Pathfinder Phil

Dan, on the $10K dream list, I can go along with most of it, but I wonder about a few things. FYI, I'm NOT trying to be critical, or saying your wrong, just wondering about a few things. Tires, not a bad choice, but seems like an AWFULLY high price to me. I got exactly the same size tires for less than $500 mounted, balanced, road hazard. Uniroyal Larados. Maybe that's one of the things you can get cheaper? Front LSD. Since you already are getting the rear ARB, why not a front ARB? In MY opinion, which means NOTHING to anybody but me, LSD's SUCK. JWT cams. Why not Schnieder regrinds? Cheaper, and you can get the EXACT grind you want. Again, just curious, not critical.

Sorry Martin, but for whatever reason, your emails haven't been getting through. Anyway, just order straight from the website, www.lpperformance.com and click on "Steering". I also replied to your PM with the same message.

There's ways to prevent bending those TRE's forever...... L&P Performance Click "Steering"

Well, I kinda hate to respond to this, but I will anyway, with a few caveats. If you do anything I say, you're on your own. Don't come back and complain to me that you messed something up. This is what I do, and it works for me. You and your truck may be different. I flat tow my '88 manual with no problems at all. I just put the tranny and t-case in N and go for it. I have towed my Pathy probably a couple thousand miles total with no problems. The furthest "single" trip I've taken is about 300 miles, and I've done that about 6 times. At speeds up tp 75MPH. Up and down hills, NOT mountains. The big thing with ANY towing is watch your braking distance. You have just nearly doubled your weight, with NO increase in braking ability. It WILL take you MUCH longer to stop SAFELY. Watch "sharp" corners, the tow vehicle will want to continue pushing you straight, even more so when it's slick out. DO NOT attempt to back up while flat towing!!! It won't work. Also remember lights. And, some states (don't know whitch ones) require a "VEHICLE IN TOW" sign in the back window of the towed vehicle. In most states, if ANY wheels touch the ground, it must be properly liscened and insured. Most places it is illegal for passengers to be in the towed vehicle.

I just wish Bushwacker made flares for my truck.... Had to sell a GC for less than face value, as it did me no good.

Yes, DO NOT get MileMarkers. I've had 2 sets and thats enough for me! Yes, the body shatters rather easily, and, from what I hear from bystanders.....heheheheee, it sounds about like a gunshot. This is also another reason you will NEVER see MileMarker stuff on our site. It's gotten to be a personal thing. Yes, MM DOES have a lifetime warrenty, BUT, you have to have the original reciept with the serial number on it: http://www.milemarker.com/hub-warranty.html

Outer.

Unless you make your own for less than $200.

^What he said. I don't expect you to entirely believe me, but ask around. It seems the aftermarket STANDARD ones tend to go faster then the OM ones. But, if you want, go ahead and buy that one. We'll be waiting.......

Well, "P" here of L&P. This is a pretty easy install. Most people say it takes about 2 hours, working slowly and carefully. Drilling will really depend on how good, or not, your drill bit is. If you want, or can, if you send us the arms, we will drill them for free. If not, the best way to do it is to remove the Idler arm, and drill it on a drill press. You will be 90% to removing it anyway if you put a IAB on. As for the pitman arm, sometimes removing them can be hard. If you can't get it off easily, or choose not to, just lock your steering and drill it while it's still attached. Make sure the holes are straight! Alignments aren't too hard to do on our trucks, but some places do have problems. Make them tell you what specs it's aligned to. Printouts are nice. Just find a good reliable shop, and you should be OK. And, you won't regret your decision. We stand behind our products. If you have ANY questions or problems, just let us know!!!

I want them!!

Well, and that's my problem. I tried to join a LONG time ago, like a year ago. Didn't get anything back, and now I'll probably have to pay money. Which isn't that big of a deal, but the non communication kinda is. I know when my internet access has been knocked out, I just went to the library. Heck, at my library, I could even edit my websites! (They had MSFP on the computer.) Anyway, he could communicate with someone, and make them an admin, even if it was for a short time. Now, all that being said, I know what Jim is going through, and I really do feel for him. And I hope everything works out. So I'm not a complete asshole, just a partial one.

Well, 233mm is 9.17 inches. And, again, not ALL autos have the 4.6 gears. I drive one that doesn't. Stock, at least gears anyway......heheheheee

There were NO STOCK, made for USA, V6, carbed Pathfinders. However, if it would be that big of a deal, adaptors could be made. Again, the distributor would be the problem.

Ummmmmmmmmm...not for much longer..... Yes, you heard it here first!!

Ever think about Schnieder? Good cams and good prices. Linky: http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/50a.htm Oh, and the L&P SC system will be done this spring.

If you're just going to offroad it, why are you worried about things such as the windshield trim?

Just an idea, have you checked the VIN's to see if they match? And what's the VIN decode as far as year?

Just an FYI, there IS a fix for this.... Clicky clicky

"Resale value".....

I still wanna know why? Why won't a LockRight work in a later model Nissan?