Leaderboard

The e-fans are popular because they free up a little power at high revs. But, yeah, there's more to go wrong, and you may struggle to move the same CFM as the clutch fan when you really need it.

Doing more research I see that the 1320 code relates to a bad signal from to the transistor or coil. Then I remember how the connection to the distributor would not click together so I taped it temporarily. Checking I noticed the connection was loose and I managed to get the connector to lock in which solved that no fire issue. I still was getting a P1705 and a P0120 and more research showed those codes are both related to the TPS connection. Well when I cleaned the throttle body that connection would not lock in either but it seemed to stay in place anyway. So I go to check it and sure enough it has backed out some. Just enough to lose signal it seems. I also managed to get it to snap together and now I have no codes. Taking it for a spin to warm the engine it seemed like it was back to normal but when I stopped and put it in park the idle was still a bit high, around 1200 or 1300 rpms. I think that may be due to me moving the TPS before so I will check that out later but at least she runs well now. Tomorrow it is supposed to be a nice day so besides firing up the grill I will see if I can straighten out the idle. Thanks a bunch Mrelcocko. I see you are on the east side of the state up around Knoxville. I am on the west side of the state north of memphis

No problem! @PathyDude17s channel has great info. There are additional options for front springs too like Dobinsons (which is what I have), as well as Ironman 4x4.

The Ignition signal p1320 is the distributor or a problem with it. Have you set the fast cam idle by chance? Also have you messed with any screws on the throttle body? I recommend downloading the EC section of the fsm to help you diagnose some of your problems as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like the above links are dead. Here's what I've got.