Steve_RI
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Posts posted by Steve_RI
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Drain coolant into something you can reuse or recycle (Use drain peacock on radiator or remove lower hose) Take the clamps off top and bottom hoses and detach them from radiator. From here there are a couple bolts on the sides that need to be removed. After that, slide it up and out and put the new one in. I forget if the shroud comes out with the radiator, but you can tell easily enough once you get it loose. See procedure on here somewhere to bleed system when done. Pretty simple job, good luck
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The other side:
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Better illustrated in the FSM:
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The illustrations in the part manual don't really show the difference, but the part numbers are different. Here's what they look like. Notice the end (top of pic) where they mount to the wheel.
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The part numbers are not the same and they look vastly different. Am I missing something here because I would love to use those cables?
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All I see on Ebay for parking brake cables for Pathfinders are for the rear drum models not 4 wheel disc?
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Did you try contacting that Ebay seller? Sounds like he may have these cables, which are becoming very tough to get a hold of it seems.
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The part numbers for the 92 are 36530-42G16 and 36531-42G16. I don't know why theses would not be the same for 87-95, but apparently they are.
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I had no luck with the dealer when I was looking. I replaced the driver side with the Beck Arnley 094-1247. My passenger side was serviceable, so I am still using it.
From another post, this guy on ebay may have the cables you are looking for or can rebuild them. They are for the Terrano, but they are the same part numbers as far as I can tell. This is the route I was going to try before I found the part above.
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Let me guess, you have the 4 wheel disc brakes. The drivers side is easier to find than the passenger side.
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I remember seeing a topic on this way back, maybe in a tips and tricks thread. I ended up doing the mod because I have an air mattress I would through in the back of the truck. The mod called for using a round wire lock pin (Lowes/HD) to replace the pin so you could easily remove and replace the seats.
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Changed the oil. The oil pressure light in the dash goes off much more quickly than it did before, which is interesting. Maybe the drainback valve in the new filter works better than the old one did? Or maybe the oil is just that much better. Either way, it's an improvement. One of these years I'll pick up a relo kit so I don't have to fiddle around for five minutes trying to find the right angle so the filter will thread.
I'm sure it was a thread here from a while back that I got this from, but I switched from the PH3682 to the PH3614 with the built-in bypass and startup was noticeably quieter, especially in winter. L10241 is the Purolator equivalent.
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There's some real good ones out there, I have the General's on mine, but the BFG A/T (T/A KO) are very well regarded for off-road. Can't go wrong there.
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Passenger side is very tough to find, but there was a thread recently in the 90-95 forum of a potential source on Ebay.
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hmmm, never really thought about those bracket holes. I don't remember any factory options that mounted there?
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I eventually pulled a headliner and speaker bracket from a 95 Pathfinder. It's a pretty easy upgrade if you want better sound, although there are other options
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Nice truck, I did something similar when I was looking to replace my 89 in 2005, and although I wanted to drive it home, I shipped it instead. The first thing I did was rip those speaker boxes out...there's very little room back there to begin with.
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Sway bar links will help handling, but not a cause of these symptoms. You need to check the ball joints, centerlink, and compression rod bushings.
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Indeed, the parking brake cables are tough to find, especially passenger side. I keep my eye out for Pathfinders at the two pick-n-pulls nearby. The next one I see I'm going to pull the e-brake cables.
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I have cheap tie rods and kind of regret not getting something better, like Moog. However, I hear mixed results with Moog these days, so this is something I will need to revisit, probably in a year or two.
I have the Rancho steering stabilizer, but I don't think brand is crtical here. Rockauto sells various versions for a decent price.
I don't think the grassroots centerlink (HooHaa) is available anymore?
The Hardbody steering conversion is another option, where the HB centerlink is used with a combination of HB and Pathfinder tie rods. There's a good post that has all the details. If you can't find it I can post the info as I have toyed with doing this myself. This is a cheap conversion, less than $200.
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Another vote for the split. When I did this on my old 89 I cut the poly bushings in half (before splits were available). You'll need to cut out the metal sleeve left behind, but otherwise it's a pretty straightforward job. Grease them good. They come with grease but you can use a good aluminum based marine grease as well.
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I put clean oil on the top surface of the seal area, spin it on until it makes initial contact with the cleaned block ( yes, I wipe it down with my last clean rag) tighten it with just my fingers and then snug it another 1/2 turn with my wrist.... which works out to tight-enough-to remove-with-difficulty when you change it..... unless you're using Mobil1 filters.... in which case 1 full turn after initial contact, no more than that.
Yup, same here as well
Planning WD21 Drum to Disc Conversion
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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One advantage with the drums is that the parking brake cables are a hell of lot cheaper and much easier to find versus the disc.