Rick13

Yeah, just do that if you can press them out. We weren't able to remove mine...again, IIRC. I just know I had to make a run in the middle of install because of it.

Do you have this in the vendor section? Or did I miss it?

You'll need a sleeve (or bushing) that slides over the bolt on the upper mount on each side. You could probably take a shock and upper bolt from one side and look for something that fits well (both inner/outer diameter and length). Sorry, no pic's...kind of made it up as I went IIRC. Does that help, or did I miss the question?

Thanks, it's been a blast building this and I think it has plenty of life in it. I ended up buying a 2006 Toyota 4Runner V8 4WD Limited. I'll post pics if anyone cares.

Hope no one gets angry with me, but after 11 years of ownership, 7 years of 4-wheeling with it, I've found myself wanting something different. I think it's just time for me. It also doesn't hurt that my nephew is the one who wants to buy it. I'll be meeting him in Casper, WY in August and he'll home-base it from Billings, MT. Please don't press me on the subject, my wife already said she'll be watching me closely to see if I cry like a little girl when I hand over the keys and see it driving away. The cool thing is I just took it over Red Cone Pass (my favorite trail around here) and I have another trip with my popup trailer and some mild wheeling scheduled in a couple weeks... so I'm stil enjoying it just the way it is.

Try here (sorry, no direct linky from my mobile device): http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35056-any-home-made-snorkels/?hl=snorkel&do=findComment&comment=655906

I actually contacted Fluery a while back but he said he was no long making them...so there I went. I figured all vibrations/rattles/noises needed to go away before I put her up for sale in August.

I think the lower links would bind also with full compression/extension on each side. That would be another project that I'd like to make more like CNAM's. I always figured the "nubs" were bump stomps...that none of us lifted folks had to worry about.

Oh yeah, and these have been on since April (as a daily driver) and have wheeled Moab's Metal Masher and Moab Rim with amazing success last month.

I had seen that, but I didn't have the $ to invest that much in upper links. I think they look great and bet they function better than mine though. Here we go... I spent some quality time under an R50 at my favorite pick n pull and got these for $11/each (was that too much?): Then cleaned them up for modification: I love my $12 Hazard Frought grinder. A quality wire wheel does quick work: Then off to my friend's garage where I went to town cutting/grinding to get ready for him to weld (new bolt/nut) while I drilled/tapped for the zerk fitting: All welded and assembled with a little anti-seize on the threads until I could grease them up: I ended up purchasing some new bushings and having them pressed in at my friends shop. He did it for free cause he said it was a "fun challenge" - what? Apparently these are harder to remove than I thought they'd be, even after reading horror stories on here. Once I got them back I rattle-canned some flat black paint on them. A big thanks to Rob (Alkorahil) for catching an ordering mistake and getting the right number of bushings to me. And thanks for the coffee mug! I pulled the old ones off (the bushings didn't look so good on either side), measure/estimated length for realigning my driveshaft, and voila (aka "wa la"): I originally thought about putting the end with the zerk on the lower/axle side for ease of servicing, but I think I like the "gravity feed" of the greased end being higher. After driving just 1 day there is visible grease on the threads, almost no "play" in the nut/bolt interface, and I'm really happy. After looking at receipts and paying my friend $20 for his hour of TIG welding, I think these were just about $95 (not counting time at the JY or time prepping with the wire wheel). So the best part is the vibration is now non-existent.

So, I've got a couple friends who like to fab/weld on 3rd Gen T4R's and I really liked what some had done with their upper links. Their point was to allow the upper link to pivot/rotate and stop binding (and in some cases snapping) while doing some fairly moderate/hard core wheeling. My thought when seeing their creation was to copy the idea but allow for lengthening of the upper link to the point of better aligning the driveshaft/rear diff (pinion angle). Just know that I'm well aware of some of the arguements against what I have done, so please don't lecture me on driveshaft/angular mechanics and physics, I just wanted to reduce some stress on my rear/lower U-joint and see if my deceleration vibration (which was very slight) would go away and potentially get slightly more rear flex. Well, so far I'm very happy...I will post pics and soon as I get on a real computer:

I thought they were all stock height struts (except for some extended length ones from Australia). I had Rancho RSX struts for about 3-4 years and never really thought that much about them. Then I went to KYB for the last 3-4 years and thought they were better at not topping out so much...then I remembered that I definitely had a pair of settled in springs and had added over 50lbs of weight to the front end (so that's probably why I thought they rode so much softer/controlled). I think I spent a little less on the KYB's if that helps.

Have a safe and fun trip. PM me (and I'll give you my moble #) if you want to talk about what trails to run in the Rocky Mtns. Some are truly fun and beautiful, and not necessarily difficult. Just let me know.

That's my favorite tread pattern from TW tires...nice choice IMO. I thought it was based on the old GY MT/R though.