mws

Yup. Anyway you can get the truck to lean over will work.

Stay away or just inspect before you buy. My '87 and '88 are both 100% rust free. I know the '87 was 100% California owned and driven, and I think the '88 was as well.

Hmmm... If a window is at all stressed, it can sponaneously shatter for no apparent reason. Blazerettes and Bronco II's were famous for the rear windows doing that. When you go to install a new one, inspect the mounting channels and monitor how well it goes in. If it is not "floating", then stress will be present. One good road shock or thermal shock can pop it.

I strongly suggest seriously testing it before you need to trust it. If the build quality and reliability is sub-par, it would be better to discover at home. I will mention Summit is still selling their private label T-Max winches starting at $390 for a 6500 lb unit, and $450 for a real 9000 lb unit.... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku

Or steak and salad... PS - I didn't intend to scream that he should get a WD. I was just sharing my decision. You and Pezzy have clearly proven the R50 can do pretty much do anything a WD21 can. Just requires different things to be done.

Correct. But I do not see the logic in comparing a stock IFS to a custom SA and making any relevant conclusions. I brought up SCORE trucks as I feel it would be more relevant to compare CUSTOM IFS to CUSTOM SA's. Most of the STOCK SA's I've seen are also pretty limited in flex and compliance, much like STOCK IFS's. There are some stock SA's that are have more capability, but then again, there are some stock IFS's that have more, but I don't think I dare mention any names. Bottom line: EITHER one can be made to do much more if you're willing to invest in the design and execution. IFS is relatively new to the hardcore world so it is not as popular, but give it time. And I agree that the AC pages are better for irrational arguments and comparing apples to rhinoceroses and claiming the results mean something. Personally, I don't find much value in that.

Check out Rock Auto as well. If you haven't learned yet, E-Bay is not the place to get the proper parts at the fairest prices...

I tipped my truck to fill. As I recall, I lifted the passenger side about 16" and it was plenty.... Just lifted until I could put a couple cinder blocks under the tires.

NGK makes the plugs for Nissan (they are the OE supplier). Part of the OE contract is that Nissan packages the parts in their packaging. Sometimes they have the OE manufacturer "private label" the part with a Nissan logo, sometimes not. There are many, many parts that Nissan does not personally make. Electronics, tires, wheels, filters, hoses, etc.

I'm with '88 - Drain the fluid, refill with synthetic GL-4, add the extra quart, and drive it. If the oil had never been changed, your shifting will get markedly better, and with good oil, the bearing whine will likely stop getting worse. My '87 whined from the day I bought it 'til now.... But never got any worse after topping off with Redline.

Are they the "lego" style aluminum, or base model steel?

Which one was better maintained? Pick the one with the better owner! Go with the one that has the better maintenance records. If well taken care of, either is good to go for many more miles. If ignored and driven hard, either could have one foot in the grave...

Did you bleed off the air after installing the hose?

I concur. I chose to go pre-90 as they are incredibly cheap and I am capable of doing all my own repairs. I could buy the truck AND a whole slew of brand new nice parts for less than $5K.... I would not hesitate to try anything with my rig now...

So now you got 16 balls down there, eh? That oughta confuse the heck out of any tweakers trying to steal your truck!

Do you have steel or aluminum wheels? If steel, you have room to get all kinds of tools on them.

Yup, that proves it. A fully custom, high dollar SA designed for max articulation will flex more than a bone stock IFS not designed for max articulation. Next, which is more manueverable? An F-16 or a 747?

IFS offers far superior (and safer) handling and control. It also provides greater ground clearance 99% of the time. IMHO, the only real advantages SA offers are how easy and relatively inexpensive they are to implement radical lifts, and how difficult it is to screw up the geometries. Hence, they are relatively bubba proof and the only real option for the knuckle dragging element of our sport. Some claim they offer some benefits in extreme rock crawling, but I am far from convinced. I remain confident that it is just a matter of someone technically skilled enough (and financially supported enough!) doing it to prove IFS can kick butt there as well. One only needs to look at the technogical paths of baja racing and stadium racing to see the advantages IS offers. I've said it before and I'll say it again: 20 years from now, SA's will be categorized with tiller steering, non-pneumatic tires on wooden wheels, vacuum windshield wipers, drum brakes, 6 volt DC generators, points ignition systems, and carburetors. A technology whose time came and went a looooong time ago. And good riddance!

Dammit, don't cloud the issue with facts!!!

Minor gouging will be fine. But try keep it to a minimum, since if it gets too deep or too long, it will let super hot exhaust gasses seep some distance under the exhaust gasket and will start burning it out.

I have not had to replace any fuel injectors in any of my Nissans. 1990 240SX 2000 Maxima 1987 Pathy (TBI) 1988 Pathy (TBI) They have all proven to be extremely low dollar/mile to maintain. Just out of curiosity, what kind of gas do you use? All MPFI engines are sensitive to low grade (dirty) generic fuels. As a rule, I always use name brands.

Absolutely possible! I'd estimate at least 98% of the repairs are done with the heads in place. Sometimes, there may be enough nubbin left to use vice grips. If not, you will have a little more work ahead of you. Having a body lift makes access easier. If no body lift, consider removing a few bolts and jacking the front of the body up. Otherwise, a right angle drill adapter will be needed, or try the dremel and a right angle screwdriver. The slotted head approach will work quite well if the stud is at or slightly above the surface. I've done that many times on other projects, and will ALWAYS use that approach before trying an EZ Break (commercial name: EZ out). One tip: If it doesn't unscrew easily, get a manual impact driver - the type you whack with a hammer. They come with screwdriver bits and really make a difference. My personal favorite approaches: If above surface: Vice grips If barely above or flush: Dremel If below surface: Reverse drill bit And if all else fails, try the square type EZ Break with the expectation it will fail and the head will need to be pulled. I won't try the screw type EZ Break unless I've already scheduled an appointment with the EDM guy... And don't forget the PB Blaster! Letting them soak for a few hours is far and away the most important step!

I've always had positive results from increasing air flow to the airboxes of my vehicles. They are almost always restricted (sometimes severely) in order to meet noise requirements. One key to keep in mind: Make sure the additional opening is drawing cool fresh air, and not hot underhood air.

That, in a nutshell, is the only negative to how robust and reliable these engines are. No demand = no supply.