veilside180sx

All the C-Dales I listed were...every last one=)

There's not enough air space under the front seats to properly mount an amp IMO. On the back of the rear seat is about the best place I've found so far in side this vehicle.

I miss AZ mtn biking. There just isn't a lot of great single track up in NW Oregon. My last rides were... Cannondale Bad Boy with a XMO air fork and all XTR, Sram shifters, Mag V brakes Cannondale F2000 Team Frame Hardtail, Cross Max tubeless, XTR, Sram shifters, IRD Disc Cannondle Scalpel 2000 polished frame, Cross Roc tubless, XTR, Sram shifters, Hayes Disc Cannondale F2000 Team Frame Hardtail, Cross Roc tubeless, XTR, Sram shifters, Hayes Disc (different one...similar setup)

Thanks for the advice.

Thanks I appreciate the reply.

Welcome to the band wagon.

Observations is all. Difference of mentalities takes getting used to. Not hard to have a clutch that will hold 480 lb ft on a V6/V8 size pressure plate though. Two obvious differences. 1. My Sentra has a cable clutch vs. hydraulic 2. Your V8 has a much larger clutch disk and plate vs. the 225mm in my Sentra. Do you really want to go into this? The Sentra 6 puck I have is rated at 414 tq, which is just about 3 times what the stock one was meant for. Yours...is roughly twice stock. To my knowledge, the VH (at least not in the states, since it was only sold in the Q45) was never sold with anything other than an automatic, which means yours is already adapted to a different transmission. There by making your comment irrelevant, but since I like to dig. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...p?Number=582663 Since this is a relatively rare swap from what I've seen, this must be yours. A 480 lb clutch on a Z32 trans (251mm disk) drives pretty soft anyway, with a clutch with that torque spec. It appears you have your panties in a bunch over my Sentra though. It helps if you keep in context where I'm coming from. I'm used to building a motor, and running whatever we have to...to put the power to the ground for a clutch. I've been working on 240SX and Sentra's for over a decade. These vehicles are the complete opposite...very little power is needed to do most SUV things. OP: Have you driven any other 5 spd Pathfinders to see if yours is more stiff than normal, or was it just a general observation of your vehicle? Has it degraded over time (pedal pressure increased over time)

Well...I can just as easily build up a pseudo cage that bolts on underneath the car, so the mounts are invisible. I think that's probably a waste of time though. Guess I'll look for a factory rack, and then build the basket.

I think this is really funny. The clutch pedal in my WD21 is soooo soft in comparison to the ACT in my Sentra that snaps cables every 6 months.

I can make one easily enough, I'm more worried about how to mount it. I was "hoping" to not have to drill holes in the roof if i don't absolutely have to.

Unfortunately that has less than 20k on it...sooo...that's going to be awhile.=) I like the way you are thinking though...lol

I don't have a factory roof rack, so i'm going to have to work something up no matter what happens. Is 200 lbs the normal max load for these racks?

The only racks I've seen are mounted on the gutters, which I'm not that fond of. I think the two setups were both Yakima racks, from the details I could glean. Does anyone have something other than that mounted on their WD21? Ideally I'd like mine to have a ladder to get up on to the roof to access the equipment up there. I camp/fish/hike and it'd be nice to keep the equipment covered on top, rather than inside. If I store it inside then I can only take one other person. (I'm looking for ideas currently, but will build whatever I decide myself)

I had already looked over your progress=) I had been talking to Mike (from NPM) about his VG34 build for a while, so i think I've got most of the kinks ready to fly when I decide to do it. Unfortunately...my wife wants me to wait until the old one goes out (which could be never...lol)

You could use the Z31 turbo setup with the exception of the downpipe/turbo outlet really easily. I was considering doing that, but decided the 3.3/3.4 should be less hassle.

There is no reason to spend a bunch of money on one. Just pick up some tubing and a filter and make one. Unless your rig is ONLY driven on asphalt, I wouldn't put the filter down that low in the engine bay.

I'll take a look at the Rough Country UCA's as well. I may try to see if I can get a hold of a bushing from Noltec that fits the UCA. The squeek is is going to be common of all arms that have unlubricated poly bushings. Noltec uses a bushing that is kind of self lubricating by nature, so it doesn't tend to squeek like your typical poly (ES/Superpro) bushing. A trick we use on them for other applications (240SX/Sentra's) is to wrap the inserted piece with teflon plumbers tape. It will eventually wear out, but typically last for quite a while while keeping the squeeks to a minimum.

Doesn't hurt that I own a own/manage a couple of vbulletin based forums.=) I don't expect others to do something, that I wouldn't do myself.

IACV with brake cleaner. The fact that your car only does it when cold, would lead me more to the IACV than the maf. The maf is more susceptible to dirt than carbon buildup, since it's before the intake manifold and the air is flowing the other way through it. The maf is really easy to pull off. It's right next to the air box. The maf is basically a thermistor. The air flowing over it cools the thermistor down, and the ecu compensates based the reading. The more air that flows over it, the more fuel the ecu feeds through the injectors. Has your ecu thrown any codes? Do you happen to have a K&N filter, or another oil based filter element?

I'm Richard (veilside180sx). I have a WD21. I found the site while hunting around for idle arm fixes, because unfortunately I hosed mine while popping it out of a hole I dug it into. I've been driving/working on/modifying Nissan's since '96, and purchased the Pathy this year for towing my boat, hiking, fishing, camping, etc. Very little intentions of doing huge modifications, but I will do them as things wear out. I'm not big on replacing things with factory parts, if there are better parts on the market. Currently I need to replace the following: (ok, honestly only the rear shocks are blown, but I prefer to do it all at once) Shocks: Bilstein or Rancho 9000. I have Koni's on everything else I own, and I'm not going to rule those out until the card swipes either. AC doesn't have them included in a kit though. I like Bilstein's digressive valving, and know very little of Rancho's triple tube design. UCA: AC more than likely...I hear the same complaints about both the AC and Calmini for squeeking. I'll make one from scratch if I'm not happy with it. Springs: 3" lift Idle arm bracket: AC, I know the Calmini part is better built although this comes with the AC kit. Idle arm : Spicer Torsion bars: AC (again in the kit) Eventually I'll look for some more power...probably a VG33/34 build.

VG33 build or a small turbo setup would work fine.

193k here and runs like a champ.=)

To me what you are describing would be a bad maf (mass airflow sensor). The ecu is set to bypass the maf if it is not functioning properly and run in limp mode. The ecu is not capable of handling any load w/o it though, so it'll run rich and choke if you press the gas hard. The maf bypass setup would let the car run, but fall on it's face when the gas is pressed. It's basically just meant for limping home. The IACV is considered to not be functioning properly if the idle falls over 50 rpms outside it's specified range. These rarely go wrong, but do get a fair amount of carbon build up. If you remove the sensor there is two parts. Unbolt the electrical portion and clean the left over carbon build up out with brake cleaner.