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mikesmaximase

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Everything posted by mikesmaximase

  1. Well I got the new distributor in. Now Im waiting to borrow my buddies timing light to time it then let it warm up and see what happens. I cant drive it around seeing its not registered anymore now that I have my mustang. Whats the timing supposed to be if anyone knows, 15 degrees? I also replaced the ignition coil with another used one (got for free) just for giggles (at this point anythings worth a try. I'll keep you posted. Thanks Guys!
  2. Hey, Timing belt "moaning" is normal of a newer belt. I have the same thing also and I just installed my belt a few mnths ago also. My buddy whos a certified Nissan Tech said it will go away eventually and thats its common of new timing belts. I dont know if this is exactly what your talking about just thought id throw it in there.
  3. Hey, I dunno where but I think I read they wont fit each other. I used to search a ton about maximas when I owned one. Goto Maxima.org they might have some info about it. But Im not sure if they got their search bar working yet.
  4. If anyone wants to buy a good and tested, 1995 Pathfinder Ecu (MECM-V260 A1) v6 4x4 auto, and Mass Air Flow Sensor, and throttle position sensor out of the same year vehicle. Both work great and have been testing in my vehicle. Make me an offer. I also have a Rancho Steering stabilzer with mounting kit for the Pathfinder and hardbody, I bought it for my 95 but have decided to sell my pathy so I no longer need it ($40). Located in Norwell, MA. Will ship but you pay.
  5. Yeh, but the discription given about the distributor doesnt sound like what im experiencing. I although did just purchase one off of ebay for s#$&s and giggles. It only cost less than 20 bucks. So how can I loose. I can sell all these items I dont need to my buddy for his shop. Even though you are still getting a reading through a volt meater it can pickup if there is a small glitch bouncing,it cant read thing that fast, thats why you would need a labscope to read something this accurate.
  6. well just spent 180 bucks on a new computer and maf sensor, still having the problem. AWSOME! -mad- If anyone wants to buy a maf sensor or computer for there Pathfinder let me know.
  7. Yeh, mine is starting to give me some some problems when im barley stepping on the gas. Im gonna go get a new maf sensor and computer tomorrow at the local junk yard. See if this helps any.
  8. NEVERMIND, still have it unplugged and its still doing it. -mad-
  9. OK guys here it is, I disconnected the idle air control motor and it runs fine without it being connected, Just had to turn the base idle up a fraction of a turn. I had taken the bolts out of the intake pleneum so I could angle it up to gain access to the idle air control bolts and hose and taken the idle air control motor off and took it apart and cleaned it, there was no carbon build up in there so I think its just plain old time for a new one. Over 200 bucks form the dealer, or autozone or lappens has them for around 150 bucks. Gotta pick up a power steering pump also, the bearings are starting to go in mine, 140 bucks from autozone, looks like im gonna have to find one from a junk yard. What next?
  10. I have a fram in there, i have tested my fuel pressure and its fine. just for hoos and haas today, i took the egr off and both the egr and intake were all junked up with carbon build up. I cleaned the whole mess of junk out of it and replaced the two gaskets. But it still didnt fix my problem. One of my buddies has a scan tool and were gonna try hooking that up to it see if any readings comes out of it. Next step will be getting another distrubutor for it if no codes come up.
  11. Well, we can count out the mass airlfow sensor, I tried another one and it ran the same way. I took the ecu out and took the plate off and checked the circuit board and its all fine nothing burnt and no corrosion. The egr is functioning as it should, it is freely moving up and down. I have located the air control motor which is in the back of the intake manifold undernieth where the base idle screw is, and its gonna be a pain to get to. But, Im gonna try that and see if there is any carbon build up in there making the valve sticky. The idle air control motor works for air conditioning and power steering. My truck the ac doesnt work, so when its at it lowest idle and I turn the wheel left or right it drops down about 50-100rpms instead of kicking it up a notch. So my guess is its not functioning 100% properly. I just have to wait to order a gasket from the dealership. Anybody ever done one of these before on a Pathfinder. I know on my maxima it is right up front on the side of the intake and really easy to change/clean out.
