unccpathfinder

pull the cluster and slowly turn the input (where the speedo would go) I am going to guess its a stripped gear or broken part that allows the single mile digit to turn over B4 the 1/10th mile gets all the way back to 0...in fact you could probably watch this while driving and see if the single mile turns over prior to the 1/10th mile cycling all the way through

you could approximate the TDC mark...or find TDC by pulling #1 and use a rod to find TDC then mark the 0 off of the crank pulley then you set the dizzy to #1 as your hanes or FSM says to then slap the timing light on it and you could probably get it pretty accurate that way I believe b/c if 1 is at TDC and no one has jacked around with the crank pulley then it should be 0...it would also probably be close to the "tack" spots that are on the TB case just a thought but don't know if its valid

ohh gyees haha...could someone with a a 93 go check? just take a look at the tranny on the passenger side and it should be easy to tell if its mechanical or electrical...that or pull the cluster really quickly... Thanks According to Mr Reverse over on AC's boards its 94 that the electronic speedo's started...

I'm pretty sure its been posted B4 but not having any luck finding it...what year did the WD21 start having an electrical speedo? Thanks

theres a small notch on the "pin head" that the needle attaches to that shows which way the arrow goes but its hard to see that and install the needle at the same way

even if it were in kilometers 4 miles would only be about 6 km

have someone drive in front of you in a neighborhood and go like 20 or 30 mph... if you have a melted speedo needle you'd need to go faster than where it sticks...me and my buddy did that when I replaced my speedo needle to make sure I installed it back at the right place...he was on the CB letting me know what his speed was and I was pretty much bump drafting him just to have fun checking my speeds I dont see how a stripped gear at the Tcase would give you more mileage or more speed I would think it would fail in the opposite direction and stop producing values

leave the auto computer hooked up and dont screw with the wiring...when you pulled the auto shifter out there was this switch (Park/Neutral interlock switch) if you connect that switch the truck will start up in any gear (I just ran electrical tape around it several times for the 1st pass and now i just soldered the wires together...it took me about 2 or 3 days to figure that out on my 95 to 87 swap (the 95 was auto, 87 manual)

if it were electrical the ECU would have caught it...you could try cleaning the MAF and check what you have listed

31's will decrease your fuel economy but you have no way to really check it being that your speedo and odo are now off...but they wont be off by much I think at like 55+ it'll be close to 3 or 4 mph...ride and handling dont really change (well I guess it depends on the tires you put on) i put dunlop mudrovers on and they handled well on and off road (they were a softer rubber than my radials and had a lot more grip on dry pavement) some people said they were crap on wet pavement but I didnt notice any difference between the old and new tires..

is the actual speed correct and just the odometer wrong? if the speed is correct and the odo is wrong its probably a bad gear or stop pin that is allowing the single mile counter to turn before the 1/10th mile counter makes a full revolution you could pull the gages out and hook a drill up to it to check and see whats going on

it has a lot of dents and dings but if your going to use it for offroad go for it...I'm not an R50 person but I dont think you can do as much with the unibody

hmm my 87 FSM doesnt say anything about a code 55...it says 44 would be "good" or no errors

yea Acetone would be fine on my glass but I'm clumsy and would get it on the paint and I know it won't eat paint instantly but my car is less than a year old and cleaning it with acetone isn't what I really want to do The vinegar got I'd say 90% of the buildup off of my glass...there are a couple spots still but not near what it was...I can see out of the glass now in direct sunlight

I'm thinking it could be a vacuum line or maybe the EGR is starting to fail...I know the test is to push up on the bladder and it should kill the engine so it could be something up with the vacuum there causing the EGR to kill it out...but start like JJ said and go through everything...checking the ECU should be the 1st thing to do

you did replace the throwout bearing right?

ohh man...the lady at Ace hardware suggested that....and I just looked at her and said your serious arent you and she was like yea it'll get the job done great... I've used this "magic sun" which was supposed to take it off and all it off...I've used my zymol cleaner wax with no changes...I gave this presto stuff a try that was supposed to remove it with a little better result but i had to really scrub...I've also tried several different bathroom cleaner products with no changes...next time I go to town I wll get the Meguiars (but town is an hr away)

well I was going to scotch guard the car cover and the ones I was looking at were "water impermeable" which I thought was water proof... so far nothing has worked...next is vinegar (which I dont like the idea of it getting on anything other than the glass) and then some lime away or CLR...but I didnt get to try today b/c it was windy as hell today and I painted the garage

