranty, I pay for nothing... What the hell? I suppose this is normal to you all, but I just bought this newer vehicle in an effort to get something more reliable and cheaper to maintain. I wish I still had the car I sold for $600 bucks... Especially with the $429/month insurance in this dumb province... Any ideas what this problem is? I guess in reality it could be anything.
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I took a look at this today. Either I'm lost, or you guys are talking about a different model or something. I removed the 5 screws holding the column cover together, then the 2 that hold the signal/headlight arm assembly in place. That chunk isn't white, or semi-clear plastic, but black, and has two pin connectors on it. One white with about 10 or so pins and a brown one with 4. The housing on this assembly itself looks nearly impossible to get into without breaking, so I put it all back together. I should mention, if I havn't yet, that the two blue 'modules (or whatever)' under the hood for L light and R light click when the lights are turned on. If I remove one and aplac eit in the other, it still clicks, be it the L high or L low. If that thing is clicking, it must be getting power, so wouldn't the problem be in the wiring between there and the light, rather than a switch in the steering column?
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Cheers
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You may be joking about the 'DNA' test, but everytime I do a fluid change on a company truck, I need to send off a sample along with documenation explaining how many hours or kilometers, brand/type/SAE of the fluid, serial numbers and everythng else to go along with that. If we do it where I work, I'm sure that Nissan must do the same thing. One time someone contaminated an engine oil sample with some diesel fuel or coolant. A couple days later we had mechanics tearing a C15 Cat apart to find the problem, which turned out to be nonexistant. For the record, I bought this through Mazda, not Nissan. So if Nissan sees anything they don't like, I'm afraid they will have the say in what they do or do not pay for. Anyone else ever heard of this? What is the NIssan recommended fluids for these things anyway?
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I'm only assuming this is the cv axle though. They're going to look at it on thrusday. I experience a little vibration above 80km/h or so, if I use 4 Wheel Drive the vibration is amplified, especially under acceleration. So, lets say its a problem with the transfer case, they might see the fluid and then say it isn't warranted. Can that happen?
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This is my concern... I bought a 2002 Chilkoot with 72,000Km on it from a dealer. The dealer said that my powertrain is warranted for 100,000Kms and I could buy an extended plan if I wanted to. Now, the dealer didn't service the vehicle before I bought it. I had no idea when any of the fluids had last been changed, and it was approaching the -20,-30-40C winter weather here in town. I took the Pathfinder to Great Canadian Oil Change, and had Mobil 1 5w30 put in the engine, and had the diffs and transfer case changed to the equivalent synthetics aswell. Now, after they did this, for me the manager asked if anyone had mentioned to me that doing this may have voided my warranty.... I've heard this from a couple of other people now so I'm concerned. I need to have a CV axle or something replaced this week under the warranty. Should I drain my fluids and put the Nissan approved fluids back into my components? Is the engine allowed to run on Mobil 1? What about the drivetrain fluids?
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I have some vibration coming from the front end of my pathfinder while i'm on the highway. Noticable only at about 70km/h and up, and peaking around 120km/h. If 4H is engaged, the vibration increases a fair bit, especially when accelerating. I pulled over as soon as I noticed this and gave the CVs a shake with my hands. The Driver's is solid, but the Passengers feel a little loose, like there is play in the rotational plane. Should there be? I'm guessing this is the problem... When rolling up to a stop sign, a very very quite scuff scuff sound can be heard from somewhere around that area.... Also, possibly unrelated a bumping sound is coming from somewhere under the truck on small bumps.. Sounds like a loose shock mount or something... Maybe related? Anyways, I just drove this thing over 2300km in the last 30 hours or so, and I need to return home ont he weekend so it shoudl probably be sorted out before i head back for another 2300 kms. 80,500km on 02 Chilkoot. What do you think?
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Havn't had a chance to get moving on this yet... Just travelled over 2000km for a funeral on thursday. Now I think I have bigger problems than the headlight. I might start another thread for that...
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Just so I'm clear on this... By the switch, do you mean the rotating knob on the headlight /signal arm on the steering wheel column? How do I go about removing the switch?
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I did that, and I cleaned the bulb contacts, harness contacts and fuse blocks with electrical contact cleaner... Also wiggled the harness wiring down to the bulb with no luck. not even a flicker.
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My Driver's side low-beam does not work. I replaced the bulb, and the low-beam still does not work. I tried a couple more bulbs I had, and still the low-beam doesn't work.. The highbeam and running lights work though.... I found the two 'fuses' or whatever (for the left and right headlight) under the hood in the black box closest to the front of the engine. I pulled them out placed the one from the bulb that works into the non-workign side... Same problem. So it can't be the fuse or the bulb. That leaves, the wiring? What should I do? Is there another fuse/module I need to be checking? 2002 Pathfinder Chilkoot
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Dash Kits for CD Players - 02' Chilkoot
Orangetang replied to Orangetang's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Hmmm, thanks. I'm going to look into that for sure. Today I had some spare time after lunch to fabricate some stuff. I'll post pics when I can. So far looking much more 'factory' than the kits. I'm going to try to borrow some time on a friends CNC router to machine out a blank piece of aluminum to fill in the blank spot... It should be able to write Chilkoot or Alpine, or whatever in the aluminum, which would look nicer than a 'cubby hole'. If not, I'll just slap in a plain jane slab of painted aluminum to blend in with the the rest of the dash, and maybe a sticker to make it less obvious -
Dash Kits for CD Players - 02' Chilkoot
Orangetang replied to Orangetang's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Good idea Alex, the guy at Visions gave me another aftermarket model today to try out. If it doesn't satisfy me, I'll probbaly start calling wreckers in the region. If you can't figure out how to attatch the images, feel free to add me to msn if you have it... mechalchuk@charleshays.net -
Dash Kits for CD Players - 02' Chilkoot
Orangetang replied to Orangetang's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
The one I bought was for years 96 and up and included adapter peices for the Altima... Do you have a link or anything? -
Please help me! I can't find a decent adapter plate to mount my alpine deck in my pathfinder. I ended up buying an adapter that has a little 'cubby hole' in the lower part, to fill in for the cd changer... However, this adapter in no way will fit in the dash (without some serious modifications) and looks like crap anyways. Where can I get something like this? Surely some of you are pulling out those defective 6 disc changers and putting in your own deck.... Please post pictures, links, anything you have! 2002 Pathfinder Chilkoot with BOSE 6 Disc Changer/cassette/radio combo... It's gotta go. I'd post pics of my troubles, but my camera broke The 2003 adapter looks like it would fit better... The one I bought is mounting tabs that are not wide enough to reach the factory mounting screw locations... The 2003 has longer mounting fingers and looks like it may fit. Help! I just bought this pathfinder a week ago, and I don't think I'll enjoy it until I have some tunes.
