hbwb

update; I wound up replacing the TPS which helped but I started getting a code on the EGR as well as an O2 code on bank 1 second O2 sensor. I pulled the intake plenum and cleaned the idle control as well as the EGR valve and replaced the PCV valve. Now it runs like it should but I still get a code on the O2 sensor so I will check, and or replace, it and I should be done. Idle is back down to normal range now as well. Thanks to anyone who replied and helped. This is the end of this thread and maybe it helps someone else along the way.

I still get a P041 popping up and i cannot get the idle below about 1100 rpms. I think the TPS is bad. I did a volt check on it and tried resetting the TPS. Key on I set it to 0.46 volts and when i opened the throttle all the way it would not make it quite to 4 volts. (should be close to 5) With that initial setting the idle jumped to 1900 rpms so I adjusted it as far as it would go and the idle came back down to 1100. I then did another voltage check on it and was getting a negative value where it once showed 0.46. I decided to ignore the oxygen sensor code until I can get the idle straightened out as that could easily trigger the code. So I am ordering a new TPS and connectors as these are old, brittle and hard to work with. I will post back when things change back to normal. I am too stubborn to give up and have too much invested in this 348,000+ miles machine.

That's a nice looking ride. Just took a lil drive and now I am getting an oxygen sensor code. I forget the number but it is bank one, the second one which is behind the catalytic converter. Something else for me to trouble shoot. Btw I do not mess with facebook and never have.

Doing more research I see that the 1320 code relates to a bad signal from to the transistor or coil. Then I remember how the connection to the distributor would not click together so I taped it temporarily. Checking I noticed the connection was loose and I managed to get the connector to lock in which solved that no fire issue. I still was getting a P1705 and a P0120 and more research showed those codes are both related to the TPS connection. Well when I cleaned the throttle body that connection would not lock in either but it seemed to stay in place anyway. So I go to check it and sure enough it has backed out some. Just enough to lose signal it seems. I also managed to get it to snap together and now I have no codes. Taking it for a spin to warm the engine it seemed like it was back to normal but when I stopped and put it in park the idle was still a bit high, around 1200 or 1300 rpms. I think that may be due to me moving the TPS before so I will check that out later but at least she runs well now. Tomorrow it is supposed to be a nice day so besides firing up the grill I will see if I can straighten out the idle. Thanks a bunch Mrelcocko. I see you are on the east side of the state up around Knoxville. I am on the west side of the state north of memphis

I just went out and cleared the codes and it has the same issue which tells me it is likely in the distributor and not the ECM. It is still not showing a code after trying to start it which tells me it is likely mechanical. Yeah I did tinker with the fast idle cam after the idle speed was high once I cleaned the throttle body. I also found a couple vacuum leaks after I messed with the idle. Not sure I got those back to where they belong but first I need to get it firing again.

Almost forgot, I also am getting a P0420 which is an oxygen sensor code. It still shows up.

I posted a few months ago about changing the cam seals on my wife's 1999 Pathfinder. Well the pathfinder was running fine before doing that but not so much now. I decided to clean the throttle body and have had nothing but problems since. First I could not get the idle back down to normal. It stayed around 1500 rpm's or so with some surging thrown in for good measure. I tried the whole idle relearn thing about 50 times but never could make it work. Had a misfire on #6 which was due to an old spark plug I changed out and that took care of that. Then a misfire on #5 which came after a knock sensor code kept popping up. I noticed the distributor loose and the hole was stripped where the hold down bolt goes. I found another distributor hold down plate at my local u pull it wrecking yard which got rid of the knock sensor code. Are you with me so far? Anyway after all that the idle speed is still too high and now i am getting other codes like the P1705, a transmission code and a P0120 which is a TPS code. So I clear the codes and drive it down the road and back to warn the engine. Upon pulling in my driveway she dies and would not restart. So now it is also showing a P1320 which has to do with the ignition signal. Does this sound like the ECM might be going bad? I don't see how all these codes could suddenly pop up after no issues for many years save an oil leak which was taken care of. Oh for the good old days when cars did not have computers and a multitude of sensors.

No leaks but now it will not idle once engine is warmed up. Unhook the MAF sensor and it idles but plug it back in and she dies. Any ideas?

