dupersc

Awesome truck!

Mobil 1 synthetic is a good oil, I've been using it in 5w30 on my truck since the 3 oil change for 17 years. I started with 4-5k interval and now is 6-7k interval.

No, not the entire diff, just the LSD core only. I took it to the shop, they removed the open diff core and put in the lsd.

I did this to my 99 SE with XPLORx4's LSD a long time ago. Mine was open diff and Dean got a locker. I thought all Qx4 have LSD!

haha.. awesome.

Cool, thanks. I may spray paint them all black and now I may just leave them as is to play with others hahaha.

Long story short, I received my struts and one is black and one is silver Return and have the new one ship will take a week or so to get a match pair. Can I run one on each side? They are supposed to be the same right?

When I had the 2" lift, I only get rub at full lock on 15x8 AR-23 rims 31" AT tires. Now I'm back to stock springs and with 31" Falken tires (a bit smaller in dia then the GY AT tires), I get slightly rub at full lock too but not as much as with the lift. Btw, I removed the front mud flap.

Your rear bumper looks awesome Dean. I love to check it out sometime.

Could it be wheel bearings?

Looks really nice. Boy, those BFG Mudders look so good on black rims. :cool2: Where in CA are you?

What size are you running? The rear tire looks awefully small :o

Yes very true but speed wasn't what I was thinking. I was thinking more along the lines of fuel efficiency and usage. With the added weight, I'm just more concerned about any kind of noticeable fuel usages. :secret: Once you're start adding stuffs to it, fuel efficiency goes down the drain, hehe Roger's sliderz weights about 30-35 lbs each. So add that with a TJM, it's about the weight of a small person in front. I have some pics here They took a beating while offroad and held up fine. I have the "non-ultimate" version. ....

You might want to have a shop test fit 15" rims on your truck to see if they fit. Because yours came with 16" rims, the braks calibers might be too big for 15" rims. But someone replaced his 16" with 15" and it was really tight. ....

If you can't see it on Dean's site, you can see the pics here ....

Nice. What kind of Procomp shocks are they? Are they the MX adjustable? Why did you choose Procomp over others :confused: ....

Very nice... The Rover MT's look really good. :cool2: Why did you remove the fender flares? I wonder if they help lessen the rubbings. I'll probably get some 32" once my Procomp are worn but wondering if the flares will make it rub more when the rear stuff. ....

Did you use Nissan harness to hook up the lights? I have a Nissan harness wiring kit (I think) and the plugs look like they need to be plug into the rear lights plugs and run down to the hitch. There's a open plug (wiring) on the right of the spare tire that look like a pre-wired one but none of the plug from the harness fit it. Do you really have to remove the plastic rear panel, tap into both sides of the rearlights' plugs and run the wire down to the hitch? :confused: How did you connect to the prewired harness? ....

Some pictures would be nice. How thick are they? aluminum? I'd like to see some pics of how the oil pan is covered. ....

Samething with the R50. Press and pull out the locking harness. Twist and pull out the bulb. Becareful of not touching the bulb with your finger when installing though. It may lead to shorter life. ....

DJ_Dank :cool2: I just changed my tranny oil too. Changed it once at 45k miles to Mobil 1 and now at 91k I just replaced it again, also with Mobil 1. Smooth shifting now. Didn't feel like doing a full flush. If I keep doing changes with synthetic, I eventually get all the dino oil out right? Haven't done the belts yet (some of them show cracks). I'm planning to do them at the same time as the timing belt. Need to change the coolant though.. way over due ... -thnkboutit- ....

Do it in one swift motion from 4-hi to N to 4-lo. Stop the truck. Put the Tranny in N Pull the transfer leve to 4-hi Push it down and pull to N then follow through to 4-lo ... in one motion...... don't stop after N or hesitate otherwise you'll get the grin. Another way is to shut off the engine, enage 4-lo and start it up again... no noise ....

The Iridium plugs and new wires/caps really help. I highly recommend them. They actually give more power as DJ_Dank said, it's preppier at throttle and betterl gas mileage. On my first tank after the install, I drove almost (98%) stop and go with a lot of short trips and redlights. I got 250 miles until the light goes on. Normally it goes on at about 230 or so. I didn't have the actual gallons number in front of me but with the current tank (130 miles highway) I can tell the mileage is much better as I'm now at the 220 miles and I still have more than 1/4 tank left (rarely happens, perhaps when it was still stock). ....

The condensation from AC will cause mildew smell if you shutdown the engine while AC was still running. One best pratice is to shutdown AC right before you reach the destination and let the fan run on high for a few minutes to dry it up. Or you can shoot a few shots of Lysol in to the air vents under the wiper outside the windshield. Just make sure that AC is on at full blast and Recir button is off. You may have to do this a few times. ....

Hmmm.. maybe you didn't have it all the way in. :confused: You should be able to turn it about 1/4 turn each time. Then rotate the handle and start again. It'll be slow but after 5-6 turns or so you can feel that it's getting loose. If you were able to remove the other plugs fairly easy that means they are not seized in there. I'll say go lay on top of the engine and try again. You can do it ! ....