Earth1

Nevermind... I've abandoned this idea in favor of a WD21 carrier. josh

Thanks anyway guys. I snuck up to one parked on my street and got the measurements I needed. It may just work. I may be putting a WD21 carrier on a 1st gen 4Runner body. I'm thinking with the carrier, new hinge pins/bushings, zerks and metal I should be able to do this for well under $100- much less than it would cost me to make a carrier arm for my bumper that I might not keep anyway. If I can make it work, I'll post up. Now to find one in decent condition for a good price... josh

Thanks... I'm looking at both. I think the r5o looks newer and I like that it maybe latches lower, but the mounts might be too close together to clear the lights on my Toyota. The wd21 carrier was my original plan, it matches the era of the truck better and is a little bigger for mounting crap to. I know mine was stout as hell too.

If anyone feels so inclined, bored or otherwise helpful, I'm thinking about using a Pathy tire carrier on another project. I need to find the measurements of: 1. hinge to hinge; bottom of top mount -to- top of bottom mount (where the tail lights are) 2. bottom of upper tube to the highest point of the latch plate 3. tube diameter 4. body corner (hinge side) to each mounting bolt on the strike plate thanks in advance!

I am looking into using a spare tire gate from an r50 for another project. I know they are not all that common, but I do have one potentially lined up. I'm not able to get the info I need right now, so I was wondering if anyone has one and is bored enough that they don't mind taking a pic/measurement? Specifically I'm looking for photos of: 1. the latch, strike/catch plate and entire mechanism (to see how it functions and where it is exactly) 2. a close up of the top of the hinge mount on the body (to see the body contour) and measurements for: 3. hinge to hinge; bottom of top mount -to- top of bottom mount (where the tail lights are) 4. bottom of upper tube to the highest point of the latch plate below the door 5. tube diameter Thanks in advance!

Nice. I just had one break off when I opened the hood with some ice on it. I was getting a new pair anyway, good o know they changed.

It's basically the same thing. Loosen the bolts all the way so the anchor is loose and twist the anchor a spline or two or three and tighten it back up.

Exhaust leak from broken manifold stud(s). There's a bunch of info about it on here somewhere.

POR-15 is the ultimate primer for preventing rust. Scrape/grind off as much rust as possible, use a phosphoric acid wash (converts rust) I use a product called "The Right Stuff" from Home Depot, then the POR-15. DON'T paint over rust... even microscopic oxidized pores will continue to rust under the paint. Tcase linkage is easy and you can find one at a junkyard, one of the boots is disposable and you may need a new one from Nissan or similar.

88 is the man. Till he gets that writeup up, here's my basic how to from another post, it may get you started or at least thinking in the right direction.

Good info here, try this: LINK I'm looking for Wd22 4.9s as well, I was told it was a straight swap like McClurgM said.

I still don't see why you can't get the stock tbars to lift. Did you take the tbar out of the anchor and move it over a couple of splines?

Glad to hear it's back in your hands. My Factory manual is pretty vague, which is really unusual. It just says to remove front shaft, loosen differential crossmember, loosen engine mounts and raise engine- it's in the way but shouldn't have to move much. It does get specific with torque specs and tightening order; you should probably get a manual. 5 bolts each on the CV's, 2 mounting the crossmember (1 for the bushing), 4 each on the motor mounts, a breather tube- I think like that's about it, maybe I'm forgetting something but it should be easy to tell what needs to come off. $175 for taking out 8 very easy to get to bolts sucks, took em like 5 minutes. I guess they were charging you for their time and keeping it at the shop. Check the hubs first, sounds like they're ok if you drove in 2WD though. Jack up the front, spin a front tire (in 2wd), if the front driveshaft mating flange on the back of the dif turns, you need new hubs cuz they're stuck. Both tires will probably turn since the dif is seized.

Ah yes. I'll look that one up and update it.

Start combing your local junkyards, I can get a front end for $65 here (you pull yards). You should be able to find one no problem. I could get you one for free here in CO, but shipping to the East coast would be cost prohibitive. Like Simon said (hehe) make sure the gears on the donor match, any year WD21 will work. Are you able to do the work yourself? If you can pull yours at home first, it will make stripping the donor easier at the yard since you'll be familiar with it. You actually won't end up spending that much if you can do it. You'll be glad you didn't abandon the pathy if you only end up spending two or three hundred.

It seems like one of the new parts could be faulty, maybe the new ignition, or a bad connection on the old wire? I did have a new set of wires with issues once, got a different set and worked just fine. Maybe it could be the timing? Have you cleared the codes and checked them again?

