unccpathfinder

I'm still a firm believer that gas doesn't go bad...but I'm wondering if my tank my have contaminants in it from sitting so long...or maybe in fact after 2 years it does start to go bad...but up until recently I havent had any problems with burning but I still think i'll refresh it and see what happens

for sure...along with all other "engineering/physics" in the real world...they teach you these BS equations that aren't true in real scenario's and you go to get the real world calcs and you have to make the right assumptions to have a valid analysis and then you have to convince someone else it's true...they've got me doing loads reports and stress analysis' here at work and I hate it b/c I suck at making assumptions and I'm either super conservative or I make one wrong assumption so I can do the calc and it's not applicable according to the boss whoops...I missed that one...ohh well

yea...I was talking about it with an "engineer" i work with he's got his BS in physics and he started digging on all these physics/engineering sites and all kinds of philosophy's came up about the different realm's of friction there are and how to in theory take a completely frictionless material and put it in a vacuum to make them become "bonded" together so that the friction is infinitely large It gets into dynamics instead of statics and all crazy with tires...I like you had a hard time paying attention in school but I recall discussing that the leading edge of a tire of its contact patch is considered "static" where the rubber elastically stretches to provide rolling resistance or some crap heres a link to the google search that will give you tons of different philosophies on it...http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS247&q=friction+of+tires&btnG=Google+Search sorry to thread jack...but yea I think we both agree that tire pressure in this application isn't going to gain fuel mileage

brakes are easy...if it leaks tighten it up...if its soft bleed again and look for leaks or replace MC...

did you remove the 3 nuts on each T bar up front? b/c that retaining plate will not allow the bars to come out until those 3 bolts are loose IIRC... the tranny should be bolted to a transmission X member that will not allow the tranny to move until that is out of the way... you also need to drop out the cross over pipe on the exhaust... I've done 3 clutches and never been able to do it with the tranny in place...but if you can get to it and do it that's more power to ya Good luck

ehh well I guess you could have 2lo if you have manual hubs and they're not engaged or your auto's havent engaged yet or broke like 88 said

well I got a compression tester today and everything checked out at like 110-120 psi (need to see what the spec is which I'll do in a lil bit) but after running the compression check it seems that 3 and 5 aren't firing now and its knocking and what not... So sometime I'm going to check my timing b/c she was knocking kickin and spittin and hard to start after the check...and my gas is really old too (almost 2 years) so that could contribute to it...I think i'll change the plugs inspect/clean/replace the dizzy cap and probably wires and pump some fresh gas into it and see what happens and thats beautiful...my source for all the nissan FSM's went bye bye...now I gotta find my backup pdf grrr SONNOFA...does anyone have a copy of the 95 FSM...it's seems that most of my sections have now gone corrupt...this is BS... NM found another copy...hmm seems a little low for what I'm seeing but I didnt have the accelerator "open" and my battery is a little weak...Guess I"ll check it again later this week

ahh yea that makes sense b/c the TC wouldn't be in full lockup it would still be slipping instead of getting all of the power power to the tranny and I guess theoretically you could put the converter in full stall where you don't get power to the wheels I know when I was selecting Allison trannies at my old job that was a big concern in the school busses in the grades they would be able to climb without putting the TC into stall

you removed the 4 bolts that go into the transmission through the front side of the engine into the bell housing? 2 are on the starter (it has to be out of the way to get to them and 2 on the other side) and theres also 2 in the top center on the tranny its a PITA to get to I assume you have all the other X members diconnected as well? I had the same problem and had missed that top center bolts the 1st time I pulled mine and it wouldnt let it go but after it was out it came pretty easy...its heavy so dont be under it when it does go...

yep checked the plug for spark checked resistance on the plug wire and changed it with the appropriate one from my VG sitting in the garage and tried a new plug as well...shocked the piss out of myself 1 time That's what I was hoping for...I think I will also pull the VCG to make sure I didnt have a valve spring break b/c if it did as long as it didnt break far enough down to hit the piston I should be good and its not knocking but for sure a compression check is next in line Thanks...I think almost anything now is minor after what I've been through with this truck...just gives me an excuse to hang out in the garage B4 all of that happens I have to do an oil pan gasket, RMS, Timing belt (with all the extra's) in my coworker/neighbors Frontier

Doesn't look horrible...kinda shady on the hand bent line but it gets the job done without charging you for the additional labor to bend it and $145 for parts, bleeding and changing the wheel cylinder seems reasonable to me...i cant really tell from the angle but the LHS looks a little low but that may just be the projection of it... Next time you do the work and save the additional $ for something you want to add to the truck You'll learn that even if you screw it up its probably going to be cheaper for you to fix it than take it somewhere else unless you screw something up big time... my coworker (dumbass or I would have helped him) just took his saturn Vue (another reason I wont help) to a mom and pops shop to "inspect" the headlight switch b/c its not working and they said its $85 an hr to do wire testing and its automatically 1 hr of work...He's a knockoff EE (no eng degree but worked in the navy and thinks he knwos it all but when I told him to check it with the multimeter he was like uhh) and didn't want to take the time to figure it out but he can't afford food right now either and lives less than a mile from work but refuses to walk (he's a tad overweight) and buy's a $6 coffee 2 times a day M-F along with all of his porn/swinger memberships...the guy is really screwed up...so I know they're going to charge him like $300 if not more b/c it took 4 or 5 hrs to figure it out b/c with electronics you just cant tell...he'll be bitchin the rest of the week now

