AK9849cy

Off we go again for another week of fun with all the Nissan forum folks that show. Nothing but good clean fun!

I try to make it to the speaker without a splice. Even then I zip tie the wire to the speaker somehow so the connectors are not holding the weight of the wire. One more thing to vibrate free...

I got a laugh out of those nuts too... a guy goes out and spends over 200 bucks on speakers... then uses wire nuts? For me that old factory wiring is due to retire. Time for some newer updated copper to do the job.

The last owner had installed some really descent speakers... however the 6x9 units in the rear were so deep they pushed out against the body panel. So I made some 1/4 inch spacers to alleviate the problem. It should also make the mount job stiffer in general.. thus providing a little better sound. Can see where the magnet was rubbing.. Spacer from 1/4 inch plate... made to it will fit inside the interior panel when it is reinstalled. Mounted up.. Just enough... Body panel snapped into place...

Rear fender flare mocked up...

Ya.. it is hard to get two inches lower with this style. A guy could possibly make and external mounting type unit. The external would however need some type of sleeve inside the stock panhard mount. Otherwise the factory mount would have a good chance of slowly crushing under pressure.

Yes

Take care while looking at those Ford axles.. there were some HP units with a closed knuckle kingpin kinda deal too.. Just say no! Some of the years came with drum brakes... they have weak shafts but the housing is exactly like the later disk units.. so that can be done. Just switch out the shafts and outer knuckles...

The 78-9 will not work.. it has the crazy cast outer wedges that can't be taken off.

The calculator takes so many things in... the tire size.. tire size with weight on wheels to center of hub.. it goes on and on..

You can... but it still wags back and forth...

I would recommend a pan hard bar. Less joint wear and play...

Remember my rig will have a one inch lift... anything different will throw the numbers off. Matter of fact I did the setup for no lift knowing there is a Dana 44 out back ready to go that will be put in there on a later date. The mounts on the axle will all be moved up to match how much lift it really ends up being thus the links will end up being the same angle. The angle of the links is crucial.. how they work together and where the extended lines of the links intersect compared to the CG and wheelbase is the name of the game. This rig is made to be a Swiss army knife type setup. It will do everything good but nothing perfect thus making it a daily driver that will hit the trails without worry. It is not a rock crawler by any sort of the imagination.. that is the other vehicle in my driveway. So what is your plan? How much lift you going to run? Long Arms?

Would this be for an R50?... cause it would be completely different.

Are you thinking on modifying your arms?

I ran this through a 4 link calculator.. 90% Anti Squat and much more travel out of the rear links without a ton of cash spent. The upper arms are mounted at an angle... so being they are longer they will not mount in the same place (they are closer to the frame). The tube under that mount is dented in for clearance... so you can't just move the stock brackets around at will. I will probably not do this mod again.. was just trying to see how much I could get for how little.. it turned out to be exactly what I was after.

Made a receiver hitch and welded it directly in the frame. The tube bumper does not support the hitch in any way... Now it is time to finish capping off the bumper...

If it is a vacuum disco... it is the wrong unit.

Yes, So basically the wheel well comes straight out to the rear fender rather than dipping back down to the fender lip like it once did. The paint around the edge gets burn by tack welding it back together. However it gets covered by the fender flare material so you can't tell it has been painted again. This is also the reason a 2 door was used this time. In order to cut this deep into the fender on a 4 door a person would have to mess with the door.

picking at the bumper still... The last wheel-well to get raised 2 1/2 inches...

Receiver and other items to go... Now that the bumper support is known... the fender trim job can be patched up.

Had nothing to do for a couple minutes...