veilside180sx

The SBC is actually more compact than the VG30DETT, therefore easier to stuff in there.

The VTC (not VVL or VVT) on the VG30DETT and S14 SR only adjust the intake cam timing. The only motor in that genre/time frame that had true VVT or VVL (variable valve lift) as Nissan calls it, was the SR20VE/SR16VE.

Thankfully, I have no issues with you disagreeing.=) I have yet to decide what I will eventually do to power mine.

I'm well aware of what you are saying. I see this in the KA as well. The SOHC due to the single large exhaust valve, flows better down low due to increased velocity than the DE. It's the difference between sucking through two straws vs one large. Obviously the higher up in the range you go, the DOHC will become more effective.

I honestly don't see the point. It's hard enough to find room in the WD engine bay for one turbo...let alone two tiny T too small's. The DOHC in this application isn't necessarily going to help much, as the SOHC many times will flow better down low (where we need it) To each his own, and good luck with it. I'd settle for having room to stuff a single 50 trim in and call it a day w/o having to use a stupid oil pump to get it back in the pan.

PM sent for JGC springs

Don't get me started on those screw balls. Feel free to search around on sr20forum.com and you'll see all the stuff they've screwed up. An SR is not necessarily difficult (not much different than in an S chassis), but there is no reason to give up the torque you would be with a square 2.0 vs 2.4 with a long stroke. JGS KA D21 dyno at 7psi

Would be stupid to swap a KA with a SR in a D21/WD21. The KA with it's larger displacement makes considerably more torque and spools the turbo faster.

Yes, you'll need a press to be able to install the wheel bearings.

I had the exact same issue. Had to ovalize it, and cut off a corner to make it work. Next time around...I'll just make my own from scratch.

'94 201k and counting.

I-10 is definately FLAT.

Nissan ecu's don't like piggy back's. The self learning features will typically negate a good deal of any changes you would make anyway. Almost all piggy backs alter the maf voltage to make adjustments which throws off the timing curve. Reflashing the ecu is the best practice, but still requires someone with competence to have set it up.

Just find a 3.3 shortblock, then don't have to worry about that.

The SR wouldn't be my first choice for the heavy Pathfinder. There just isn't enough torque for hauling around a 3800 lb rig w/o getting higher into the powerband frequently. It'll easily make the power, but you'll more than likely get annoyed having to rev it out all the time. (this coming from someone that has owned over 25 SR powered vehicles) Your money would be much better spent just having someone build a single turbo setup for your existing VG. Something with a small/mid size T3, or 50 trim would be perfect for it. It would offer good spool, plenty of power, and the top end if wanted. I've been debating doing this, or keeping it NA with the 3.4L build.

The 5000's are not charged. At least the 5000's I just installed tonight were not. They worked just fine once installed.=) I'm very pleased with the rears, and expect I will be when I get time to put the fronts on as well.

There's not enough air space under the front seats to properly mount an amp IMO. On the back of the rear seat is about the best place I've found so far in side this vehicle.

Thanks for the advice.

Thanks I appreciate the reply.

Welcome to the band wagon.

Observations is all. Difference of mentalities takes getting used to. Not hard to have a clutch that will hold 480 lb ft on a V6/V8 size pressure plate though. Two obvious differences. 1. My Sentra has a cable clutch vs. hydraulic 2. Your V8 has a much larger clutch disk and plate vs. the 225mm in my Sentra. Do you really want to go into this? The Sentra 6 puck I have is rated at 414 tq, which is just about 3 times what the stock one was meant for. Yours...is roughly twice stock. To my knowledge, the VH (at least not in the states, since it was only sold in the Q45) was never sold with anything other than an automatic, which means yours is already adapted to a different transmission. There by making your comment irrelevant, but since I like to dig. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...p?Number=582663 Since this is a relatively rare swap from what I've seen, this must be yours. A 480 lb clutch on a Z32 trans (251mm disk) drives pretty soft anyway, with a clutch with that torque spec. It appears you have your panties in a bunch over my Sentra though. It helps if you keep in context where I'm coming from. I'm used to building a motor, and running whatever we have to...to put the power to the ground for a clutch. I've been working on 240SX and Sentra's for over a decade. These vehicles are the complete opposite...very little power is needed to do most SUV things. OP: Have you driven any other 5 spd Pathfinders to see if yours is more stiff than normal, or was it just a general observation of your vehicle? Has it degraded over time (pedal pressure increased over time)

Well...I can just as easily build up a pseudo cage that bolts on underneath the car, so the mounts are invisible. I think that's probably a waste of time though. Guess I'll look for a factory rack, and then build the basket.

I think this is really funny. The clutch pedal in my WD21 is soooo soft in comparison to the ACT in my Sentra that snaps cables every 6 months.

I can make one easily enough, I'm more worried about how to mount it. I was "hoping" to not have to drill holes in the roof if i don't absolutely have to.

I don't have a factory roof rack, so i'm going to have to work something up no matter what happens. Is 200 lbs the normal max load for these racks?