Leaderboard

This topic is probably going to have a lot of debate on it, but I'll cut to the point: not all R50 CVs are created equal, and one variation of them is prone to binding even in stock applications. I think this variation is undoubtedly the reason why there's such mixed opinions about the use of spacers and lift springs in regards to people busting CVs. Let's be clear up front on some things: Binding in this context is the inability for the CV to rotate smoothly, without restriction, when the suspension is at full droop (i.e., tire off the ground). We'll be talking about any severity of binding, as a CV shaft should always be able to rotate without binding. Without a doubt, spacers can contribute to binding because they move the wheel hub downward, causing the normal operating angle of the shaft to increase. There's obviously an upper limit to the amount of spacers that can be used. For the sake of argument, let's say 2" is maximum permissible spacer lift amount for a non-SFD truck. (@fleurys, please weigh in on your opinion here since you've probably sold hundreds of your spacers and will have more insight than anyone here.) No lift spring can cause binding, ever. The operating angle of a CV is strictly limited to the travel range of the wheel hub, which is directly limited to the compressed and extended lengths of the strut. The strut length is unaffected by a lift spring. I'm making the claim about CVs because we observed it first-hand over the weekend while working on @Rockit's and @R50JR's trucks. On Rockit's truck, we installed a 3" SFD and replaced OME MDs with HDs on OME struts. On R50JR's, we didn't change anything about his suspension, but he has OME HDs on KYB struts. Adding my truck to the mix, I have a 3" SFD with OME HDs on KYB struts. For apples-to-apples, @Stpickens's has the same exact setup as Rockit's. On Rockit's truck, we installed a pair of brand new Cardone 66-6185 (new, not remanufactured) CVs during the installation process. As we were starting to bolt everything back together, we noticed that both CVs were binding severely—guaranteed imminent failure. We debated whether it was the CV or the SFD, and I demonstrated that on my truck with a similar setup, I had no binding whatsoever. We eventually re-installed the original CVs and there was absolutely no binding. We also later confirmed that Stpicken's truck also had no binding. After taking a few measurements, we confirmed that the OME strut is about 1" longer than a KYB strut, which basically has the effect of having a 1" spacer. We then determined that the new Cardone CV would begin to bind at 19°, whereas the original CV reached 24° with no binding at the maximum droop. That 5° also equated to 1" of travel, since we also measured the distance between the rotor and the ground. On R50JR's truck, he had previously dealt with binding when he had a 1" spacer with the same KYB strut and OME HD spring. Even with the spacer removed, a very slight binding was still present. Coincidentally, the CV shaft shape looked exactly like the new Cardones. Neither of them looked like mine. This is definitive evidence that R50 CVs are definitely not the spec'd the same. I've speculated that it's related to the fact that early model R50s and QX4 (99 and earlier) had struts that were longer than later models (00 and after), and this is confirmed by several manufacturers (including OME and Rancho) producing struts of different lengths. However, the length change could simply be attributed to the two different strut mounts (aftermarket mounts include a spacer so the same mount can be used for either application.) If perhaps the longer struts on early models equated to a longer droop relative to the newer models with shorter struts, it would suggest that older CVs may have had a higher maximum operating angle than newer. As such, it would then be plausible that aftermarket manufacturers used the new CV dimensions and then applied the parts to the full 96-04 model range. That's my best guess at the moment. Also, we believe the issue is with the inner joint, not the outer because the binding occurred about every 120°, which coincides with the 3 bearing cups on the inner joint. As far as sensing binding, we put a screwdriver in the brake rotor slots and give it a slow turn. If there's binding, you'll feel it, but can also watch the front differential hangers shifting at the bushings. What does it mean for us? Well it means that, potentially, for all the people who have had binding or have broken CVs when using spacers up to 2" tall, the issue may have actually been the CVs the whole time. As noted, there's slight binding on R50JR's with KYB struts and no spacers...not factoring the lift he's getting from his springs, this is an extremely common OE replacement setup that should have absolutely no binding at droop. The main CV options are either OEM, aftermarket-new, or rebuilt. The problem here is that there's not usually any clear indicators of which is which, so there's not really good advice on which to buy. OEMs are presumably the best option to avoid this issue, but they can be very expensive ($550) though Nissan does have a "Value Advantage" part available ($150). Aftermarket ones are clearly less expensive, but if brand new Cardone ones aren't built to the same spec, you'd have to chance a rebuilt one being of one spec or another. At this point, we might need a lot of community input to see if we can determine who has, or had, binding with which CV and which setup before we can know which CVs to avoid. We may need to rely on physical appearance of parts since some brandings or p/ns might not be visible. I'm thinking it's best to list the following: CV brand and p/n (if known) Any markings on the shaft Your strut brand and p/n (stamped on the body) Spacer height (if any) Severity of binding on a 0-3 scale: 0 - no binding 1 - slight binding 2 - binding (can be overcome) 3 - severe binding (can be overcome with more force, or not at all) A picture of shaft Since strut p/ns vary by LH and RH side, it may help to include both if perhaps you've replaced struts and/or CVs separately and potentially have a mismatch (@notmeami). Copy/Paste template... CV Brand/PN: Markings: Strut Brand/PN: Spacers: Binding:

