unccpathfinder

leaving a truck stuck in water/snow can be a bad thing...I knew a guy who ended up trashing his whole truck b/c they left it stuck in a mud hole over night when it got down to like 20...it ended up knocking 3 tires off the wheels (i guess from the water expanding as it froze) and he cracked his exhaust and some other things but after the tow I think it cost him about $800 to get everything fixed...snow/mud/ice and a cold night can be bad I also knew another guy that got stuck with exhaust under water and got a ride to get gas cans with gas and let it idle all night long periodically spinning the tires so it wouldnt suck up water or freeze and stayed the whole night with it till the AM and got pulled out...

I always use Caterol GTX...I tried the high mileage in my 87 (had like 250k on it) and it started leaking live a siv...for me personally I think if you use an oil and dont have prolbems keep using it...now that u have used the high mileage without problems I would continue to use that

thats what he says in the 1st post

that should work fine...but I would cut a chamfer on the piece that will mount to the stock hook locations so the front block is perpendicular to the ground using both bolts on both sides should be more than enough to handle the shear from pulling the pathy behind the X (without running the #'s) I did a quick google search and this is a quick introduction to figuring your bolt size requirements. The application of the bolts are in single shear which They discuss...I skimmed it and it seems to be a pretty valid (I know they used Sigma=P/A but wrote it funny) http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp I guess I should have mentioned that you want to take and multiply the weight of the pathy times 3 or 4 (this would be a sudden stop loading) and then divide that by 4 for the 4 bolts and take the individual bolt load and do P(this is your load) divided by the area of the bolts cross section (i think those are 1/2" bolts down there) once you get your answer you want to divide the bolts allowable by the number you got and you should be greater than 1.5 (that would be your safety factor) but I may have gotten that backwards b/c i've been doing the margin of safety for aerospace and its a lil bit different so you may want to research that and check that I'm not telling you wrong

looks clean nice find

sweet...if theres other members close by...u could pick up that other 1 for $300 and part it out if u have the space for it...a lot of parts are interchangeable esp if its the same interior/exterior color

after a swap there will be lots of smoke, smells and bad things for like the 1st 10 mins...I was not warned of this after rebuilding my top end and freaked out cuze I thought we were about to have a fire...

pull dizzy cap and turn it over see if it spins...if it doesnt spin then TB is more than likely the cause...I recommend changing the belt and setting everything up right...turn it over and listen for loud bad noises...if not run a compression check and this will tell you which cylinders are the worst off...then tear down and pull heads inspect all then replace valves if no other major damage...i broke a belt in my 87 and had bent valves in #1 and #3 did the work myself and like $300 later and a couple days and i was back up and running... if timing belt is good...i'd check for fuel pump priming and sending gas to the TB...then I'd check the resistor, coil, cap, rotor and plugs...I'd also check the timing b/c it could have been a botched job and got an x amount of degrees out so ti wont fire...

glad you got it running...white exhaust may not be bad (only if its steam)....Personally I would get studs in those manifolds asap b/c you dont want to run the risk or warping the manifolds...also check that all the plug wires are tight...after I put wheelmans in one of hte plug wires got hit and was loose so it was running like junk

i do the same thing as 87 or down shift into 1st as I'm coming to a stop while still rolling and keep the clutch in my 87 is 2nd gear and my 95 is 1st and I know the syncro's are going in my 95...but they've been going for the last 5 or 6 years with no worsening

its the bar with 2 holes that attach to the frame...the bushings go on the ends of it against the frame and it connects to the LCA towards the rear of the vehicle

I was under the impression that when you turn the key theres no turning over of the engine at all? if everything is hooked up and its not starting...and you have good battery (maybe try starting your turck up in a "jumpstart" configuration...b/c if the battery is low on amps the starter isnt going to go...

well if it spun over thats good....thats the "hotwire" i wish I could just step back for a lil while and dont worry about it...think about something else b/c if not its going to give you more problems and not be worth it...i'll send you a PM with my email address (gmail so it has chat) and we can walk through it unless you can call the US and it not cost us anything...dont be intimidated b/c its electrical...and maybe it's like my last swap (engine wouldnt start so I thought it was just locked up come to find out I had a round tooth on a square tooth setup and I was very glad when I found out later that it wouldnt start b/c if so I would have ate the new motor... we'll get you stright b4 too long dont you worry

nope just 2 on the front side...look at my pix...the one where the wire is going is where the small wire goes

the yellow one goes to the oil pressure sending unit I believe... do this...put a wire on one of the tabs on the starter and bump it to the battery...if nothing put it to the other...i think the newer starters have a + and - but you only need to hook up the +...if the starter bumps go put the e brake on put it in P or N then hold that wire onto the + terminal until the truck starts then remove it.. then find the wires and hook the right ones up... and theres 2 connections on the starter...1 big ring terminal that goes to the battery and then a smaller one with either 1 or 2 wires...

yea theres the big 1...and the small 1...the small one is the one that gets the signal to the starter to tell it to go...if that wires not hooked up nothing is going to happen until that post sees 12V

chekc the garage one...i posted up there...but check that the signal is getting there (multimeter), check battery (if good and no signal you can try my rigging) if that works problem solved if not then test the starter (should come back bad or your wiring set up isnt right) it may be a good idea ot put an inline fuse prior to just hooking wires from the battery to the solenoid

now its back in the cooregated plastic: and finally to the relay: so you can do a jerry rigged version (but check the signal wire 1st to see if its getting juice and if not go this method and if its got signal pull hte starter and take it to the parts store and get it tested...or my half ass test above) when I did it originally on my white truck i ran 2 wires and just layed them so they wouldnt get caught by any belts and let'er go (if you look at the 1st 10-15 secs of this video you'll see what i'm talking about as I carefully drape the wires over the missing steering column... hope that helps in someway

ok this is going to be a lil shaky but theres other write ups...but here is the basic bypass the trucks ignition control: toggle switch (or bumping the 2 wires together)shown here: which run down to a relay (optional if your only going to do this this one time): so pretty much the wire that runs from the swtich to the relay is the "on" signal to close the gate, 1 is ground the other 2 are carrying the 12V from the battery to the solinoid so from the relay I put ran the wire this way: this next image see the red/black wire thats the the wire that goes to the starter I had to break it out here (yes I know theres a motormount bolt missing)

you can dry check the starter...pull it out pull the battery out and get an extra battery cable...hook the + to the starter and then have a ground from the - to the starter somewhere...then the other "E"" terminal that you talked about in the other post put a female spade connector and hook it onto that post then bump that wire onto the + of the battery and you should see that bitch jump...make sure the wires are secured so that they dont move and arc and cause bad things to happen i'd also check the battery to make sure it didnt die over its extended no use time... let me go grab some pix right fast for you...

the other is for hte ignition wire...its what goes to the ignition to tell the solenoid to go...you can hotwire it by hooking a wire to it and up to the + on the battery...granted the kkey is in position 3

sweet sounds like a productive day...wish I had a flat of beer to work on my truck...i miss those days...

& make sure you dont buy some home depot or lowes BS make sure its a good grade and is comparable to the OEM bolt..

I would always pull mine and the hood not pop up...walk around whack the hood and bam it would pop up...

notta problem not a nuisance at all...yea but its not easy...the way I did mine was when I broke a timing belt and had the heads off and drilled the screws to the right diameter and used a set of screw extractors with a lot of PB blaster...there are several ways to do it but I think you need to lift the body up or get a 90 deg drill to access the screws depending on their location...