unccpathfinder
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Posts posted by unccpathfinder
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Grant the t bars a touch or adjust the bump stop...make sure u get an alignment if u adjust the tbars...or do what I didn't on my 87 and learn where the rub and don't rub...
Glad u picked the 31s over 33s BC the 33s would have been worse
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Just don't see how u clear the rear fender and front of the fender unless u r cranked to the stops and even then u will rub something at sometime...unless you trim...id be interested in seeing pics of ure wheels cut at the rear and front BC i know with 31s on a stock 95 and adjusted tbars they hit the front valence and bumper and over speed bumps I could grab fender depending on the bump and my speed...
31s are your safest bet to fit with no issues...and take it from me u keep evettything stock and crank tbars and the front end will be a nightmare in time..and at that point start upgrading early BC the cost of replacement parts will kill u sooner or later
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Yea like I said...I figured u had it right but the picture is deceiving...I have dealt with things that people didn't look in the open and close or in and out position so its great in one position but not abother...one was locking an oil filter b place and making it non removable....or one of my heat shields I designed straight out of school and it couldn't be installed after market...it happens
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I've damaged almost everything on my pathy except the fuel tank so that's y I say its prob about the safest place...other than inside the cab...def mounted where the HB is I would have ripped it open on the trail
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If its cyclic and a slight click check the shims on ure brake pads...if they r cheap pads the glue melts and the shim will hit the hub
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Replace the tach in the dash...or full gage cluster...my gfs before I swapped over a new cluster (put her speedometers/odor in the new cluster)
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Hey ryan...u gonna crash into anything above the links/truss...pic may be deceiving but it looks like with some articulation it may hit the floor or that rear x member but maybe not...I know this won't be as extreme as the hb but figured it'd be worth mentioning
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This truck was abused before I got it...the windows is cracked and the trees went down the entire roof
Its got new fenders, bumpers, passenger side door...hope to weld in a rear quarter panel this summer
Now
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Crank pulley can be a but aggravating to get off as an FYI
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I just drive it hard...no sway bars...I put 2" wheel spacers to clear fenders. I lift front tire when I turn sometimes according to different folks that have rode behind me...I just don't see 33's on stock not ever rubbing...like I said the gfs is on 33s and the tbars r cranked and I had to trim the front fenders and the body was already beat back by the tires before I got it ...
95 w/ 33 X 12.50s with spring spacers in the rear and cranked t bars
This is what they looked like when we got the truck but he wheeled it hard
New fenders before 3" body lift
Now w/3" bl:
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One of the rubber ones came out while cornering...knew exactly what it was...the metal ones were still on the springs when I tossed them...they sale these things at advance and autozone...its like their ricer wheel spacers....don't do it
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Tank is in the safest place where its at IMO...just weld a Jerry can holder to the stock carrier...spares under the vehicle will hang too low if wheeling and if ure stuck and need the tire...it'll be pretty difficult to get out from under the vehicle
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33x1050s will still rub at some point and time without a BL at least
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Gfs truck has been a nightmare...budget lift....removed coil spring spacers...scary @!*% right here...had to replace the springs
He had wires run thru holes in the front wall with no grommets and couldn't figure out y the fogs didn't work...no fish battery to switch to lights to ground...a wonder the truck didn't burn down. I pulled about 300' of unused, spliced in sites that I clipped and called good..also he did an awful bondo job...like 2" thick of bondo.
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Summit racing sells cheap steelies...I got my set of 5 for $250...gfs pathy has 33 x12.50s we have a 3" bl with a significant amount of fender trims on the front and adjusted wheel stops...it is a mall Crawler so we don't have to worry about tire rub off road yet..I've run 33x12.50s on mine for a while...areas I've rubbed:
Frame at tension rod mount
frame in front of front tire
Body at cab(fender is essentially trimmed to the cab
fenders in the middle (trimmed and comp cut now)
Rear fender well/frame
Rear fender
Here's about how much I trimmed off the rear
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U could always upfit the cam/crank pulleys to the round style and reduce your TB change frequency.
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Not this year...I'm still paying for last year...hellofa good time...I'm sure grandpax will be there...I'm sure steevo will be there....had a kick ass time...buncha great folks...me and a buddy drove from sc last may ended up trailering my @!*% home and we almost had to trailer his Heep back too....was getting horrible death wobble but an alignment in Arkansas fixed his issues...canyon lands is an alright campground but its in downtown...not really my idea of camping but after day 2 it was convienent and I drank enough at night that sleeping in a sleeepng bag for 6 nights didn't even matter...some folks will miss me and my preparation for me to break and being able to bail others out but I def bailed myself out the most
My biggest bailout was a gallon (and a gallon from my buddy) of antifreeze and Rescue Tape...he finished fins n things with a busted radiator upper tube
Josh and Kevin r awesome as well bunch of great folks all around...wish I was going back this year but truck is still broke from last may...
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Hit up steevo from rugged rocks...I did the 3" bl install on a 95 for him
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I ran my bumper with the bars in front of the lights and below and noticed a big difference on road (and off BC all of my hellas are still not wired)
Finding a welder: heycraigapp.com. welder....your email address....and city.craigslist.org....once u set it up click the li k in the confirmation email and it will automatically email you as soon as a listing posts with welder in it...I've been using it to find studded for the new house and its crazy how much crap is posted daily at a unbeatable price
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Adjust bump stops...I'm currently running 2" spacers BC i destroyed a set of 33-1250's from frame rub...there's a guy who sells yota spacers for 4 for $100 and they're at least 6061 t6( could have my temper wrong) but yotas are the only thing with a center bore big enough to clear our front hubs...only small annoyance is the yota studs are a different pitch but wasn't an issue for me
I was against spacers for the longest time but really I can only see a little faster bearing wear but I haven't experienced it yet
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Try some sea foam in ure oil...the gfs 95 was starved sometime before we got it...sea foam helped but under hard acceleration Its still ticking loud...my busy used to put a half can in his passport every oil change to knock down lifter noise
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And sure its gear oil and not regular oil from the valve cover or rear main seal?
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Its a pipe thread...tighten it a lil more....
stero install driving me nuts!
in The Garage
Posted
Yes should be on passenger side kick plate...panel by passengers right foot...the other is in the rear right hand side near the auto trans controller if u have an AT