NavyP503

Good luck! Mine was stumbling on two cylinders and after the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and coil I was amazed how much better it ran. So hopefully that’s your issue.

Thanks for checking for me! I still haven't made it to the yards, maybe next weekend.

Does anyone know if the 240SX window amplifier will work for the WD21? Part number off mine is 28515-43G10. The part I'm looking at is 28515-38E00. I'll be hitting the junk yards up this week as well, just wondering if there are other years of Nissan's that will work. Thanks! http://navyp503.tumblr.com/post/121562289259/window-amplifier

Yeah, I'm sure there are other combinations that they wouldn't use as well.

It would be 4^8= 65,536 combinations. But i'm sure some are not used as in, all 8 positions with the same wafer, so it would be less. The 8*7*6.... is the number of combinations you can have with 8 distinct objects.

Where at in Colorado? I could help you take a look at it.

I had a J/Y speedo repaired and the ODO run forward to match my mileage when my speedo finally kicked the bucket. Cost about $100, but was worth it for me.

I was fairly impressed by mine as well, with how many miles are on a 20 year old vehicle. I had a 1994 Rodeo 2wd at one time and only got 13-15mpg.

004 I have the headlight guards too, but I didn't like the way they looked. I've cleaned up the wiring as well.

I was going to run completely new wire to the stock plugs, but couldn't find the correct crimped terminals anywhere. Good luck on the wiring!

I had the same thing happen to my '91. Replacement harness was $75 and they weren't even sure it was the right one. I just cut out the melted wire, spliced in new wire and put new wire loom on it.

+1 to being careful, broke my cable on the fourth or fifth time I had the cluster out. I just replaced my cable with one that had a metal end!

Thanks, I lived with it for about two years before I finally got fed up and bought a new solenoid.

That gear in my picture only disables the trip meters, but if it's part of the problem causing your odometer to be off it might fix that as well. Only way to tell is pull it out and take a look at the gears, see if everything is meshing right and there are no teeth missing.

Finally got the connector and cleaned up the wiring. IMG_0915 IMG_0916

To fix the rattling I pulled the speedometer out of the cluster and was able to get the offending gear out of the speedometer, it meant my trip meters wouldn't work at all. If that's what is causing your odometer problem too it should fix that. Sorry I don't have a picture of the internals, but this is the gear that connects the odometer to the tripmeters. IMG_0750 by josh42_98, on Flickr

The speedo on my '91 had the trip meters fail because of the gear that links the odometer to the trip meters has a little plastic clip that holds it in place that broke. My odometer still logged correct mileage though. Maybe that gear is being bound some how and preventing the odometer from reading correctly as well. The speedometer isn't too difficult to remove from the cluster, you can at least get a look at all the gearing to see if anything is out of whack or missing teeth.

Took my daughter on her first ride in the Pathy, 3 weeks old.

That seems to be the most common problem, I would check any loose wire harnesses as well if the brake fluid doesn't fix it.

I bet it's the same as my '91, on the latch for the rear hatch there is a switch that gets pushed back when the door is closed. Over time it doesn't push back far enough making the door think it is always open. This means the light will stay on no matter if the light switch is in the 'ON' or 'Door' position. If the rear light only turns on when the rear hatch is open, it sounds like the switch in the latch works. If the light doesn't turn on when the switch is moved to the 'ON' position it sounds like switch on the light itself is messed up. Here's a picture of the switch on the latch. That black lead attaches to a tab at the bottom of that spring, grounding the circuit to turn the light on. IMG_3414 by josh42_98, on Flickr

The other common problem with dome lights is the hatch switch, it fails and makes both front and rear lights stay on all the time. Good luck!

On my '91 the drivers side door switch has two contacts, one for the dome light and one for the buzzer.

Stock '91 with 31" I average 18, 24 on the high side (love coming down from the mountains ) and about 14 on a bad day (going up the mountain). Plain old city driving is right at 18mpg.