I'm with you on that...Once I get into the real design I want to be as conservative as I can on calcs and still maintain a low weight gain by increasing the safety...becoming an engineer has really ruined life for me...I start looking at things and go damn thats some scary @!*%... Haha...well I don't really have a ton of time on my hands but they're fixing to start laying off at work so I'm entertaining/retraining myself to get back into some hardcore engineering to sell myself on the market and I miss the pathy and don't have time to work on it so I may as well better my career and possibly get some other options out there for the WD21's b/c theres an offroad supplier that will possibly buy my designs if I provide the engineering work so they can sign off on it...granted if they dont I can have my own stuff for my own rig and know its good without worrying about who was riding with me and if I was going to kill them or not

if the roll center for the body is currently 12" above the frame and say it going around a sharp turn it gives you a 3G load and say the body weighs $500lbs simplifying everything down to a reasonable calc that can be done in a forum...your looking at a 1500lb force which would create a 1500 ft-lb moment with respect to the frame if you look at a 3" body lift you would have a 1875 ft-lb moment and if you went the total 5" (according to CA) would provide a 2125 ft lb moment at the CG of the body which is 70% higher than the stock roll moment which as a wild guess still puts me at least 30% under the design condition and possibly lower than that if they took more than a SF of 2 which was probably more like 3 or 4 to reduce the "pendulum" effect there would need to be suspension changes possibly with spring rates and shocks I don't like SAS but thats a personal preference and no the main argument was to squeeze bigger tires under the pathy without HD sheetmetal mods and if that couldn't be obtained safely then I feel that it would be an upgrade for the current BL's available b/c of what I've seen happen to trucks with BL's that have rolled or been in wrecks and the lift doesn't accommodate for those types of situations I never said ignore the suspension...I said it may be a possibility to add a body lift without a susp lift to obtain the same "ground clearance" and I believe a sound body lift (by sound I mean isn't going to come detached from the frame in a wreck) the CG of the chassis is more than likely below the frame or right at the CL of the frame as you increase the susp side of things your roll moment increases much more than it does for the body being that the body probably weigh's 1/2 to 1/4 that of the chassis so in theory you can overcome the change in the roll moment of the body easier than you can that of the chassis but you better believe that if I completed calcs and it looks shaky I wouldnt do it What is the sole purpose of a body lift anyways? To add larger tires or gain more clearance from the frame in the engine bay or some other desired mod...I am not familiar with the TT setup but if you got say 4" or 5" of BL instead of 2-3 could you install a TT by fabbing in some motor mounts that would position the motor in line with the radiator still and in the stock location but give a ton more room for plumbing and for the turbo's?

you could probably jack the vehicle up and spin the tire to see whats loose...other than that it could be a compression rod and check that the CV is tightened up at both the axle and the snap ring and all that is installed correctly on the hub...I'm sure if something is wrong and you jack it up and remove the tire you'll see it right out...

Heres what I have so far for the frame...if I get about 4 hrs tomorrow I hope to have it in 3D

b/c I'm not a simple person...I'm not a "hey lets do what everyone else has done" never have and never will I don't see why its stupid...if I can substantiate it as safe with actual calculations is a lot more than saying hey I can hack up my IFS and bolt/weld in some leaf's that I have no idea how I'm changing the capability of the vehicle characteristics (which could be derived as what I'm doing) but I just dont like SAS and nevermind it being illegal...my truck as it sits is already illegal in this state (since I already did the not so simple task of converting my TBI into a MPFI) but I'm working towards fixing that...Plus I dont like how SAS vehicles ride, drive or handle Another reason I think you could do the 4 or 6" BL is to get bigger tires and more GC... with this being said I was thinking more about it and if I did that and could still fit 32's or 33's under it without using a suspension lift since those tend to wear parts out and with the SL the only ground clearance your gaining in reality is 1/2" if you go up from a 31 to a 32" tire which if you deflate it to 20-25lb then you've just lost that lift as far as high centering your rear axle and front skiddy goes...now I will say that the 3" SL does give you more frame ground clearance but I don't really know how much of that is an advantage esp if the TM lift is used I have a long way to go B4 I could even come close to figuring out what is actually possible...I mean I've barely got the frame started in cad b/c Nissans dimensions in the FSM don't correlate to one another... EDIT: it looks like in CA a body lift can be no more than 5" with a max frame height of 23"s http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc24008_5.htm

hmm interesting...I'm not sure I completely follow...I guess what I was getting at with bolt bending is with the BL you run the bolt up through the frame/mount through the bushings which in turn run through the truck which a larger Dia would help but getting large dia bolts 5-7" long gets expensive fast so from the image it looks like the 2 diagonals would attach to the frame and the center cylinder would "hover" above the exiting mount or would it go straight down and contact the frame?

I'll look into that...but i still need to do something like a car cover b/c we get some hellatious winds out here so my neighbor waters my yard plus the lot next to me on the other side of my house on a windy day...which it has bleached our fence and it better stay off of the stucco b/c thats a lil more pricey to fix