FLApathy

Dude, just add it to the list of dumb things that you will do throughout working on any vehicle, it gets long after awhile. We all expirence it. Its all good in my book.

Sounds good to me man, looks like you have a plan. A few thing though, you shouldnt have to upgrade the ECU, id go with L&P Steering, and watch for the L&P Super Charger kit.

How many miles ya got on your pathy? I highly doubt the mounts will be bad. Heres what I would do.... 1) Jack the truck up on a hard flat surface, support with jackstands. 2) Remove front tire. 3) Untorque the torsion bars (you will know when they are untorqued because the adjusters will just fall and be able to move up and down, when they have torque on them they are pinned up) Also, you must mark the torsion bar so you know where to tighten it back to, dont mark on the rubber boot because it will probably move some time through out the entire process. 4) Remove tire rod end from spindle. 5) Remove the Auto/Manual hub (youre going to have to read the book and follow it to a T. Basicaly that allows you to be able to leave the CV axle in place while you take the spindle etc. off) 6) Remove caliper from spindle, secure it to the frame so the brake line doesnt get pulled. 7) Disconnect the lower ball joint. 8) Disconnect the upper ball joint, BE PREPARED BECAUSE NOTHING IS HOLDING THE SPINDLE AND BRAKE ROTOR ANYMORE. 9) Set aside the brake rotor and spindle (it should all be one peice) 10) Unbolt the nut on the compression rod. 11) Unbolt the compression rod from the lower control arm. 12) Replace bushings. 13) Put the compression back into the mount and put the nut back on. 14) Tighten the nut untill the bolt holes on the compression rod and lower control arm line up. 15) Install the bolts that bolt the lower control arm and compression rod together. Putting it back together is the same as taking it apart, just backwards. Im pretty sure thats how it goes, when I did I had to take my entire front end off the truck, including the axle. Im can do it without taking anything apart except for the compression rod but for a novice its good expirence and will probably be alot easier. Any older members feel free to chime in with opinions or to correct me. Oh yeah, its going to take some special tools for the hubs. What I do is just support the crap out of the entire spindle assembly and unbolt the compression rod from the lower control arm, then unbolt it from the frame mount, put the new bushings on then put it back through the frame mount and use the nut to pull the compression rod through to compress the bushings to allow the lower control arm to line up with the rod and bolt them together. Now, if you have never done this before I highly recommend doing it by the list above, the way I do it could really hurt you, if you have your arm or head in there and the spindle assembly moves, well you get the idea. So untill youre ok with doing it I would do it the 'right' way, not only that but the way I do it is a royal PITA.

No putting 3.0 heads on 3.3 block. The water passages do not line up, althoughs it possible to make them.

Just get a N/A 300Z VG30 and build it.

Yeah im in the same boat here, the only people that I can get anything other than dial up from are a bunch of $^@^ sucking @$$holes.

Yeah im not 100 percent sure either, I just looked on the part book I have and it calls it a tension rod. Strut rod just rings a bell though. I looked on Autozones website and they list a strut rod bushing but no compression rod or tension rod bushing, the strut rod bushing was about 15 bucks, but this is from my local store so I would print the picture that best shows the rod and drive on down to the to your local Autozone and ask them.

Actually I think they do they call them strut rods. WD21's dont have struts so thats all that could be left.

Very nice guys, thats going to help out alot, I was actually trying to find some pictures that an older member posted showing the where they mount the frame and how they had ovaled out. As you can see from the first two pics that JDpathy posted you can see big nut I was referring to and how theres two bushings per side. Edit: Im lucky enough to have my mounts still in a circle. And, as a warning to everybody, dont go airborne without adding some gusseting to the mounts or they will bend back, into your torsion bar, dont ask how I know.

Nice!! What other plans do you have for this truck?

LOL, im under age, WAY under age. But Mt Dew's will suffice.

I know that Autozone has them, I forget what they call them, either a tension rod or a compression rod. Either way most part stores should carry them. Also, if its not to expensive try getting a poly bushings, they are tighter and last longer but im sure they are much more expensive.

No problemo, let us know how everything goes.

In the yellow box you can see three, but theres only two that need to be torqued, let me show you... Also, you should check the compression rod bushings, they may be hard to tell if they are bad so my advice would be to back the HUGE nut on the compression rod off and pull the bushing off, that should tell you if they are bad, the hole they go through should be a circle, not an oval, BTW. If they are bad then go about replacing them, bascily what I just explained is about half of the removal process.

Junk Yard, cheapest IMO. Dont forget all the things youre going to need with it.

Yellow are the bolts that need to be torqued to 100 ft pounds. Red are the tension rods and pink are the bushings. Aslo the parts circled in blue are the torsion bars, not to be confused with the tension rods.

Well, my buddys call me Shrek. When I did my motor swap my driver's side inner CV had destroyed itself, to point of it not attaching to the diff anymore, so I just unbolted the LCA and upper ball joint and took the caliper off and lifted the entire thing and put it on my bench, so that was the CV shaft, outter CV, spindles, rotor, hub, and LCA. I aslo put it back on that way. And I think I know what you mean, the ball joint is inbetween the spindle and CV? I could go out and look but im eating, I will in second, though.

Heres my way off doing it.... 1) Jack the truck up and support on flat hard surface with jackstands. 2) Remove tire. 3) Remove ball joint cotter pin. 4) Remove the nut on the ball joint untill the bottom of the nut is even with the bottom of the threads. 5) Hit the ball joint nut with a rubber mallet until it pops loose from the spindle. 6) Remove ball joint nut the rest of the way. 7) Remove the four bolts holding the ball joint to the LCA. 8) Replace the ball joint and reassemble the oppisite of disassemble.

LOL, I was talking to poster of the thread, not you.

I see, cant wait to find out, these things arent prone to failure. Oh BTW, these are called hubs, lockers are things that lock your diff together, although I suppose you could get away with calling hubs lockers.

Slick got it, Superwinch doesnt make hubs for the second gen wd21. Slick, whatever happened to your diff?

I also have a myspace group called Nissan Trucks. And Oliver if you want to put 10 brownie points in your sig then by all means, lol.

PSP, recovery straps that STRETCH, chains, Hi-lift jack, and clevis's.

I can do it in the driveway on my 94 but they are totally different, still have tire rods etc., id have a shop do it. Driveway alignments are really only used in an emergancy and you really have to know what youre doing to do it, ive got it dead on once or twice but ive also made things worse.

when my truck is ready for off roading ill have a board of PSP cut in two.