I guess you would be able to see the drive pinion turning on the dif. with the driveshaft out, there are only 8 bolts holding the drivesharft in place, hopefully that works. If the pinion (or more correctly the flange) moves while shifted into 2wd the hubs are stuck and the CVs have to come out to change the hubs to get on the road. If you need new hubs, you might want to just upgrade to manuals. Like mentioned, you can get them for about $100, replacement autos will probably cost more from a dealership. You need 27 spline hubs; Warn, MileMarker, Superwinch, and a rare Dana are probably the only options. Simon, can you see anythhng turning in the dif through the input tube with the CVs out?

Maybe some custom progressive shocks? How high is the rear? Maybe some ProComps for a lifted JGC with the ends cut would work. I have ProComps and the ride is fairly stiff, more than stock Nissan and stock JGC, but probably not as much as the ford coils. I think shortening them definatley made them stiffer. Go join and talk to the guys at RoninWheelers.com There are quite a few SAS there and they have tried a lot of different setups. AKCY98... from here is Ryan Gee over there. I know he's done some experimenting.

I hate to ask stupid ?s but are the plugs gapped right and all the wires in the right spot? Could the dist be defective?

Do you know what needs replaced? Is the ride harsh and sloppy? Nasty sounds? You can diagnose the steering, wheel bearings, CVs, and bushings just by jacking it up and checking things out. If you don't have the time to do it yourself, at least you can know what you're getting into before going to a shop, hit em armed. Labor could be really high for that job.

Don't let this discourage you into selling it. It really isn't too bad replacing the dif, certainly not worth starting over with a whole new rig. You may not find another wd21 with that kind of miles any time soon. Are we sure changing hubs will let the front spin? Assuming it's stuck in 4 because of damage to the auto hubs, another set of auto should hubs get him going. Here are my questions. How did it drive in 2wd? Is the thing taken apart? Is it driveable? I don't think you can tell if the dif is spining without looking inside. After hearing the "front rear" thing and "it's not worth it" and not knowing how to find the gear ratio, it really sounds like these guys don't know what the hell they're doing. Most shops wouldn't assume the liability of used junkyard parts, that could be another red flag. 260 miles sounds like towing will cost a fortune. Maybe there's a member in that area that can help you get it out of there? Or a local 4x4 club? Someone from that area should be able to help you find a trustworthy mechanic or at least vouch for that shop or not.

I wish I had you're setup to compare with mine, side by side. I have Thorelys, 2.5", magnaflow HF cat and muffler. I've always been curious how different they sound. I've tried to record the sound, but clips aren't accurate and pointless IMO. Mine does get a little loud sometimes. Maybe soundproofing is the answer. Those headers really resonate.

I dare you to try to break a torsion bar. Not saying it doesn't happen, but not common. It's way more likely the anchor will strip first; I've stripped 3 (stock tbars), and a guy I was wheeling with this weekend just stripped one. Yeah re-indexing is just like you said, the anchor will be lower than the crossmember until you tighten it. There have been endless debates about plugs, but I like NGK. That's what about all Jap mech's use. I can't tell a difference with the high $ ones. The plug wires are definately worth it, NGK too, 8mm. K&N yes 0x sensor yes Pacesettters, can't speak for them. I have Thorleys and am totally happy. I use the K&N oil filters and Mobil 1 synth. Those filters are high quality. You should look into using a K&N hp3003, for a ford application (bigger, more capacity) but it should have the same threads. Magnaflow is another product I use. I have their cat and muffler, sound great... Still sounds Japanese but deeper than a ricer. If you have stock steering, skip the stabilizer. Hubs aren't one of the first mods I'd do, Warns are the standard though. If you're doing this to wheel, I would consider steering and a rear locker as my first mods. That will get you by more Jeeps than anything. A lift will help a lot too; bigger tires are nice.

Get your truck out of that shop. Pay and cut your loses. You should be able shift into 2wd and drive it home assuming there was no fire damage to the electrical. Hopefully they haven't taken it apart yet. Did you drive it to the shop in 2WD? I wouldn't let those asses touch my rig. If you are able to do the work yourself a JY dif shouldn't be more than $100. If you were nearer Colorado there are guys all over with SAS that would give you one already out. Good luck. Just my opinion, but if the roads are good enough to go 45 MPH you shouldn't need 4WD.

Yikes. That sounds really scary. I've never heard of a differential catching on fire. Are they sure that's all that is damaged? Are any lines or wires or anything else damaged? How fast were you going in 4wheel? Was the dif leaking? The only way it could get hot enough to burn is if the thing was bone dry. A dif wouldn't cost much from a junkyard, but unfortunately since you are stuck on the road that repair is likely gonna be spendy. Keep us posted and let us know what those guys are gonna charge you. A ruined dif is no reason to junk a 95 with 85K on it. I hope you're not at some shady shop, sucks man. I would start calling around and getting estimates to make sure they aren't gonna try and screw you.