  12. SCREWED UP, my truck is possesed. Now instead of the idle fluctuating during in all gears(park,nuetral,reverse,2,1), its now back to it just in park and nuetral, it ran great all yesturday and today until you put it in park or nuetral, then it did the whole rev up to 2000rpms then down to about 15-1600rpms back and forth. So now it runs great other than this. The exhaust has a gas smell at times???????????????????????????? Why, I love Nissan, but im gonna go back to a Chevy is this sh*t doesnt stop. -mad- -mad- -mad-
  13. This thursday Im cleaning the egr valve, and putting a new ditrubutor in it. My buddy said if he was to try and replace something he would do the distributor first). For your question 1) if I have the oxygen sensor plugged in which im running unplugged right now, if i stomp on it it lets out a very litte puff. Reason for it being unplugged is because its worse when plugged in, Its a bosche sensor, I tried one at first and it stil occured after that so then I switched in another brand new bosche and the same thing so i know its not the sensor, plus i have nothing coming up on the ecu. Question 2) yes the idle air control motor was unplugged when it weas idling and it did not change the spuratic idle at all. Question 3) Ill check the coil but i have looked at it running at night and havent noticed anything Qestion 4) its grounded check it. Question 5) dont know how to, let me know please ill check that. Question 6) Yes Question 7) no Question 8) have hit it before while idleing did nothing, im gonna perform the vaccum test before removing. Question 9) did all of it Question 10) pcv valve is new Question 11) Ill check it again, but yes i have done it before and it did change, there is vaccum Question 12) Yeh my buddy told me the second thing to replace would be the ecu, if the distributor doesnt work. I can get them for 100, bucks for the distributor and the ecu for a hundred bucks. But I wanna try one thing at a time. Question 13) Question 14) I have a brand new negative battery cable, Ill check the negative jumper to the dist. see if that does anything.
  14. Ok guys, this s*cks, it went back to my buddy who cannot find anything wrong with it to fix the idle. Checked for intake manifold leaks. He checked all the reading from the sensors again, checked fuel pressure, switched the mass airflor sensor with the one on his truck, it got the same readings from it and didnt change anything with the idle. He has had it hooked up to a computer and nothing came up along with the ecu. he adjusted the base idle and mixture idle and still nothing. He also had another one of his buddies who is also ASE certified and he scratched his head to. luckily this doesnt cost me anything. I guess Im gonna pick up an egr gasket, take off the egr valve and clean it with carb cleaner see if that does anything, maybe it is getting stuck part way????? Im about to give up, and pick up a new car until im out of school and work on it in the summer???? Is there anyway to check the distributor itself??? I have never delt with a bad distributor before other than in a chevy blazer, it had little power and had very hard time starting. -mad-
  15. Yeh, I have had the hole thing off looking for rips or cracks, I also made sure the two clamps on each end were tight and air wasnt leaking past. Any other ideas????
  16. Done that, I took every electrical connection and put electrical grease in it also. I have wiggled every connection with it running and got nothing.
  17. the mileage is 75k miles. I did the muffler/tailpipe assembly and checked the screens in the cat and they were all in one piece and not broken. or clogged
  18. I have a 95 Pathfinder, I have done plugs, wires, cap, rotor, throttle position sensor (w/ correct ajustment), fuel filter, air filter, oil change, oxygen sensor, pcv valve, new battery grounf wire, new mass air flow sensor ground wire. I also have just done the timing belt and water pump. Mufler and tail pipe. Then timed it. The problem is when the engine gets warm, and Im sitting at the light it will run at about 1000rpms then drop down to 700rpms where its supposed to idle at and then starts to fluctuate a hundred rpms up and down. If I plug in the oxygen sensor it gets worse, so as of now im running with it unplugged. I did reset the computer after the oxygen sensor install. Nothing is coming up in the ECU did all that. The motor is dumping to much gas in as I pulled all the new plugs(bosche platnuim) out the other day and they were black (not oil). So I think thats why when the oxygen sensor is plugged in it reads a high amount of gas and is trying to highly compensate for it and it cant get the correct reading. One of my buddies at work who was a mechanic said it could be the EGR valve, I have never done anything with egr valves before so I dont know if it would make the engine run with dumping alot of gas in and then when the motor heats up and the egr turns on threw vaccum it gets stuck open or something? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I have also had a Nissan certified mechanic check over all the elictrical reading from all the sensors and they came back fine. I have not found or heard any vaccum leaks either.???????? Oh, the car only has 75k original miles on it.
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