I checked it again last night and even paying for insurance on both pathy's and on my 07 camry and driving 80 miles a day...I'm saving enough in fuel/oil costs on not driving my pathy to pay for my car and insurance on it...as gas goes up that margin grows even larger... If you're not making more than I'd say $65k you better get a commuter b/c its going to cost you more on gas then what your are making to make the drive...that or drive to the town you work in and get a hotel room for 4 nights and then drive home on fridays after work b/c I bet that would be cheaper than the gas as well... If you max out the pathy for mpg's you're still only going to get maybe 23 or 24 but I seriously doubt it

something sounds fishy about this whole thing...I rarely put my truck in 4lo and I have pulled many trucks out of mud holes ones with busted drive lines off the beach and a buncha other situations...along with pulling up bushes, stumps and whatever else I could hook the truck to and pull out and I never had a problem especially on grass not pulling the vehicle/object out and occasionally had issues with spinning a tire but the object of 4wd is to equally place your drive force to reduce loading up wheel (open diff) and spinning it instead of driving so if you pulled the car out without spinning the tires it did what you wanted it to do

ok your right on my terminology but yes contact patch does have a lot with the force of friction being resulted into the system...This is why dragsters have wide tires and not some regular street tire on the back of them...If the same compoound/dia were used for a dragster but one was half the width of the other and everything else in the system remains constant the one with half the contact patch will slip more...it's also a function of the rubber compound (a stiffer rubber will provide a lesser resultant force than a soft "sticky" tire A tire to the road is much different than a block to sandpaper or a book on a slope as typical statics's problems portray them...so yea my terminology was fuzzy but the concept is true...we talked a lot in RVD (road vehicle dynamics) of how rubbers and adhesives do not typically follow standard equations of friction (which is not 100% true its a matter of finding the equivalent coef of friction for the specific tire and applying it to the equation) but any how tire pressure is insignificant to loosing MPG's

ohh right I forgot about that..thanks

hmm I dont think airpressure has a major effect (i think mythbusters busted that one) but low air pressure can increase the contact patch and give a higher coef of friction but I dont think it would be significant...but I could be wrong...and I think the same goes for the roof rack and spoiler...they don't increase your frontal area all that much so I don't see removing them saving anything more than maybe .1mpg if that but yea keep up with the and fix any exhaust leaks for sure... I was driving 700 miles a week B4 I moved to CA and that was at $2.50 a gallon and was paying about $100 a week in fuel...take that in a month and thats enough to keep the pathfinder and go buy an older accord that gets 28ish mpg and keep the pathy for offroading and what not... just run out the cost of fuel vs keeping the pathy and getting a commuter car... you'll see that the fuel is eating your budget quickly

Well I dove into the pathy a little today and found that cylinder #5 is dead...I know its getting fuel and I know its getting spark so the only thing that leaves is compression...I didn't have a chance to get a compression tester today but I am looking to find no compression in that cylinder... so that leaves me with a bent/not seating valves, bad rings or head gasket...I'm pretty sure its not the head gasket b/c I'm not getting any fluid mixing although that could be a possibility...so I'm going to do a comp check sometime in the next few weeks pending its results I will pull that heat and inspect the HG and if it looks like the problem I will inspect my valves and do any other corrective work required put it back together and do another comp check and if its still low I guess it would have to be worn rings... are there any other ways of checking it besides pulling pistons and inspecting everything? Thanks

been there done that...you would have had smelled a nice little burning

I dont think the black part comes off the e brake... to get the rear windows out you can go buy the tool or use some old guitar string...its a PITA

air idle valve and yea it should be a solenoid

if the actual engine speed isnt changing but just the tach its the wire on the dizzy...my 87 got really bad and it would jump from whatever RPM I was running up to like 1000 over what it was doing and down to 0 but if the actual engine speed is changing it wont be that...

GL4 for tcase and tranny... check the local laws...reverse lights may not be a requirement...my 87 has never had reverse lights since i've owned it and in NC they're not required

you will be going faster than what the speedo says or you can change the gear in the tale housing i believe to the correct gear set to correct it...you can also google around for converters that will allow you to figure out the speedo differences if you changed tires/gears/or anything else that could affect your speedo display

I think yes...I was going to suggest that earlier but didn't theres a pretty easy test for that...If I remember when I get home this afternoon i'll take pix of those pages and post them...I know with my test for the EGR i depressed the bladder and it would damn near kill the truck out so if it can fail in that position I believe that could cause the problem but I don't know it's failure mode if its anything like my VG30...the EGR probably was out of the equation many years ago...when i broke my TB the tube going from the EGR to the intake was completely clogged with carbon and no way for anything to pass through it

Here is the page from the FSM for setting the Dizzy...it's pretty vague...