Well I got to thinking about what Startibartfast said and thought I'd take another look at the crankshaft seal. I mean the oil pump shouldn't just start leaking like that when it had not before. It was hard to get in close enough to see it well so I took a few pictures and looked at them. It seems the seal is buggered up at the top lip so I will be replacing it. Saved me some work I was not looking forward to by dropping the pan. So thanks a lot man. I sure am glad you replied and I will post again after I get the new seal in and put it all back together to let everyone know how it went.

It has been cold here and I am a bit of a sissy when it comes to cold weather so have not even attempted to mess with it. In my younger days sure but I am now 66 and do not like being out in the cold all that much. I looked over the seal as best as I could and did not see any damage. If it suddenly started passing more oil than all 3 seals did prior I would think there would be a great indication visible. Anyway I have decided to bite the bullet and go ahead and remove the oil pan which means removing the differential and all that. I got to thinking if I dropped the pan at all I would need to clean it and use new gaskets anyway or else I would likely just create another leak. The engine is fine sans the oil leak. My sis-in-law's dad bought it new then she got it from him later and my wife bought it from her about 10 years ago and it has not been abused or anything. I have put quite a bit of work into it over the years and have too much sweat invested in it to just walk away from it. Well I probably would if it was mine but it is the wife's so .....

Looking at the oil pump I see there are four oil pan bolts attached and a couple bolts that connect the pickup tube to the pump. Now it is a real pain to drop the oil pan as it is right above the differential. From videos I have seen the steering and differential has to come out to get the pan out. Seems I only have to drop the pan a couple inches to access the bolts to the pickup tube. Too bad there is not enough clearance for even that maneuver. What I am thinking is maybe I could lift the engine instead. Disconnecting the engine mounts and lifting the engine slightly for clearance seems doable. I have not had a chance to look it over closely yet to see how viable this approach may be. Ok so for anyone who has pulled an engine from one of these does that seem to make sense? Is there enough room up top to raise the engine a few inches without removing a bunch of stuff? Like I said I have not had a chance to look it over but getting some input from others might help me out here. Many thanks to all who took the time to look at this thread and especially any who give input of ideas. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Strato_54. I was watching a youtube video on removing the oil pan and saw the bottom of the oil pump. I believe they require the pan removal because of the pickup tube that is attached to the bottom of the oil pump. There doesn't seem to be any bolts n the bottom of the oil pump that bolts it on except the 4 bolts of the pan itself and the two bolts for the tube. I was thinking if I could drop the pan a couple inches I might be able to unhook the tube without having to totally remove the oil pan. Is there anything else inside the timing belt area that could cause an oil leak? When I put the seals in and checked it for leaks there was no leak detected until I drove it a bit and then it was leaking more than it did with the old seals. It's almost like the new seals created pressure that forced another leak but I can't see where it is coming from.

You are talking about the VGe 3.3 right? This item at the link is inside the front cover behind the harmonic balancer. https://partsology.com/products/oil-pump-infiniti-nissan-qx4-pathfinder-96-00-3-3l-op634-3?gclid=Cj0KCQiA37KbBhDgARIsAIzce15-akPFTO3b_XpBG-l_nONXWXeZWPB0k1Ay-ZvrTYzr-_0Ta1sC_S0aAjJFEALw_wcB

Ok so it has been leaking for some time and by the looks of it it looked to be the front seals, aka cam and crank seals. So i finally get on it and replace all three seals and the old ones were all hard as a rock. (hey it's only got 344800 miles on it) I wrapped it up today and checked under for leaks and nothing. The wife and I drive to the store which is about a mile away and oil is now leaking worse than before. I go back into it and the seals are dry but there is quite a bit of oi in there. Thinking maybe oil pump or is there something I am overlooking? Also to replace the oil pump do you have to drop the oil pan? I hope somebody can help me out with an answer. That would make my job a bit easier.

Greeting all from just north of Memphis Tn. Wife's path and i been wrenching on it a bit since she got it and now my water pump is leaking so googling i find i have to remove the timing belt. Also found this place so here i am. I am 61 and have been shade-treeing it since i was a teen, so to speak. I fix most all my junk and the '99 path is the newest vehicle we own. Swapped a belt out on a friend's about 15 years ago so know what is involved but man i did not want to have to do all that. A water pump is such a simple thing and this one is such a crummy design. Anyway enough rambling. Name's Paul, glad to meet you all.