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+1 on AC springs. I had them on a previous build (heavy duty set all around) which gave the truck somewhat 3" of lift supposedly. I measured before and after but of course the springs and shocks were still new and maybe still needed to "settle". When I had that set my shocks always bottomed out (or topped out [emoji2369]) when going a bit aggresive over (speed)bumps and my boots were tearing within a few months. Also at some point my front drive shaft developed some play and really vibrated the truck violently at certain speeds and the shocks compress. Removed and sold the springs and went back to stock ride hight (put in a set of A1 Cardones) and never had a torn boot since. That was at least 6y ago. Also have manual lockers on for about a year now. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

What's there to be pissed about? The point of hubs is to prevent the front drivetrain from creating load via the front wheels. The driveshaft spinning from residual drag from the t-case? The ATX uses clutches that don't fully disengage...it seems expected to me and is probably negligible overall. Keeping the driveshaft removed seems asinine to me because it's not the problem. Your boots are splitting because your AC springs are maxing out the suspension and causing the boots to always be stretched. This is also bad for the CV because of a significantly higher amount of oscillations than if it were flatter. Guys that have less/no lift or an SFD will always see less boot wear because their boots aren't constantly stretching out. The problem is the AC springs and nothing else.

I think it’s just a mis-box. I see it a couple times a year on random parts, most recently a few u-joints. Bought 5, 3 were correct, two incorrect...those two had a label on them that matched what I ordered, but the info they covered was correct for what was in the box. I also don’t rule out the possibility someone’s done a little switcharoo and returned the wrong part.

The part number appears right, but that's not the right spring and it's not going to work. R50 springs don't have pigtails, front or rear.

You guys are killing me. The notch for the prop rod is on the top edge, about 40% over from the left. It’s present on EVERY cover. The cutouts are for the other tire carrier. If you don’t have the rear mounted tire carrier, don’t buy this cover with cutouts. Buy the one without cutouts.

I guess I'm one of the fortunate ones with the part time 4wd then [emoji16] Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

If you reboot, somewhere there’s a thread about the Rockford boots. I know[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] has been using a pair of aftermarket CVs for years without a problem. They were from a local auto parts store & have a lifetime warranty. Recently, it was discovered that some of the aftermarket CVs do not have as large of a range of motion as the OEMs so read that thread. If you replace, I’d do both & keep your good one around as an emergency spare. You could also harvest an OEM from junkyard -@TowndawgR50 & I split a set for just that purpose on one of our R50 strips.

I've had that issue for years. Ever since I took a girl skiing in Tahoe, some time in 2004-2006 ish, and the Nissan got loaded down with snow and ice all over the underside, up into the wheel wells, doors etc. Doors and fuel door all got frozen shut. The fuel gauge always read high or low, and sometimes, the needle went way below low. It would never be in the 1/2 tank area. Not even 1/4 or 3/4 tank ish. Just recently I had the fuel pump and sending unit replaced, and my fuel gauge is reading correct now! I'm smiling so big to have it actually read around 1/2 tank again!