XPLORx4

That web site does not specify which Nissan models it fits. And I suspect that in this case "if they could get them" is the all-important issue.

Timing chains usually last the life of the engine. However, symptoms that the timing chain may need to be replaced (because it has stretched) are: clattering noise coming from the front of the engine and poor performance/driveability due to inaccurate valve timing.

To remove the cluster, you'll probably need to remove the lower dash and the steering wheel covers to get enough clearance. Then, you remove the screws holding on the cluster shroud, which should reveal the screws holding the cluster in place. Beyond that, it's primarily a matter of strategically maneuvering the cluster into a position that allows you to a) unplug the wiring harnesses on it and move it past the steering wheel. Good luck!

Get a GPS. You said the VSS works fine when hooked to a computer. Do you mean that you have an OBDII scanner that shows the VSS signal? Before you go replacing your instrument cluster, you should check the speedometer wire feeding the cluster. Have you ever installed any electrical goodies that required you to access behind the dash? Have you moved or cut any wires under there? I'm not sure if instrument clusters are legal to buy at salvage yards, but if your cluster is bad, you might try contacting a few Nissan salvage yards to see if you can get a replacement analog cluster. Here's a couple to try: ninfiniti.com autogator.com

I cut a notch about the size of a dime in one side of the diamond-shaped plate that covers the clutch opening to fit various wires through. Over the years, I had run so many different "hot" wires through there, I eventually had to grind away part of the bracket that secures the Transmission Control Module. Later, when I realized I had run so many heavy-gauge wires from the battery, I re-did the installation and ran a single 6AWG wire (with a 100-amp fuse) from the battery to under the dashboard. This large wire is now where I tap into for all of my accessories. I also continued to run this wire to the left rear compartment of the cargo area, where my roof lights and Alpine MRP F250 amp obtain "hot" power.

I would check the driver door lock mechanism and the wires or switches/contacts there that the alarm system uses. Or, you could just use the clicker instead of the key.

Wow, you guys are easy to please! I don't like how much "undercarriage" you can see. It doesn't look finished to me.

Unfortunately, no. The reason why the trailer hitch is so low and sticks out so much is because of the spare tire. The bumper would have to also stick out just as far and as low as a standard trailer hitch, negating any advantage the bumper provides. You can, however, opt out of the gas can mount.

My JWT charger has a fitting for that little hose, which is where mine is connected. I'm not sure what it's for.

The one I'm still working on may look better with the stock front end, depending on what color you choose to powdercoat it. (The space between the top and bottom tubes on the sides/corners will be covered by sheetmetal for a cleaner look.)

You're gonna want to plug up that extra vacuum line that you unplugged from the stock airbox.

Looks like a TJM T-13. As far as I know, they were only distributed in the Asia-Pacific market. I've seen only a couple of photos of JDM R50's with them.

Update. The tire carrier, jerry can holder, and latch are nearly done:

Think: lateral support. Detailed pics of the mounting method in this thread.

I don't see what off-roading or not has anything to do with how well this idea will work. Vibration is vibration, whether it's from rocks and washboard roads, or from freeway expansion joints and uneven pavement. I've driven on paved roads that are just as bumpy as unpaved roads, and in some cases are worse, due to the higher speeds associated with driving on pavement. If you just cut off the end of the MAF sensor holder, there will be no lip to prevent whatever is attached to it from slipping right off. Also, there's a screen on the front of the MAF holder that helps to even out the airflow so that the MAF gets a good "average" reading of the air being consumed. Honestly, I don't see the point of this anyway.

Great tip. I've usually adjusted toe by measuring from shoulder-to-shoulder of the front of the front tires and the back of the front tires. When the measurements are about the same, you're good to go. Of course, this technique doesn't help your camber and caster if they're out of spec.

Well, then you, of all people, have lots of extra money you can spend, eh?

It depends on the terrain you're driving on. With the stock low-range gears, it's super hard to finesse the clutch on very technical, rocky terrain. For rock-crawling with stock gears, an AT is best. If you replace the low-range gears with some of AC's or Calmini's crawler gears, then the 5-speed is much more pleasant to use.

Man, you guys are cheap! That's about what I paid in 1999 for my bumper. If you wanted cheap aftermarket parts, friends, you bought the wrong vehicle!

Well, considering that your OEM front bumper would cost about $600 to replace, the TJM isn't that bad. You gotta consider that this bumper is primarily for extreme off-roaders. It's really the only clean-looking option under $1000 if you want to install a winch.

Looks like all of our grumbling and noise and trying to get winch bumpers for our trucks piqued the interest of TJM: CLICK ME! Rock on! Dan, your prayers have been answered! Now's your chance to hop on the bandwagon! -bounce- :cool2:

Try Nissan-Only Wreckers: http://www.ninfiniti.com

Just be sure to keep O/D OFF when you're towing that load, keep your speed below 65 (preferably 55-60), and you should be fine. I towed a similar load 200 miles last winter without problems. You'll want to keep an eye on your temperature gauge. You can monitor your actual coolant temperature with a Scan-Gauge.

Here's the way I'd prioritize your list: 1. 4.6 gears (sitting in garage awaiting installation) 2. Sliders 3. AC coils 4. Pro Comp rear shocks 5. Front skid and transmission pan skid 6. Exhaust 7. Custom spacer lift

Good point about the drivetrain parts. It'll be a good idea to change your front and rear diff fluid, t-case fluid, and transmission fluid. The breather lines for those parts may have been submerged and allowed water to enter.