GrimGreg
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Posts posted by GrimGreg
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Now, with some matching seat covers, those would look sweet.
Actually going to change the rest of the interior to match those.
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First pic shows a comparison of old and new
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It was a 90 Maxima I think, at least an early 90s model. I looked at a couple different ones today, can't remember that specific ones year though.
I'll see if I can get a pic up here in a minute. :type:
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You must've worn pants with BIG pockets... a must when visiting J/Y's... 
Those things just appeared in my tool box after I walked out the door sssh They checked the inside of my tool box when I walked out
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Hit the one "nice" yard in town today and spent $70 on a few odds and ends:
2 seats out of a Maxima $34 (allready installed in my 88 Pathy)
A pair of V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee springs $20
An interior top windsheild moulding $3
A map light from a 95 Pathy $5
Not charged for
:Gas cap holder (orange thingy)
Rear door ashtray
Front turn signal lens
2 stock rocker foglight switches
5 relays
Weather tight fuse holder
handfull of fuses
The Maxima seats weren't a direct swap, had to drill the floor and use new bolts but they fit nice and are much cushier than the flat Pathy buckets, not to mention they wrap around the sides a little bit and the drivers seat has extra adjustments on the seat bottom.
I was pissed though, a couple guys took the tension rods before I could get them off of the 95, they were pulling them when I got there
. Also, the rear brakes were a different set up than mine, so I couldn't get the strut I needed. -
twin turbos I have only seen in a 96+ engine bay.
Thats a first for me to hear about!
There was a thread on AC about it a couple times now. Some guy in Japan did it.
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Single turbo? That's been done, twin turbos I have only seen in a 96+ engine bay.
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The local one I usually hit charges $1, but it's a nice yard compared to the other mudholes, this one has gravel, and all the cars lined up all neat and in order.
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Nice! I still need to go J-yarding for some things, hope I can score like that.
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Nice 620s!
I knew a guy in Nor Cal that had a pretty nice one he was working on.
His looked a lot like this one you posted
But in much better condition. Had all kinds of trick mods on it.
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I got mine for $50 from the local junkyard. I've seen others sell for as much as $100, but it weighs too much to ship cheaply, as you might have guessed.
I've seen them go for $250 before, guess it just depends on supply and demand at the time.
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Super easy, just pull out the 4 bolts out of the upper and lower hinge bases. You will want to do something to fill the holes left in the body though. Removing it doesn't affect the rear much at all actually. My 93 didn't have one, but my 88 does. I took it off to clean it up, replace te pins and bushings in the hinges and repaint it. Haven't noticed any change without it aside from it not rattling (hence the pins and bushings).
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welp.. we'll be replacing the oil pump.
is it neccesary to bring in a cherry picker and lift the engine out to get to it?
Either that or take appart the front drivetrain and go from the bottom.
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Do you mean the key won't move in the ignition? The key or ignition lock tumblers are probably worn down. Try getting a new key made. If that doesn't help replace the ignition cylinder. Neither cost too much and are fairly simple to do.
Oh, if that's what he means then the key and cylinder might both be warn out. Mine acts funny sometimes also, but if I pull the key out and flip it over it usually works fine...
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Could be the brushes in the starter are worn out.
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Manual or automatic?
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It's the width that'll really add to the feel of lost HP. The wider the tire, the larger the contact patch on the ground, the more friction there is between the tire and the ground.
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Had a wire get bare and ground for my fuel pump, kept blowing fuses till I found the wire though.
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The only time I take mine off of AT is towing and when I'm offroad. Otherwise it'll kick in to power mode when I need it to anyway.
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Just buy the rubberized undercoatting spray and use it in place of theblack spray paint. It won't scratch or wear off as easily.
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All you have to do is pull the mounting base off of the front ends and trim back the end of the tube, it's just thin aluminum, the bases connect to the tubes with a single screw. The hardest part will be making the bottom of the mounts flatter, since there is more curve in the exterra roof in the front.
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All the button does is allow the tranny to shift into 4th gear (OD). If the button is switched off the tranny will only use 1st 2nd and 3rd gears. Unlike most American cars that have a seperate shifter position for OD, if you drive with the shifter in OD all the time on those, it will destroy their trannys.
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What's your other Pathy for, then? Hm? hehe
Didn't have it then ( year and a half ago)
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Awww, tears over bandwitdth.
That might fry the system!!! STOP IT!
See told ya, you cry and the board crashes
Salvage Yard SCORE!!!
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
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There was a Manic on the one here, but it was toast, and it took out the whole front end as usual.