Hey guys so I picked up another R50 the other day. Only reason I bought it was because it was a manual and figured they were hard to find. It was also cheap imo and got it below $1000. The truck doesnt go into 4LO, any ideas? Maybe someone here even knows this vehicle. I have another build tread that Ive linked below and now I have to decide which one to actually use as my base. So far i have been just reconditioning the LE and have time to decide before the major mods. Anyone have experience they can share about off-roading both a manual and an auto? Which do you prefer? Here are some pictures.

Does sound like a windshield seal issue. Also check your sunroof drains, if it's got a sunroof. Should be one drain on either side, going down to the rocker panels. The cowl air intake is on the opposite side, like Mr. Reverse said, and it's also got a raised lip around it to keep water out. Wouldn't be a bad idea to check behind the blower motor resistors, though, they tend to accumulate sticks and leaves in there. And yeah, the A pillar trims just pop off. Hopefully the leak reveals itself once it's open.

Most common source for a leak like that is the windshield seal. The air intake for the HVAC system is in the cowl, but it is on the right side near the fender. You can remove the A pillar trim and the trim across the top pretty easily so you can see where the windshield is glued in. Have water running on the windshield and see if you can see just where it is leaking.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your ac is not working well at idle and you have all good components, you have an airflow issue. The clutch fan when fully locked will pull more air than any electric. Like OP did with the pipe insulation, there was some sort of foam @!*% there from the factory, but it degrades over the years and falls out.

In 2007, I was looking for a Jeep Cherokee and kept coming up short. Asking prices were too high, AC didn't work, and they weren't comfortable for someone over 6 feet tall. On the way home one evening after I was out looking, I came across this 2001 Pathfinder for sale and bought it that night. I drove it for 9 years, did a bunch of off roading, put nearly 100,000 miles on it, and then regrettably sold it, stupidly thinking I didn't need it anymore. I never was able to make it into what I wanted it to be, but it was always extremely reliable, comfortable, and I got a ton of use out of the cargo space in it. Earlier this year, I was bored and browsing Craigslist and found this 02 for sale nearby for $2800. 150k miles, super clean other than some small cosmetic issues and a little bit of interior wear. It has a factory LSD too! I bought it and spent the next few weeks hitting every junkyard in the area to fix all the little issues. I even found the factory Bose radio for it with a working 6 disc changer and tape deck. With the help of NPORA, I bought all the parts to lift it and overhauled the suspension. It's now sitting on OME springs (MD rear, HD front), KYB shocks/struts, and 265/70/16 Duratracs. It has a WD21 transfer case skid plate underneath and I installed Warn hubs, a CB radio, and a Yakima Load Warrior. I'd much prefer one of the lower profile roof racks in the pictures here, can anyone point me in the right direction to get one? I'm glad to have a good overlanding vehicle again. It's been a lot of fun putting it together. I've been a total lurker up to this point, but thank you all for the mountains of info I was able to dig through to get it to where it is now. Next mods are probably more skid plates and some rock sliders. I also have a buddy selling his 93 XE...so pretty soon I may have two Pathfinders!

No roof rack no spoiler Guess I’ll be trying my hand at painting the hood in the near future... unless I find a good one at the yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro